3/16 vs 5/32 file

[holeycow]

Lots of good info in this thread.

 

[sundance]

View attachment 1168197

Jerry's point about some % of the file above the tooth is quite critical. You will see suggestions of anything from 17% to 33% as he suggested. The point is the file does not just drop into the tooth an cut away, you must hold the file so some % is above the tooth, otherwise you end up with an extremely thin cutting edge that will not hold up for long.

Hold the file at 90° to the bar for most semi-chisel chains as shown in the lower right hand of the illustration, this also works for most round filed chisel chain. Once you have all of the other points fully addressed you can try working on the 10° up angle on round filed chisel to see if you can tell any difference.

Mark

As near as I can figure, top plate cutting angle and side plate angle are derivative angles based on file height and top plate angle. Not directly set like height and top plate angle and basically just for info.

Correct?

 

[ihookem]

What’s the difference between “real” sharp and dull and why can’t a used chain achieve it?

The last chain I had that was all but worn out was impossible to get real sharp . It cut popple pretty decent though, but not hardwood sharp. The only thing I could figure is I used an electric sharpener and perhaps I changed the metal . It may have gotten too hot cause I did see it get red. . There was not much left of it anyway, and not worth $10 bucks to take it in to get it sharp..

 

[pioneerguy600]

Filing the cutters back until the cutters are about 1/4" long on a new chain will get a fast cutting chain, if the saw powerhead has enough oomph the depth gauges can be dropped lower, say .030 to .035 and it will get some serious shavings/chips coming off that setup. Running a 20" bar and chisel chain on my ported 066 flat top makes a pile of chips quickly and has caused a grin from time to time.

 

[NSEric]

I like the progressive style depth gauges that go onto the tooth at a slope/angle forward not the flat ones.
They fix most issues with chains not cutting when they're worn 1/2-3/4 out because you need .030-.040 depth gauges by that point not .025.
If you use a file guide like this one, you can sharpen every size chain half decent with a 5/32 file as it will give the right amount of hook with the file the right amount above the cutter. BBR on youtube calls it the sister C or something stupid but it does work well.

The good depth gauge tool.

 

[buzz sawyer]

Hi,

Is there a way to determine which file size a chain needs? Is it just based on the saw?
I just sharpened a chain that for my 543xp that probably called for a 3/16 with a 5/32.

On another note, I’ve recently stopped using a file guide or my 2-1 sharpeners. I can definitely keep the angle better being able to see what I’m doing and a vice isn’t necessary. Any downside not using a guide?

Thanks

Can you post some close-up pics of a few cutters?

 

[heimannm]

sundance - file size and file height in the tooth.

Mark

 

[muddy42]

Surely its simple - just always use the file/kit size the manufacturer tells you to use? I use Stihl chains so have this printed on the wall of my workshop. I have the bottom three 3/16ths, 13/64ths and 7/32ths

 

[telecasterfool]

In answer to the original file size question: the other answers are helpful. I use the recommended file for all except recently I've been using 3/16 for 3/8 lopro (pico) chain. I have not noticed any less speed, and the 3/16 is just a nicer file to use. (less flimsy) maybe others will comment on the slight change in tooth angle. technically, I believe the more obtuse angle should last longer - more steel behind the edge. But I can't say I've noticed any difference. What others have hinted at or said is true - YOUR experience with the wood in your area is very important and should not be discounted. We all need to keep in mind when answering these questions that we might be cutting very different wood around the world.

 

[muddy42]

Leaving aside manufacturing differences, surely in theory every tooth looks the same from the side, just scaled up or down depending on the power of the saw. Therefore there is a mid case file for every size of tooth, that maintains this profile. Of course individuals may go off-piste and larger/smaller than this mid case.

 

[redhawk23]

Well, maybe I’ll try a file guide again and a different raker gauge.

 

[holeycow]

Get the husqvarna progressive raker gauge for your chain size. It's a ridiculously overpriced piece of tin (and they don't even dull it's sharp edge - ridiculous), but it's the only gauge I am aware of that sets each raker to its cutter.

NSEric posted a pic of it a few replies back there..

 

[redhawk23]

I like the progressive style depth gauges that go onto the tooth at a slope/angle forward not the flat ones.
They fix most issues with chains not cutting when they're worn 1/2-3/4 out because you need .030-.040 depth gauges by that point not .025.
If you use a file guide like this one, you can sharpen every size chain half decent with a 5/32 file as it will give the right amount of hook with the file the right amount above the cutter. BBR on youtube calls it the sister C or something stupid but it does work well.
View attachment 1168308
The good depth gauge

Get the husqvarna progressive raker gauge for your chain size. It's a ridiculously overpriced piece of tin (and they don't even dull it's sharp edge - ridiculous), but it's the only gauge I am aware of that sets each raker to its cutter.

NSEric posted a pic of it a few replies back there..

I have one, I didn’t know it was superior to the Standard raker gauge

 

[redhawk23]

There’s apparently many to choose from. I have one fir 3/8 but not .325

 

[huskihl]

In answer to the original file size question: the other answers are helpful. I use the recommended file for all except recently I've been using 3/16 for 3/8 lopro (pico) chain. I have not noticed any less speed, and the 3/16 is just a nicer file to use. (less flimsy) maybe others will comment on the slight change in tooth angle. technically, I believe the more obtuse angle should last longer - more steel behind the edge. But I can't say I've noticed any difference. What others have hinted at or said is true - YOUR experience with the wood in your area is very important and should not be discounted. We all need to keep in mind when answering these questions that we might be cutting very different wood around the world.

All true

 

[singinwoodwackr]

I’ve been cutting a lot of dry wood and my chains aren’t as sharp as I think they should be. The angles are right, the rakers are filed, and I think I’ve taken enough metal off the tooth. Should I be able to get a half used chain as sharp as a new one?

Thanks

Yes

 

[HumBurner]

You can always use a smaller file on a larger chain, but it’s not as simple as filing in one spot and pushing in one direction. You actually have to tailor the shape a little bit to match that of a larger file.

Typically, a 5/32 file is for 3/8 lo pro and 3/16 is for .325

The .325mini that Husqy has on their battery saws calls for 5/32". On this last chain I've been using this week, Ive used an 11/64" and am finding it quite nice compared to the 5/32".

 

[huskihl]

The .325mini that Husqy has on their battery saws calls for 5/32". On this last chain I've been using this week, Ive used an 11/64" and am finding it quite nice compared to the 5/32".

The newer .043 gauge mini picco stuff has thrown a wrench in the common chain file sizes

 

[redhawk23]

Does everyone use a file guide?

 

[Franny K]

It would take good hand to eye coordination and good vision to be a candidate for not using a guide.

The ones you posted back in post 54 are worth trying. s93g and sp33g would be the ones. The top plate is visible during filing.