330 bar keeps shifting

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ArboristSite Member
Joined
Feb 2, 2005
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Location
Clinton, Maine
How can I keep the bar on my Homelite 330 from shifting? I get it adjusted, cramp the stud nuts as tight as I dare and start cutting. After a dozen good cuts or so, the chain is loose again. Brand new Oregon bar and the oiler is working.

Any tricks to keep the bar in position?

Jim in Maine
 
Jim-this might work, adjust the chain for tension and then put the bar tip on something solid, hold the trigger handle in your left hand so that the saw is horizontal and tighten the bar nuts with your right hand. The idea is to place the bar like it wants to be when its cutting. Probably when you tighten the nuts the bar still has room to move up so after the pressure of a little cutting it moves up and the chain gets loose. Could be some thing bogus like a Stihl 036 where it gets tighter after you adjust (except in reverse) it but try my idea first.
 
Clearance, I've tried that. I've usually got leather mitts on when I'm using the saw, so sometimes when adjusting it, I put the bar tip in my left hand an reef on the nuts with the wrench in my right hand. That ought to keep the bar from tilting down. Also, I use a box end wrench and must be just short of stripping the threads, it's so tight.

Seems most saw don't hold the bar very securely when it comes to endwise movement.

Jim in Maine
 
JIm-ya got me I dont know what else to say. Maybe get a 372. Someone help this guy!
 
Maybe it's because I often to a lot of cutting with the top of the bar (logs down that are supported near the ends) and that might put a big pull on the bar, since the sprocket is pulling the bottom and around the end to where the wood is.

Cutting with the bottom of the bar leaves the top and tip slack.

Jim in Maine
 
Well, there you go...

How about snugging the tensioner up real good after tightening the bar nuts?
 
Jim, Every now and then I encounter a saw that misbehaves as you are describing even though everything is being adjusted correctly. Get a piece of fine grit wet or dry emery paper, punch holes for the bar studs and sandwich it between the clutch cover and the bar.-I prefer grit side in since the bar is a wear item.
 
If the chain is sharp and saw is oiling properly, could the adjusting screw be stripped and not holding? Maybe the bar adjuster is rounded off and not sitting in the bar? Be careful torqueing down the bar nuts so hard and to the point you risk cracking the cast bar cover or worse, tearing 'em out
 
You can also apply a little bit of valve grinding compound to the bar mount pad. The grit gives a good grip on the bar and saw parts. I kinda like the sandpaper idea better as it is less messy.
 
I'll try one of the grit ideas. Had been thinking of something abrasive like that. The adjusting screw lug is in good shape and engaging the bar properly. I have also tried tightening it after tightening the bar nuts, but it alway vibrates loose no mater what I do. I find the bar does this on my Super XL and my XL too.

Like I said, I'll try the wet or dry or the valve compound.

Thanks all,

Jim in Maine
 

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