346 XP low RPM no power, service center in Steubenville not good.

[zeek]

Last February I bought a new Husqvarna 346 XP at M&M hardware in Steubenville, Ohio. Bought local for many reasons, one was they are an authorized service center.

Took the saw in after 4 months of use because it was hard to start when hot, they said there was nothing wrong, must be me? I changed the way I started it hot, it got a little easier to start but FAR from what it should be.

Fast forward to yesterday, started it up, very little power and low RPM's, it would barely cut, no speed, no power. I took it the service center and they will have it 3 weeks, not happy. I really don't trust the service center and have a feeling they are going to just adjust he carb and throw back at me, and maybe that is the problem, but I suspect a bad coil. I run 93 octane, Husqvarna oil mixed 50:1 and I just replaced the plug. Any ideas? Anybody know of a good service center around Steubenville, Ohio?
Thanks

 

[nmurph]

How does it start when it is cold? It may be that the carb needs some adjustment beyond what the limiters will alllow. Lots of dealers won't remove the limiters to do the needed adjustment.
Coils do typically cause problems when they get hot, but usually the saw won't restart when it's hot and will do so without problem from on a cold start.
It could also be that the tank vent is bad. Have you cracked the fuel cap when it is hot? Does it hiss? Have you tried cracking the cap and running the saw when it is giving you problems? This is an easy way to check for a vent problem.
Your saw likely has a CAT muffler and those cause a saw to run hotter.
I would want to see what the piston looks like just for my own satisfaction.
Three weeks is unacceptable!!!!!

 

[HiOctane]

Low power ?Your exhaust screen blocked ?How about setting,can you get get full rpm with a "good sound"?Dont think your coil coil could be suspect.Worst,piston could be seized,easy to check by exhaust.Hard starting when hot,did you check if the small white cap inside the cover is closed ?

 

[zeek]

Starts no problem when cold and since it is still pretty new I would not be surprised if the carb needed some adjustment, but I will not do it, afraid of messing it up. Mind you I am not an idiot, just don't know about adjusting a 2 cycle carb.

Tank vent? hmmmm possibly, where is it?

As far as piston, not comfortable doing that, but I did notice some black sludgey-like build up at the base of the plug.

3 weeks, crazy, they said they will get to it when they are done with the appointments!!! So some guy's front tine craftsman tiller is being serviced before my saw that I bought from them so it would be serviced. I think I am going back today and taking my saw to another service center, or I will try to fix it up myself.
Thanks

How does it start when it is cold? It may be that the carb needs some adjustment beyond what the limiters will alllow. Lots of dealers won't remove the limiters to do the needed adjustment.
Coils do typically cause problems when they get hot, but usually the saw won't restart when it's hot and will do so without problem from on a cold start.
It could also be that the tank vent is bad. Have you cracked the fuel cap when it is hot? Does it hiss? Have you tried cracking the cap and running the saw when it is giving you problems? This is an easy way to check for a vent problem.
Your saw likely has a CAT muffler and those cause a saw to run hotter.
I would want to see what the piston looks like just for my own satisfaction.
Three weeks is unacceptable!!!!!

 

[zeek]

Good call on the screen I will go get that saw back and check it. No good sound, even my two boys, 9 and 7, said "Daddy that doesn't sound right" so no good sound even while setting.

If piston was seized would it even run?
Made sure winter flap was open before starting yesterday.

Low power ?Your exhaust screen blocked ?How about setting,can you get get full rpm with a "good sound"?Dont think your coil coil could be suspect.Worst,piston could be seized,easy to check by exhaust.Hard starting when hot,did you check if the small white cap inside the cover is closed ?

 

[HiOctane]

Air vent is recessed inside a round hole on the blade side of the upper part of the tank.Looks like a white dime.Could be vent tank,but you didnt mention about air hissing when you loosen the fuel cap.Check the exhaust screen first,very easy to remove,one bolt affair.Are you getting full rpm from the saw?

Tank vent? hmmmm possibly, where is it?


Thanks

 

[mountainlake]

Low power ?Your exhaust screen blocked ?How about setting,can you get get full rpm with a "good sound"?Dont think your coil coil could be suspect.Worst,piston could be seized,easy to check by exhaust.Hard starting when hot,did you check if the small white cap inside the cover is closed ?

Time to check it yourself, very few good service centers any more. As above pull the muff, check the screen or any other restictions in the muff, look at the piston. Carb could be set wrong or clogged but if it used to run good and it hasn't been sitting for a couple of month most likely not. Steve

 

[zeek]

So should I hear air hissing when I remove gas cap? I assume yes, I will go get the saw and try the screen/exhaust cleaning and get back to you guys.

Air vent is recessed inside a round hole on the blade side of the upper part of the tank.Looks like a white dime.Could be vent tank,but you didnt mention about air hissing when you loosen the fuel cap.Check the exhaust screen first,very easy to remove,one bolt affair.Are you getting full rpm from the saw?

 

[zeek]

Do you mean look at the piston through exhaust port?
It has sat for about 2 months, maybe a bit gummy?

Time to check it yourself, very few good service centers any more. As above pull the muff, check the screen or any other restictions in the muff, look at the piston. Carb could be set wrong or clogged but if it used to run good and it hasn't been sitting for a couple of month most likely not. Steve

 

[HiOctane]

The screen is on TOP of the muffer,just one bolt to remove.To see the piston,you hae to remove the 2 bolts holding it.

Do you mean look at the piston through exhaust port?
It has sat for about 2 months, maybe a bit gummy?

 

[mountainlake]

If the screen isn't clogged pulling the muff and looking at the piston only takes a couple of minutes. With sitting for 2 months it could be a gunked up carb, for sure if you have to you ethonal fuel. Steve

 

[nmurph]

The muffler can be removed in a couple of minutes. There are four allen head bolts holding it in place. The saw can start and run with a scored (not seized, but you are getting there!!) cylinder. The muffler can be pulled without any obvious signs of tinkering. Any streaking on the piston is a tell-tale sign of problems.
The oil around the spark plug could be a sign that the plug wasn't tight, but every saw will have a little blow-by here. Just make sure the plug is tight. You might pull it and check it for excess carbon. I use a NGK BPMR7A in mine (this fits most saws).
I wouldn't try to pull the tank vent. It is easy enough to check for correct function without pulling it.
I would let the dealer (it sounds like you might need a different one) get your saw fixed. It is under warranty and they should get it right. You might ask for the ph number of the area rep. Getting his attention will often get things corrected.

 

[zeek]

Thanks for the information and advice I am not afraid of doing what you guys have suggested, and will do the things advised. I just don't want to void my warranty by tinkering too much. I will call Husqvarna and get the area manager's number. Someone said something about ethanol?
What is the best way to clean out the carb? Normally I just take it off clean it, but not sure I want to do that when still under warranty.

The muffler can be removed in a couple of minutes. There are four allen head bolts holding it in place. The saw can start and run with a scored (not seized, but you are getting there!!) cylinder. The muffler can be pulled without any obvious signs of tinkering. Any streaking on the piston is a tell-tale sign of problems.
The oil around the spark plug could be a sign that the plug wasn't tight, but every saw will have a little blow-by here. Just make sure the plug is tight. You might pull it and check it for excess carbon. I use a NGK BPMR7A in mine (this fits most saws).
I wouldn't try to pull the tank vent. It is easy enough to check for correct function without pulling it.
I would let the dealer (it sounds like you might need a different one) get your saw fixed. It is under warranty and they should get it right. You might ask for the ph number of the area rep. Getting his attention will often get things corrected.

 

[sunfish]

Made sure winter flap was open before starting yesterday.

Winter flap should always be closed, unless very cold out.

You have a great saw and these guys can talk you through fixing it.

 

[sunfish]

So should I hear air hissing when I remove gas cap? I assume yes, I will go get the saw and try the screen/exhaust cleaning and get back to you guys.

Should not hear an air hiss. When running, air enters through the tank vent, as the fuel is pulled from the tank. A hiss means air can't get through the vent.

 

[nmurph]

What kind of oil are you using in the mix? Does it have a fuel stabilizer or are you using some? I don't worry about ethanol. It is the most over-hyped thing since Al Gore, the internet, and global warming. Well, two of the three are over-hyped.
I use 2 month old 10% ethanol fuel without a problem. I do use Stihl Ultra which has a fuel stabilizer in it, but even without a stabilizer, I wouldn't think 2 month old fuel would be your problem. A new saw won't gunk up in two months. That takes many months. And its not the ethanol that is causing the gunking. The problem with ethanol is that it can hold water and it can cause rubber lines to rot prematurely. But again, we are talking about a few months old saw and those lines shouldn't be failing regardless of the type of fuel being used. If you left your fuel can open for extended periods, the ethanol can absorb water. Chainsaw engines use a certain amount of liquid to air and the carb doesn't know if the liquid is 100% combustible or has some water in it. The problem is that the combustion chamber does and having too much air in proportion to fuel causes a lean condition and premature aging of the piston and cylinder!!

 

[the westspartan]

How old is the gas that you are running in it right now? If it is more than a month or so old, the gas may be the issue, especially with the summer humidity. Ethanol in gas "sucks" water from the air and can really mess with the way an engine runs. When you get it back make sure you pick up some fresh gas to mix and run. I have had gas less than two months old go bad and make my saws run like crap. They would idle, but would be tuff to start hot and had NO power in the cut. I didn't know what the problem was, but got new gas, on a hunch, and it cleared up all problems.

 

[the westspartan]

nmurph, you beat me to it! I bet this is the issue.

 

[w8ye]

WEIRTON RENTAL
1336 PENNSYLVANIA AVE.
WEIRTON, WV 26062

Phone (304) 748-0057
Fax (304) 748-320

 

[zeek]

Closed . . . . got it, I knew that, just got so mad yesterday I wasn't thinking . . .

Winter flap should always be closed, unless very cold out.

You have a great saw and these guys can talk you through fixing it.