34AV super ?

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

manual

Addicted to ArboristSite
Joined
Feb 8, 2005
Messages
4,720
Reaction score
551
Location
Barton City Mi.
Ok whats up with this saw?
pulls over great with no plug, put your finger over the plug hole and you can't pull it over.

And what does AV stand for?
 
Lake, I think he is probably talking about the same thing I was with an 034 being a bit hard to pull over. I now have 2 tanks of newer 50:1 through mine and it pulls over maybe a bit easier, or at least I am wishing it to. It really is a bit easier but part of that may be due to just getting 3 year old sticky oil washed/burned out/off of everything. I really like that saw once it is running. For a saw on the light end of mid-size it cuts quite well. The only time it loses any rpm at all is when I am using the entire 18' of bar in a cut. Did I thank you for your help/ advice on mine?? Thank you just in case.
 
wow I have never seen a small mount stihl bar at 18 feet long you use almost a half a reel to make a loop on that bad boy no wonder it slows down you must be cutting giants or something j/k '=feet "=inches for future reference
 
Lakeside53 said:
your finger is jambing the piston...:hmm3grin2orange:

Care to explain more...details ??

When the plug is in and you pull start the saw two pulls a she is locked up.
So I pulled the jug off thinking some is broke but nothing was.
Ring looks ok piston is not hitting. cylinder is clean.
WHAT NEXT.
 
I'm completely confused... maybe you a have a bearing with a cage collapse.. Crank getting pinched? Does it rotate fine with the jug off?
 
Lakeside53 said:
What side to side? Crank?
I guess side to side would be wrong.sence it slides side to side.
I was thinking the angle side to side. on rod bearing.
or better yet how would you check a bad bearing. up and down?
Now if the cage was bad that would mean the roller bearings are binding together. right.
this saw pulls over great with no plug in it and feels smooth when you roll it over by pushing it around by the piston. I still have it apart.
 
I use an otoscope (the thing the doctor puts in your ear) to check the bearings from the top inside of the crank case - you only get a partial view but it's better than nothing. Grab the flywheel and see of you can get it to move up and down - usually the flywheel side goes.

Other than that I'm not sure what to say... Unusual if you can't see what's stopping it from turning over (piston hitting top of cylinder, ring broken etc).. I assume you haven' t modded the cylinder and still have a base gasket installed?
 
manual said:
When the plug is in and you pull start the saw two pulls a she is locked up.
So I pulled the jug off thinking some is broke but nothing was.
Ring looks ok piston is not hitting. cylinder is clean.
WHAT NEXT.

Manual, start looking for a bad bearing. I just swapped a crank into a different case because of a bad bearing on the clutch side. Every once in a while it would bind up. The 034 case it got swapped into was available because the crank/rod bearing was broken. It also would bind up. Both saws would start and run but would not hold the idle they would just fade out.

Also might make sure that a ring is not getting stuck because of to much play.

Did you have to twist the cylinder to get it off the piston?

When you say locked up do you mean it will not turn at all or is it just very hard to crank?

Does your crankcase have a lot of fuel or oil in it? Is the any thick residue in it?

I hope you find the problem. Good luck.
 
Thanks guy the saw is down the road from me. I'll check this out.
Looks like I am going to have to bring it home.
 
Hmm yes, I see... 18 ft... and it's VERY nose heavy too. And I do believe my hunch on just being compression was off base too.
 
Justsaws said:
Manual, start looking for a bad bearing. I just swapped a crank into a different case because of a bad bearing on the clutch side. Every once in a while it would bind up. The 034 case it got swapped into was available because the crank/rod bearing was broken. It also would bind up. Both saws would start and run but would not hold the idle they would just fade out.

Also might make sure that a ring is not getting stuck because of to much play.

Did you have to twist the cylinder to get it off the piston?

When you say locked up do you mean it will not turn at all or is it just very hard to crank?

Does your crankcase have a lot of fuel or oil in it? Is the any thick residue in it?

I hope you find the problem. Good luck.

Looked at the cage on the bearing looks fine.
Noticed that the piston has some scoring marks just at the bottom only on the intake side.
Rings look fine also.

Locked up will not turn at all when put together. Took it apart because you could pull it about two times and the saw locks up. You can stand on it and the saw wont turn. pull the plug out and she turns.
 
Well, to state the obvious, something is wrong... There is only a limited set of things that can do this, and so far nothing has been found.

Does it bind at the TOP of the stroke (must do if it has to do with the plug installed..? if so, loosen the cylinder screws a mm each and see if it turn over.

Has this saw ever worked? If so, what was the failure history?
 
034 pulls over.

Here is your problem. The starting rope pully has a crack in it.As you pull it over with the plug removed, their is no resisatance and all is well. Wioth the plug installed you have resistance and the pully is now seperating causing the rope to bind.The rope should rewind on top of itself but with resistance the rope now has roob to move and is now overlapping itself causing your problem. If no crack is found, install a NEW rope and you should be good to go! Ken
 
Lakeside53 said:
Well, to state the obvious, something is wrong... There is only a limited set of things that can do this, and so far nothing has been found.

Does it bind at the TOP of the stroke (must do if it has to do with the plug installed..? if so, loosen the cylinder screws a mm each and see if it turn over.

Has this saw ever worked? If so, what was the failure history?
Yea saw was running. then this problem accuerd. nothing torned apart before.
Keeping plug gap. has heavy carbon deposits on top of piston. no sign of piston topping out.
I am going to put another piston in from other saw just for a looksee.
 
kenskip1@verizo said:
Here is your problem. The starting rope pully has a crack in it.As you pull it over with the plug removed, their is no resisatance and all is well. Wioth the plug installed you have resistance and the pully is now seperating causing the rope to bind.The rope should rewind on top of itself but with resistance the rope now has roob to move and is now overlapping itself causing your problem. If no crack is found, install a NEW rope and you should be good to go! Ken

Theres a thought I have a spare saw so that should be easy to check.
 
Back
Top