268xp advice

[GusGus2020]

Was given a 268xp - no background on it, covered in caked on bar oil/chips. Pulled the muffler to have a look at it and no scoring at all, looks like whoever was running it didn’t have any problems with it before it was retired. Kept cleaning and pulling it apart and after taking the oiler mechanism off, noticed the bearings had a nasty film on them. No play in them, though, and a little mix gas and they cleaned up nicely. I was thinking it at least needed the seals changed anyway. Kept going and pulled the cylinder - was in great shape - little bit of staining, but no scoring on anything.

Closed port Mahle cylinder, windowed piston - everything was looking good, so having not pressure or vac tested prior to tear down, I took a look at ring gap - needless to say, I’m guessing this is a bit too much?

Now, looking for suggestions and advice - I happen to have a Hyway 272 top end rebuild kit on hand, but I don’t know if it’s worth just getting a new ring, gasket, seals, etc and rebuilding it stock, or trying to get some better performance with the conversion. I’m hesitant to split the case and redo the bottom end - just clean it out really well and double check for play before putting it back together.

 

[Czed]

Was given a 268xp - no background on it, covered in caked on bar oil/chips. Pulled the muffler to have a look at it and no scoring at all, looks like whoever was running it didn’t have any problems with it before it was retired. Kept cleaning and pulling it apart and after taking the oiler mechanism off, noticed the bearings had a nasty film on them. View attachment 904946No play in them, though, and a little mix gas and they cleaned up nicely. I was thinking it at least needed the seals changed anyway. Kept going and pulled the cylinder - was in great shape - little bit of staining, but no scoring on anything. View attachment 904947

View attachment 904948Closed port Mahle cylinder, windowed piston - everything was looking good, so having not pressure or vac tested prior to tear down, I took a look at ring gap - needless to say, I’m guessing this is a bit too much?
View attachment 904949
Now, looking for suggestions and advice - I happen to have a Hyway 272 top end rebuild kit on hand, but I don’t know if it’s worth just getting a new ring, gasket, seals, etc and rebuilding it stock, or trying to get some better performance with the conversion. I’m hesitant to split the case and redo the bottom end - just clean it out really well and double check for play before putting it back together.

I'm liking the hyway 268 popup piston in a closed port mahle I use it all the time with a 24"
Personally I'd clean it thoroughly and refresh everything
If the bearings are tight run them.

 

[cranman1951]

I'm liking the hyway 268 popup piston in a closed port mahle I use it all the time with a 24"
Personally I'd clean it thoroughly and refresh everything
If the bearings are tight run them.

I kind of like this suggestion....I'm not sure about the popup though, even though I love the Hyway popups in my 359 and 350's. My 266 and 268 are so hard to pull over stock, I wonder how they'd be with a popup? Maybe just a new ring and clean, but the popup sounds like fun.

 

[GusGus2020]

I did have a non-xp 268 that I recently sold. It was a bear to pull over unless the piston was in the right spot. That was one of the appealing aspects of the 272 and having the decompression, but I am liking the idea of either just replacing the ring and piston right now. Gues I could get 2 rings and the popup if I go that route and have the stock one on hand in case I want to switch back.

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Check what the piston skirt to cylinder clearance is before you go changing it. If it’s within spec, then keep it. Stay OEM.

Those rings are way out of spec. The sound advice I have been given by the chaps on here is 0.1mm per 25mm obore diameter is a good place. Replace them when the ring end gap is 0.25mm per 25mm of bore or more.

Skirt to cylinder I’ll have to check my notes of what I was taught.

 

[Northerner]

New ring and run it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[GusGus2020]

Check what the piston skirt to cylinder clearance is before you go changing it. If it’s within spec, then keep it. Stay OEM.

Those rings are way out of spec. The sound advice I have been given by the chaps on here is 0.1mm per 25mm obore diameter is a good place. Replace them when the ring end gap is 0.25mm per 25mm of bore or more.

Skirt to cylinder I’ll have to check my notes of what I was taught.

Let me know if you find the spec - or if anyone else has it handy. If I can get away with not having to buy major components I’ll be happy right now. Guessing the recommendation for rings will be Caber?

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Let me know if you find the spec - or if anyone else has it handy. If I can get away with not having to buy major components I’ll be happy right now. Guessing the recommendation for rings will be Caber?

recommendation for rings will be OEM NOS

Skirt to wall clearance wear limit 0.13mm - 0.15mm

 

[Czed]

I kind of like this suggestion....I'm not sure about the popup though, even though I love the Hyway popups in my 359 and 350's. My 266 and 268 are so hard to pull over stock, I wonder how they'd be with a popup? Maybe just a new ring and clean, but the popup sounds like fun.

I have several stock 268s and this one walks all over them
It's not far behind my ported 266s and 268s
But I don't believe you'd like the hyway it increases the comp to a point it's a bit more difficult to pull over.
I'm immune to them my 220+
Ported 266
I can start easily
My friend caught it with his face when he tried to drop start it.
Nothing at all wrong with stock saws
I run them often.
Meteor 30+ dollar windowed 268 pistons in a 266 is a fine runner.
Oem pistons are north of 90.00 last I checked.

 

[Woodslasher]

Caber's are nice, I'd go with them or oem.

 

[grizz55chev]

Meteor piston, comes with Caber rings ( $40 ), New seals, clean , all new fuel and impulse rubber, run it like you stole it.

 

[GusGus2020]

Caber's are nice, I'd go with them or oem.

Good deal - we'll see what I can find. Got a husky dealer near me, so I'll check their price first.

Meteor piston, comes with Caber rings ( $40 ), New seals, clean , all new fuel and impulse rubber, run it like you stole it.

Impulse is through the intake block, correct? I was going to get a new one just to be on the safe side, too, with new oem gaskets if I can. I'm also thinking of doing the HD filter kit on it - can't find one for a good price anywhere except HL Supply - any opinions on the farmertec setup for the 272? I could tell that some particulates were getting by the stock box filter based on deposits on the air intake elbow before the carb when I was tearing it down. Don't want to take any chances, so a better air filter setup will be installed as a preventative measure for the future.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

A lot of people have no problem with Hyway pistons- probably the best option from that region and price factor.
A lot more people have no problems with Meteor pistons.
Caber rings are preferred by most as THE OEM replacement.

Some other people have an extraordinary amount of money invested in new old stock OEM combustion components that will never wear out sitting on a shelf- if that rocks your own boat, then do that.
If you want a saw that will run fine and cut wood- there are other options.

Orignal pistons will run until the skirt is damn near worn through and ring end gap is more critical at the thin end of the cylinder.

 

[grizz55chev]

Meteor piston, comes with Caber rings ( $40 ), New seals, clean , all new fuel and impulse rubber, run it like you stole it.

Stay with the OEM iug, it'll out live you. Polish it up with a green Scotch Brite, don't hone, you'll damage the nikasil coating.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

I think before I got around to offering up new top end parts to what you have- I would leave the rings off- bolt the cylinder back on and wash the exterior of the saw a bit with a solvent of your choice and compressed air- just so no more junk falls into the open case.
Then remove the cylinder and flush the inside of the case until the cows come home or the fines stop coming out. At some stage that saw has eaten a lot of fines and there is a lot of crud in the case- I would guess the bearings are pitted, but they might still be "tight", your choice on how far you go, but I think I would be splitting and replacing- however you may not be planning too hard of a life for the saw once up and running again and a flushed out bottom end might hold up for a good while yet.