346xp is irritating me

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Mr_Brushcutter

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This is a fantasic saw BUT there is one thing that is winding me up and thats the outboard clutch.

I've taken the clutch off and flipped the bar and chain over. However i'm having real difficult getting it back together. I can do it but every time the chain is really really difficutl to turn around by hand i just can't to seem to get the tension right. Also the clutch won't do up as tight as it was befor (it can be unscrewed by hand, last time i had to hit it with a hammer and a screwdriver).

Any tips for set putting outboard clutches back on? Any clues to my tensioning problem.
 
For some reason I can't get this pdf to attatch so I'm putting it on a thread called Mr_Brushcutter.


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Grande Dog
Master Mechanic
Discount Arborist Equipment and Tree Care Supplies
 
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I suspect your chain isn't sitting in the sprocket properly. It's tight getting the chain around the clutch drum, so I put the chain over the drum and on the sprocket first. Without the bar in the way you have more room to look and make sure the chain is on the sprocket and not wedged down beside it. Next I set the bar over the studs and slide it back towards the sprocket. Then pull the chain over the bar. Then slide the bar forward and align it over the tensioning screw. Then put on the side cover.

If you get to that point and find out the chain isn't on the sprocket, you gotta pull it all back apart and take the chain off the bar in order to get enough slack to get it where it's supposed to be.
 
The attachment that grande dog posted was here for a few minutes as I was able to open it. I'm not sure what happened. On the tensioning problem- when you get the tension where you want it, back it off one or two "clicks" (if you turn the screw slowly you will feel the resistance) before you tighten the nuts. When I tighten up the bar nuts on my 353 (same basic saw), the chain always seems to be tighter than where I just set it with the tensioner.
 
bar and chain on or off (clutch cover on the saw)...run the saw about 3/4 throttle and engage the brake before letting off the trigger...This will tighten the clutch (make sure its hand tight before doing this)
 
brent denny said:
..... On the tensioning problem- when you get the tension where you want it, back it off one or two "clicks" (if you turn the screw slowly you will feel the resistance) before you tighten the nuts. When I tighten up the bar nuts on my 353 (same basic saw), the chain always seems to be tighter than where I just set it with the tensioner.
I can attest to that.....
 
Mr_Brushcutter said:
... I've taken the clutch off and flipped the bar and chain over. ...
:confused: I must admit that I don't quite follow you.

I don't like the outboard clutch either, but I don't understand what taking the clutch off has to do with flipping the bar over.
In my book the normal procedure is to make sure the chain brake is not on, and remove bar nuts and clutch cover.
Then you untighten the chain, and slide it over the clutch and off the bar in more or less the same operation.
After cleaning as nesassary, you flip the bar, put the chain on (start at the bar tip, slide it over clutch and into drive sprocket, and work it into the rail on top of the bar as you put the bar in place over the studs and tensioner knob/screw).
Then retighten the chain loosely, making sure it starts into the rail on the underside also. After that you put the clutch cover in place and complete the chain tensioning.

By the way, the chain should not be flipped.:laugh: :laugh:
 
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Like SawTroll said,you dont have to remove the clutch to flip the bar .If you need to remove the clutch for others reasons like check the oil pump,you can buy the special remover tool from Husky.Dont use a screwdriver to unscrew it because you could break the "finger"where the shoes slide.
 
HiOctane said:
If you need to remove the clutch for others reasons like check the oil pump,you can buy the special remover tool from Husky.
Octane -- do you have a part number for the remover tool? Will is work on most/all Husky clutches?
 
HiOctane said:
Like SawTroll said,you dont have to remove the clutch to flip the bar .If you need to remove the clutch for others reasons like check the oil pump,you can buy the special remover tool from Husky.Dont use a screwdriver to unscrew it because you could break the "finger"where the shoes slide.

How so?Husky covers have a machined edge designed to accomodate a screwdriver, which works well. For reassembly, all that is needed is a good snug fit, as the crank rotational forces will tighten the clutch up just fine.
 
rbtree said:
How so?Husky covers have a machined edge designed to accomodate a screwdriver, which works well. For reassembly, all that is needed is a good snug fit, as the crank rotational forces will tighten the clutch up just fine.
I know you can use a screwdriver,but ive seen few guys breaking fingers because they hit too perpendicular to the finger and had to buy a new clutch.
 
I'd suspect you got the chain on the sprocket. I had the same thing happen on my first 346XP the first week I owned it. See my post above. ^^^

Does everybody here have me on 'ignore' or what???
 
ehp said:
Ken please donot tell me that is your 346.

no, some one posted it at the piture forum........they left it on the back of the chipper when they started it..........pretty cool huh...........i'm much harder on my saw's than that.

i should have said it was marky's.
 
I figured out the chipper part, just could not tell if it was ported or not
 
skwerl said:
.....
Does everybody here have me on 'ignore' or what???
:D Surely not!

I enjoyed your posting very much the last time you were on this forum, and I still do!

Your advise and opinions are allways worth "listening" to.

Welcome back!:blob2: :blob4: :blob2:
 
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