266XP Stud Bubba

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Okay, here is one for you all to debate.
Recently picked up a nice 266XP that came with an MS201T in a deal too good to pass up.
All in all the 266 is a good strong example- only drawback was some previous owner has done a Bubba to mount Stihl bars on the saw.
Not sure if it was intentional, or a home workshop make do for a saw that dropped one or both original studs and the owner thought it required a case split to replace them. That idea was put into the "too hard" basket and this is the result of the "fix".




So the front stud hole has been tapped for a bolt- which requires a 14mm spanner to remove- so does not fit a chainsaw scrench. Rear hole has some kind of possibly threaded in stud with a sleeve over that has been epoxied in place.




Removal of the bolt gives open access to the oil tank- so removal means unless saw is sitting in the correct orientation, oil tank empties to below stud hole level.




Rear "stud" to keep the bar from pivoting on the front bolt only.




So what is your solution?
Original bar studs (one of which was still in the oil tank- found by magnet fishing) almost friction fit to the threaded hole.
When viewed with a strong light from the oil tank filler cap- no rectangular head is visible at either stud hole- so guessing the back stud is not as snapped original with a sleeve over the stub remains to take it from D009 to D025.

So how would you deal with it?
Leave well alone?
Continue with one fixing point and Stihl bars?
Sell it to some other mug?
Remove the rear stud and JB Weld in some originals?
Have D009 type studs made to fit the threads of the front stud hole?
Swap out PTO case half for a good one?

What would you do if it were yours?

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

If it were mine Bob I'd machine up studs to suit

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

If it were mine Bob I'd machine up studs to suit

But one of the original studs was still in the oil tank and I have at least 20 original style studs...... and no lathe that spins metal.
If anyone guesses what that back "stud" was in its former life- they win a prize (I will send them the remains of that stud!)

 

[ballisticdoughnut]

I’d replace the case half if it were mine.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

I’d replace the case half if it were mine.

Yep, thats an option and if the saw was in need of a rebuild in the way of bearings and seals- certainly the way I would be looking- but it doesn't need bearings and seals, so it is a lot of added extra effort to strip it all down to bare bones to replace one case half and if you are going to do that you might as well add the expense of bearings, o rings, gaskets and seals while you are in there.

 

[ballisticdoughnut]

Can’t argue with you there. If your not running a very big bar you could get away with running it as-is until your ready to replace that case half. Just have to be a little more careful about it of course.

 

[Cantdog]

That sucks.....to bad........they probably FUBARed the fit of a stock stud.......so either run it as is or replace the case half are the options as I see it....

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

That sucks.....to bad........they probably FUBARed the fit of a stock stud.......so either run it as is or replace the case half are the options as I see it....

Can you explain more as to why these are the only options?
My guess is- over time and misuse the original studs worked loose in their press fit sockets- maybe one broke and fell out, but one was certainly still intact and still in the oil tank.
My guess is previous owners thought (or were told) the only way to fit new studs is to split the cases, fit the studs and rebuild the saw- that was placed in the too hard basket so they tapped the front hole to suit a bolt they had laying about and invented a short stud to stop the bar rotating on the front bolt.
As explained above- the saw does not need torn down for other reasons- so would prefer not to, plus I do not have a good PTO case side for a 61-272 in stock.

 

[Yukon Stihl]

I would modify stock studs so you could install the way they used to fit...
Maybe weld a few spot welds on them and file them down till they need to be driven into place.Then add metel JB Weld to the studs and drive them in from inside the tank.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

I would modify stock studs so you could install the way they used to fit...
Maybe weld a few spot welds on them and file them down till they need to be driven into place.Then add metel JB Weld to the studs and drive them in from inside the tank.

And the glory of that answer is- I have all that on hand (dot punch or cold chisel do as good a job as dobs of weld to expand the original studs a tad so they grab)- and it is pretty much exactly what I did- down to the added adhesion of some JB Weld.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Bit of tension while the JB sets up



View from the oil filler hole.

 

[huskihl]

That sucks.
You could drill and tap to a larger size and have threaded inserts made with center holes the exact size you need. Loctited in place. And then use original studs. Or have the holes welded shut and re-drilled. But that would require splitting the cases also

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

Bit of tension while the JB sets up

View attachment 1040537

View from the oil filler hole.

View attachment 1040538

Good job.

What ya reckon that corrosion is from?

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Good job.

What ya reckon that corrosion is from?

Anyones guess- if it has had "repairs" like the studs I just replaced, Lord knows what else it has had to endure.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

That sucks.
You could drill and tap to a larger size and have threaded inserts made with center holes the exact size you need. Loctited in place. And then use original studs. Or have the holes welded shut and re-drilled. But that would require splitting the cases also

You could- but the holes for original studs were not that far wallowed out- original studs still had a bit of a friction fit to the threaded hole and better (but not excellent) to the back hole which was not thread violated.
I was not about to go to a whole lot of trouble for a less than pristine old 266XP- its a fine old saw, but it is not "as new", was trying to eliminate added cost for minimal gain against simpler methods.

 

[Chainmale]

But one of the original studs was still in the oil tank and I have at least 20 original style studs...... and no lathe that spins metal.
If anyone guesses what that back "stud" was in its former life- they win a prize (I will send them the remains of that stud!)

Looks like a tiny brake piston

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

Anyones guess- if it has had "repairs" like the studs I just replaced, Lord knows what else it has had to endure.

How's the rest of the old girl look?

Quite liking the 266 only 1 thing annoys me. The trigger is narrow and gives a sore finger by the end of the day. Otherwise bloody good 20 inch saw

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Looks like a tiny brake piston

Nope.

 

[J D]

Almost looks like it could be a golf tee with the top of the head turned down...
Do we get to see a pic of it removed?

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Almost looks like it could be a golf tee with the top of the head turned down...
Do we get to see a pic of it removed?

Nope.