2nd Hand Saw

[sdt7618]

Got a 2nd hand 024 AVEQ wood boss a few days ago, great price, free!!

anyway have a number of questions that could do with some help with.

1. how many bar studs should it have, only has one, and some weird looking screw head and blanked on other side of cover. I thought these had two studs.

2. liked to the above it has a 14" bar, but stihl doesn't supply one for these, so has someone got a bar( stihl rollamatic e), and taken the stud of to make it fit? btw bar looks like someone has used it for a batting practice, dings and dents all over the edges.

3. whats the best thing to clean oil and saw dust off, loads everywhere, looks like it might not have been cleaned in a few years.

Anyway, have taken all the covers off, tried to clean in best I can, got new fuel filter on it's way, cleaned the air filter from half tree on it. New bar and chain on order. have started of with a 16" bar and stilh chain. any recommendations?

will post some pics later when I down load them

btw saw runs, but needs tuned I think, as chain slowly moves under idle.

thanks in advance for the help..

Steven

 

[SawTroll]

I believe the very first 024s had only one bar stud.

As for cutting attachments, I am pretty sure that a .325 Narrow Kerf setup would be perfect, but Stihl doesnt offer that - Oregon offer it though, and I believe Carlton.

 

[sdt7618]

but the second hole?

need to check the saw saw itself but the cover has this hole thats been infilled with a blanked off screw?

would a 35 cm bar work better? Logs etc will not be any bigger then 35 cm, but depends what the river brings by... I live on a estuary and get most of the wood/logs washed up by the big tides and storms etc.

what would be the best chain type, wood is normaly clean, but can be a bit dirty depending on the violence of the storm

 

[sdt7618]

oppps

saw was build in 1989, West Germany. says so on the lable!! :jester:

 

[sdt7618]

Pictures

some pics of the saw I just got, see how the second bar stud has a slot head, is this normal? should it be threaded for a nut to go over?

 

[nilzlofgren]

some pics of the saw I just got, see how the second bar stud has a slot head, is this normal? should it be threaded for a nut to go over?

The slot head is the screw used to adjust the chain tension. Your clutch cover should just have two holes, One for the stud to receive the nut, and one to insert a flathead screwdriver through.

 

[SawTroll]

would a 35 cm bar work better?

Shorter is better on the 024, 13" is the norm here.

 

[Lakeside53]

some pics of the saw I just got, see how the second bar stud has a slot head, is this normal? should it be threaded for a nut to go over?

Totally normal... Only the 024 SUPER has two studs from the factory. If it bothers you, just take out the slotted stud and screw in a standard stud...

Your chain adjuster is on the front so you don't need to drill out the side cover..
16 or 18 inch bars work fine on the 024.

 

[sdt7618]

Thanks,

The chain tension screw is shot also, has a bend in it? no idea how you could bend that without some force! anyway new one on order to. doesn't bother me as my little PS100 has only one stud, but just wondered if someone else had been tinkering. any reason for a slotted screw in the first place? or just to fill a hole in the chassis?

Seems due to the high pound/dollar exchange I can buy and ship parts from the US much more cheaply than buy in the UK. very weird, so much for carbon footprints!!

 

[Lakeside53]

The side adjuster is easily bent if the bar is inserted without the post in the bar hole, then the bar nut(s) tighted down...


The adjuster screw might be able to be fixed. While in the saw move the adjuster tab to the center of the bend, then rotate it until it's at it's highest point, and tap down with hammer.. Try it a couple of of times and it might come right.

They are cheap to replace.

 

[SawTroll]

.....
16 or 18 inch bars work fine on the 024.

.....has to be in very soft wood......

 

[sdt7618]

Chain choice?

Since the wood that I mostly get had been run down the river etc, I take it I would be best with a semi chisel chain, e.i Rapid micro etc. type of wood is what ever comes along, some hard, some soft. think I might sick with the 14" or maybe the Stihl 15" bar, as they seem to go either 13", 15" & 18" here. unless I order a non stihl bar. what would be the advantage of going with the narrow kerf bar? again I would be cheaper to order from bailies and get i shipped than buy it here!!

dam, this is addictive!! having fun tinkering with this saw, wife can't understand why. !! lol

 

[SawTroll]

Since the wood that I mostly get had been run down the river etc, I take it I would be best with a semi chisel chain, e.i Rapid micro etc. type of wood is what ever comes along, some hard, some soft. think I might sick with the 14" or maybe the Stihl 15" bar, as they seem to go either 13", 15" & 18" here. unless I order a non stihl bar. what would be the advantage of going with the narrow kerf bar? again I would be cheaper to order from bailies and get i shipped than buy it here!!

dam, this is addictive!! having fun tinkering with this saw, wife can't understand why. !! lol

A 15" Oregon Micro-Lite Pro, and 95VP chain would probably be your best bet........

...but RM isn't bad at all, for more or less dirty wood, just make sure that you don't get RM2 chain.....

 

[sdt7618]

A 15" Oregon Micro-Lite Pro, and 95VP chain would probably be your best bet........

...but RM isn't bad at all, for more or less dirty wood, just make sure that you don't get RM2 chain.....

As the 95VP is 1.3mm guage, would I have to change the sprocket? as currently runs a 1.6mm chain and bar? on the saw at the moment is a 7 pin spur sprocket, is there any advantage to changing to a rim etc, and how easy is it to do. bearing in mind never done anything like this before.... but it's fun.

 

[sdt7618]

New Bar and chain

Well, just ordered the new bar and chain for my little project.

Went for the ArborPro Narrow kerf and the 20NK chain.

can anyone advise how weasy it is to change from a spur to rim sprocket, or should I just stick with the spur?

will post some pics when the new clothes for my toy arrive. looking forward to cutting some wood with it.


Steven

 

[sdt7618]

Next Problem

Right,

Saw start, then dies. will run if I hold throttle, but die when released.

have set carb as follows H + 1 turn, L + 1 turn maind screw + 1 turn.

any suggestions?

have cleaned all filters, new fuel filter on order.

seems to have loads of compression, ( holding starter handle and doesn't move)

So whats up? any suggestions

 

[Lakeside53]

Check the impulse hose carb boot, cylinder bolts etc.. but the best way is a pressure/vac test. The problem is most likely a crank seal on the flywheel side..

It's running when you hold the throttle because the air leaking is a smaller in relation to the total air flow, and, the vibration of the saw is shaking the fuel enough to make pressure.


Try tuning your L screw out a couple of turns, and your LA screw way in... then if you can get it to run, fiddle from there, but DON'T leave it like that - fix it.

 

[GASoline71]

.....has to be in very soft wood......

Whatever Niko... you know better...

Gary

 

[sdt7618]

Check the impulse hose carb boot, cylinder bolts etc.. but the best way is a pressure/vac test. The problem is most likely a crank seal on the flywheel side..

It's running when you hold the throttle because the air leaking is a smaller in relation to the total air flow, and, the vibration of the saw is shaking the fuel enough to make pressure.


Try tuning your L screw out a couple of turns, and your LA screw way in... then if you can get it to run, fiddle from there, but DON'T leave it like that - fix it.

how easy a fix is it for a novice if it is the seals? or best taken to local dealer, what about the cost of that, is it an expensive repair?

 

[Lakeside53]

Well..... The only problem is that it's a PITA to get the seal out without the Stihl flywheel remover and seal puller... and only your dealer (or me) would have them... I'd charge 30 minutes for a seal replacement and pressure test, but if you bought the saw to me and said "fix it", about an hour.

First though, you need a pressure/vac test to see if it really is a seal problem.