Stihl 200T- OEM or aftermarket crank seals and bearings

[cookies]

They are 100% notorious for the intake boot ripping when a av mount fails, only use a oem intake boot!

 

[Mad Professor]

No up and down play, so don't think it needs bearings. I haven't bought crank bearings or seals yet since I may not need them. Taking my time with this build. I did buy the tool for seal installation just in case. One side of that tool fits the clutch side and the other side fits the flywheel side and looks like it has good surface contact for the whole face of the seal. Sound like you recommend the OEM seals over aftermarket. I was just going to leave the woodruff key out until I put the flywheel back on. Lots of opinions on aftermarket seals, but going OEM on any bearings and seals, but did replace the fuel tank with an aftermarket one. Appreciate the advice!! Thanks

Gasket kit with seals ,cost less than seals from Stihl.

 

[lone wolf]

Did all that, still screwed it up. Couldn't get it out with the seal puller...had to disassemble the case...again...

Not a real big deal to split the case, though.

 

[singinwoodwackr]

Not a real big deal to split the case, though.

True, just annoying

 

[lone wolf]

True, just annoying

It's the best way, it reduces any chance of scoring the cases where you pull or pry the seals out! As far as I am concerned, its the only way I will do them. Then it can be all cleaned and a new gasket installed . Best method I have found.

 

[capejwc]

You don't need to heat or freeze, just line everything up perfect and drive them squarely and carefully in. The seal tool is a good tool, use it, does it have the bullet shaped piece that goes over the end to keep the seals from tearing on the flywheel key? Are you sure it needs bearings, is there up and downplay on the crank ends or just side to side play? And I hope you didn't buy China knock off bearings ! Used OEM are better than China crap.

As long as I am asking dumb questions, do you use any sealant on the cylinder gasket? Not wanting to increase compression or check squish, just looking to have best seal.

 

[Husky77]

It's the best way, it reduces any chance of scoring the cases where you pull or pry the seals out! As far as I am concerned, its the only way I will do them. Then it can be all cleaned and a new gasket installed . Best method I have found.

If a jobs worth doing, it's worth doing proper

 

[capejwc]

As long as I am asking dumb questions, do you use any sealant on the cylinder gasket? Not wanting to increase compression or check squish, just looking to have best seal.

 

[lone wolf]

As long as I am asking dumb questions, do you use any sealant on the cylinder gasket? Not wanting to increase compression or check squish, just looking to have best seal.

Grease is perfect for a factory gasket, both sides. Dumb people I know don't ask many questions.

 

[lone wolf]

True, just annoying

What do you find annoying about it in particular? How long would you say it takes to pull the seals without the case split ?

 

[capejwc]

Grease is perfect for a factory gasket, both sides. Dumb people I know don't ask many questions.

I have references( used to be friends) that will swear that I am dumb!!

Thanks for the advice!!

 

[singinwoodwackr]

What do you find annoying about it in particular? How long would you say it takes to pull the seals without the case split ?

The last time I tried I couldn't get one out with the puller so gave up and split the case. Now I don't bother trying, just split it

 

[capejwc]

Finished product with new OEM cylinder and piston. Vacuum and pressure test with no leaks. Couple of other new parts plus bar and chain. Started right up and sound great. Will try it in some wood this week.

 

[super3]

020 crank seals are rubber and the same size

 

[lone wolf]

No up and down play, so don't think it needs bearings. I haven't bought crank bearings or seals yet since I may not need them. Taking my time with this build. I did buy the tool for seal installation just in case. One side of that tool fits the clutch side and the other side fits the flywheel side and looks like it has good surface contact for the whole face of the seal. Sound like you recommend the OEM seals over aftermarket. I was just going to leave the woodruff key out until I put the flywheel back on. Lots of opinions on aftermarket seals, but going OEM on any bearings and seals, but did replace the fuel tank with an aftermarket one. Appreciate the advice!! Thanks

Well is it done yet?

 

[capejwc]

Well is it done yet?

OOOPS!! Forgot to update and yes, it has been done for a while. Finally got it out to use if a few weeks ago and realized the carb was needing repaired/replaced. New carb (aftermarket) installed, but have not tried it out yet. I do plan to rebuild the OEM carb. The guy that gave it to me keeps hinting that he sure would like to have it back. He knows that it was a fair trade for the work I had been doing, but likes to mess with me a little!

 

[lone wolf]

OOOPS!! Forgot to update and yes, it has been done for a while. Finally got it out to use if a few weeks ago and realized the carb was needing repaired/replaced. New carb (aftermarket) installed, but have not tried it out yet. I do plan to rebuild the OEM carb. The guy that gave it to me keeps hinting that he sure would like to have it back. He knows that it was a fair trade for the work I had been doing, but likes to mess with me a little!

Buy a new OEM carb you have too much invested to play with crap carbs.

 

[capejwc]

Buy a new OEM carb you have too much invested to play with crap carbs.

Dang OEM carbs are so expensive, so stuck an aftermarket one on. Have replaced several aftermarket carbs on neighbors 200T saws at his request and had great luck so far. I can purchase 7 aftermarket carbs for the price of one OEM carb. Many of the aftermarket ones are Zama brand like the OEM ones.

I am not running my saw like a commercial tree person, so will not put the saw through as tough a test daily. If I find that aftermarket carb does not hold up, I will look at getting an OEM carb.

Your great advice is much appreciated, just trying to use my money wisely!!

 

[singinwoodwackr]

Dang OEM carbs are so expensive, so stuck an aftermarket one on. Have replaced several aftermarket carbs on neighbors 200T saws at his request and had great luck so far. I can purchase 7 aftermarket carbs for the price of one OEM carb. Many of the aftermarket ones are Zama brand like the OEM ones.

I am not running my saw like a commercial tree person, so will not put the saw through as tough a test daily. If I find that aftermarket carb does not hold up, I will look at getting an OEM carb.

Your great advice is much appreciated, just trying to use my money wisely!!

Sorry, but, $70 spent on an $800 saw is not expensive.

 

[lone wolf]

Dang OEM carbs are so expensive, so stuck an aftermarket one on. Have replaced several aftermarket carbs on neighbors 200T saws at his request and had great luck so far. I can purchase 7 aftermarket carbs for the price of one OEM carb. Many of the aftermarket ones are Zama brand like the OEM ones.

I am not running my saw like a commercial tree person, so will not put the saw through as tough a test daily. If I find that aftermarket carb does not hold up, I will look at getting an OEM carb.

Your great advice is much appreciated, just trying to use my money wisely!!

By all rights they should be around 60.00 not 90.00. Maybe I can help you fix that carb.