3/8 picco/lopro rim sprockets

[B_Turner]

Did Danzco ever make the 3/8 lo pro sprockets and how did they work out?

I have been wishing for a source of small spline 3/8 lp (picco ideally) sprockets to run on my hydraulic stanleys.

One thing I learned about the danzco style sprockets is they won't fit on a small husky with an outboard clutch. But the stanley saws have much more room.

 

[BobL]

Did Danzco ever make the 3/8 lo pro sprockets and how did they work out?

I have been wishing for a source of small spline 3/8 lp (picco ideally) sprockets to run on my hydraulic stanleys.

One thing I learned about the danzco style sprockets is they won't fit on a small husky with an outboard clutch. But the stanley saws have much more room.

I have been communicating with them. Last communication was to establish a shipping price - should be no biggie as they are quite small.

 

[B_Turner]

I have been communicating with them. Last communication was to establish a shipping price - should be no biggie as they are quite small.

Thanks. I hope they work out okay, even with the round drive "pins."

I had talked to him early this year about making some 3/8 lp small spline sprockets, but nothing came of it. So I am very curious about how well this veture works out, and if it does work out well I can maybe have him make some in the small spline rim.

I have thought about trying have someone mod the splined part on the stanley saws to accept the stihl p-7 (picco) floating rim, but I don't think there is enough meat on that part to size it down to the stihl floating rim which is a smaller spline.

Slightly different subject, but I have been trying the .043 gauge 3/8 lp lately on smaller saws (short bars) for faster blocking due to the greatly reduced kerf, and that shows some promise.

Naturally not suitable for milling, as the chains are a bit wimpy. But the power required to cut endgrain is much less than even a 3/8 lp. Night and day. Haven't found out yet how long the chain holds up.

 

[B_Turner]

Thanks. I hope they work out okay, even with the round drive "pins."

I had talked to him early this year about making some 3/8 lp small spline sprockets, but nothing came of it. So I am very curious about how well this veture works out, and if it does work out well I can maybe have him make some in the small spline rim.

I have thought about trying have someone mod the splined part on the stanley saws to accept the stihl p-7 (picco) floating rim, but I don't think there is enough meat on that part to size it down to the stihl floating rim which is a smaller spline.

Slightly different subject, but I have been trying the .043 gauge 3/8 lp lately on smaller saws (short bars) for faster blocking due to the greatly reduced kerf, and that shows some promise.

Naturally not suitable for milling, as the chains are a bit wimpy. But the power required to cut endgrain is much less than even a 3/8 lp. Night and day. Haven't found out yet how long the chain holds up.

The other follks that use 3/8 lp a lot are chainsaw carvers who like to block out their work with 3/8 lp (with genuine 3/8 lp bars but using regular 3/8 sprockets) because in fact most of their blocking cutting is end grain cutting like milling.

And lately I have been spending a lot of time with hydraulic saws that are inherently smooth but have no AV at all. So I can notice the difference in vibration (I believe) when using LP with a regular drive sprocket vs a chain with a truly matching drive sprocket like .325 (which I always use 8 pin so the chain speed is about the same).

So part of my goal in getting a lp sprocket that fits the chain better is less vibration through my hands. It's a different kind of vibration than motor vibration as the hydraulic saws themselves don't have a piston or crank going back and forth.

Further evidence pointing to the mismatched drive sprocket causing some "vibration" is that my saws designed to run lo pro are a bit smoother in that regard. Although it is not quite a fair test as these saws are spur drive and tend to be one fewer "pin" (6) as compared to using a 3/8 floating rim which is typically 7 pins when used on a small spline saw.

 

[BobL]

I sent an email to Ed and just got this.

"The sprockets are being heat treated and should be back later this week for assembly. We hope to ship next week."

YAY!

 

[B_Turner]

I sent an email to Ed and just got this.

"The sprockets are being heat treated and should be back later this week for assembly. We hope to ship next week."

YAY!

Cool. I eagerly await reports on howthey work out.

 

[BobL]

Cool. I eagerly await reports on howthey work out.

Hopefully someone else will report on this sooner than me. Due to my mangled fingers I'm not supposed to lift anything above about 4 lbs with my left hand for another 6 weeks and then nothing above 10 lbs for 4 weeks after that.

 

[B_Turner]

Hopefully someone else will report on this sooner than me. Due to my mangled fingers I'm not supposed to lift anything above about 4 lbs with my left hand for another 6 weeks and then nothing above 10 lbs for 4 weeks after that.

I've been tied up for a while and not following AS as closely as normally lately so I did not read about your fingers.

Bummer to hear about such injuries, and I hope you get through it all as well as possible.

I managed to stick my hand in a big bandsaw a few years ago, and that was a life changing mini second. I got off easy on the grand scale of things.

It's funny when I told one of my brothers what I'd done, he immediately proclaimed "do overs!" Wish we did get a couple do overs in life....

Edit: I searched and found your posting on your injury. Ouch. I squished a finger once bad enough blood squirted through the skin. I don't think much about that injury much anymore, although the finger is still a bit thicker than the other one and on a really cold day I remember.

My brother the doc says with hand injuries it is important to get back range of motion as soon as possible. He says all the tissue esp with fingers needs to move to remember what sort of tissue it is. If it is kept immobile too long it can start to stiffen up and forget what it used to be.

 

[BobL]

I've been tied up for a while and not following AS as closely as normally lately so I did not read about your fingers.

Bummer to hear about such injuries, and I hope you get through it all as well as possible.

I managed to stick my hand in a big bandsaw a few years ago, and that was a life changing mini second. I got off easy on the grand scale of things.

It's funny when I told one of my brothers what I'd done, he immediately proclaimed "do overs!" Wish we did get a couple do overs in life....

Edit: I searched and found your posting on your injury. Ouch. I squished a finger once bad enough blood squirted through the skin. I don't think much about that injury much anymore, although the finger is still a bit thicker than the other one and on a really cold day I remember.

My brother the doc says with hand injuries it is important to get back range of motion as soon as possible. He says all the tissue esp with fingers needs to move to remember what sort of tissue it is. If it is kept immobile too long it can start to stiffen up and forget what it used to be.

Bandsaw injury - not good

Re: My injury
I was surprised that it did not hurt more than it did. The fact that there was a 3/8" webbing strap still between the doors is what probably saved me from worse injuries. The docs have given me little exercises to do and says that using a keyboard is one good one.

 

[super3]

Hopefully someone else will report on this sooner than me. Due to my mangled fingers I'm not supposed to lift anything above about 4 lbs with my left hand for another 6 weeks and then nothing above 10 lbs for 4 weeks after that.

You will be pissing right handed for a while huh Bob? :hmm3grin2orange:

 

[BobL]

You will be pissing right handed for a while huh Bob? :hmm3grin2orange:

For a while it was not even one handed man, it was a bit too hard to undo and do up zippers and buttons so was just wearing elastic waist track-suit pants and doing it like women

 

[Andrew96]

For a while it was not even one handed man, it was a bit too hard to undo and do up zippers and buttons so was just wearing elastic waist track-suit pants and doing it like women

Thanks...you just made me spit out my coffee on my keyboard laughing at the visual.

 

[BobL]

Thanks...you just made me spit out my coffee on my keyboard laughing at the visual.

Visual :monkey: - nooooo - lets not go there.

 

[B_Turner]

So Bob, what are your thoughts on round drive pins on this style rim vs the "normal" driver that in theory at least will contact the drive link with more surface area?

Ed tried to explain to me once why the round drive pin worked as well, but I didn't understand (my problem not his).

 

[BobL]

So Bob, what are your thoughts on round drive pins on this style rim vs the "normal" driver that in theory at least will contact the drive link with more surface area?

Ed tried to explain to me once why the round drive pin worked as well, but I didn't understand (my problem not his).

I'm not trying to understand it either. I figure the best thing I can do is try them out and see what happens. The greatest damage on stuff like sprockets (and chain drive links) is most likely to come from too much rapid acceleration and chain vibe.

In theory milling can be a smoother operation than bucking of bigger timber, where there is multiple repositioning of bars and subsequent acceleration takes place. This is where, the use of mill wheels to reduce side bogging and constant saw orientation and constant pressure during a cut really helps. On implementing all of these I have noticed that my sprockets have less wear than in the past.

The other wearer of spockets is chain vibe and chain stretch. This is where things like equal cutter length, and lower (ie 10º) toplate angles help considerably. Blunt chains will also magnify vibe so keeping the chain as cool and a sharp as possible at all time helps. Also things like bar maintenance using aux oilers and not forcing the saw all help.