35cc to 40cc Chainsaw Decision Available 2023

[sundance]

I’m not sure why anyone would bother with a 35cc to 40cc saw when you can bump up to a 45cc Stihl ms250. The ms250/025 has a great power to weigh ratio and loads of interchangeable parts giving you ample options between 3/8lp and .325 pitch. Spur or rim sprocket. It’s been my experience that echo makes a nice saw but echo has the habit of not supporting there older saws when it comes to parts availability. Of course this is my own opinion!

Because the MS250 (mine at least) is a POS. Hard to start, hard to re-start, nothing to brag about when running.
My ~35cc Echos (346 and 352) start and run well - and are lighter.

 

[Piston Skirt]

I know at least one who would!

It’s funny how price is always the driver in this, even more than function. If am working predominantly in 2-8” wood, why would I care that a bigger saw costs the same or less? Wrong tool for the job.

I’m on your side. But that’s the ugly truth of the market principles.
That was the story with VHS, BluRay etc. - masses make the choice, even if it isn’t the best one

 

[028S038AV]

I’m not sure why anyone would bother with a 35cc to 40cc saw when you can bump up to a 45cc Stihl ms250.

I like my smaller 35cc saw a great deal. That is the saw that has gas in it, the 1 st saw I will grab for apple tree trim, broken limb, storm damage, or small tree removal. This would be a better saw, I have Efco, Sthil, Echo all have a decent top or rear handle saw in the 35CC range. I am fixing 6 of the Stihl 011 top & rear handles, will keep the best 1-2 units. These are a messy saw because the drive sprocket / oil area is not sealed well and makes a mess every where. Have been thinking of mods to keep the oil from getting in the muffler area and other body areas.

The next area to consider.... when I was cutting fire wood or taking apart a tree. Would cut down and lay tree on ground. Will then take my 35cc top handle saw and cut off also the small branches, the stuff finger size is brush for rabbits & song birds with the buds (winter cuts). The rest of limb would be cut for fire wood length kindling. When the tree has short LARGER limbs, then reach for the 50cc saw and limb to 4 ft or fire wood lengths. The 35cc will have a 14" bar, the 50cc saw would have a 18" bar. The larger 60cc saw has not been used in 4 years now. Getting older and the lightweight saw is just a joy to use.

I have tooo many saws right now but.... can get by with 2 smaller saws, a 50cc and a 60cc. For most homes and handy people this would be a good mix. If you heat with wood could use a larger

I like my Efco 935 top handle 35cc saw. Lots of torque, quick cutting anything your arm/finger size. Great trimming saw. Cannot recommend the Efco brand, very hard to get parts for my 935. Have had for 15 yrs are my primary grab saw and go.

Call me for help with tree damage, will reach for the Efco 935 and Stihl 028 super a 50cc saw and can do a lot of work fast. Have headed to tornado damage with this combo.

I would not get a 35cc pouland, but a better name saw in this class can be a pleasure to use.

 

[Valpen]

I like my smaller 35cc saw a great deal. That is the saw that has gas in it, the 1 st saw I will grab for apple tree trim, broken limb, storm damage, or small tree removal. This would be a better saw, I have Efco, Sthil, Echo all have a decent top or rear handle saw in the 35CC range. I am fixing 6 of the Stihl 011 top & rear handles, will keep the best 1-2 units. These are a messy saw because the drive sprocket / oil area is not sealed well and makes a mess every where. Have been thinking of mods to keep the oil from getting in the muffler area and other body areas.

... Getting older and the lightweight saw is just a joy to use.

I have tooo many saws right now but.... can get by with 2 smaller saws, a 50cc and a 60cc. For most homes and handy people this would be a good mix. If you heat with wood could use a larger
...
I would not get a 35cc pouland, but a better name saw in this class can be a pleasure to use.

I agree with a lot of your comments and thinking.
If you like the 011AV, you might try to find a 012AV (45cc) in decent shape.
I have had several 011AVs over the years, and now only have one 012AV ("size does matter").
All switched up to 16" bars, with out any bogging down issues, and with a fine balance and extra reach.

 

[028S038AV]

I agree with a lot of your comments and thinking.
If you like the 011AV, you might try to find a 012AV (45cc) in decent shape.
I have had several 011AVs over the years, and now only have one 012AV ("size does matter").
All switched up to 16" bars, with out any bogging down issues, and with a fine balance and extra reach.

Thank you Valpen,

The good part of the Stihl 011 is that there were so many of them around here there are lots of parts saws, fix saws, and on craigslist too. Do not see as many of the 012, but a good idea.

I also fixed up a couple of the 009L and is similar is size, but no AV, anti vibration, for the handle. I have hand issues and sold it to my neighbor how gave to his brother in Utah. VERY small, compact, torque saw. Would be great to carry in 4x4 on outings. Almost like a toy chainsaw.... till you start it up and put to wood. 40cc? w smaller case.

Have been thinking of putting section of split silicone tubing on part of the chain/bar cover to seal the muffler area off a bit from bar oil mess. Have been using silicone tubing off ebay for a few things, cover spark plug wires that are old, rubbing, might be sparking out. Cool Trick. Also can split the tubing and put on rim of chain/bar cover for the bar oil mess around muffler. Have played with the oil mess a bit, believe this would work... HIGH temp material, inert, inexpensive. I keep 3-4 OD Silicone Tubing for spark plug wire "assistance".

 

[Valpen]

Thank you Valpen,

The good part of the Stihl 011 is that there were so many of them around here there are lots of parts saws, fix saws, and on craigslist too. Do not see as many of the 012, but a good idea.

I also fixed up a couple of the 009L and is similar is size, but no AV, anti vibration, for the handle. I have hand issues and sold it to my neighbor how gave to his brother in Utah. VERY small, compact, torque saw. Would be great to carry in 4x4 on outings. Almost like a toy chainsaw.... till you start it up and put to wood. 40cc? w smaller case.

Have been thinking of putting section of split silicone tubing on part of the chain/bar cover to seal the muffler area off a bit from bar oil mess. Have been using silicone tubing off ebay for a few things, cover spark plug wires that are old, rubbing, might be sparking out. Cool Trick. Also can split the tubing and put on rim of chain/bar cover for the bar oil mess around muffler. Have played with the oil mess a bit, believe this would work... HIGH temp material, inert, inexpensive. I keep 3-4 OD Silicone Tubing for spark plug wire "assistance".

Please keep us posted on your silicone tubing fix for the "oil-seep" issue inherent to all the Stihl 1120 series.

I still have a 011AV at our summer home/camp in the Adirondacks, so I get the chance to compare the 011AV vs the 012AV.
The 012AV just has a little more "grunt", with the same lovely top end, and it is the same balance, size and weight...
I must confess that sometimes I will choose it over the MS200, as it has a smaller gas tank, which forces me to take a breather/break sooner, and is not always a bad thing... And the part of my ego that doesn't want to acknowledge my vintage, just won't let me fill the tank on the MS200 less than full.

 

[link]

Stihl MS241c-m.

 

[dsell]

Stihl MS241c-m.

It's discontinued. Assuming it wasn't, it would probably be $500-$600? The MS-261 C-M shows $680, 10.8 lbs, 4.0 bhp, 50.2cc.

 

[Hickahollar]

Well cheap price and 40cc if you know how to tune a chainsaw get a poulan. My pl3314 was very finicky to tune I had to adjust the carb every time I ran it for about the first 15 ish tanks of gas but when I assume it finally got broken in I've not had to touch the carb for anything in the last 8 years. With one exception I muffler modded it and made it a little screamer. It dang near keeps up with my stock ms250 and oils so much better. My little echo cs3510 I still had to adjust the carb right out of the box it wouldn't stay running. Turned the idle screw up then had to tune it. It's also a very nice little saw. But now that you have a cs400 it's time to get a 59cc to 80cc saw.

 

[Birchcrick]

I briefly had a Husqvarna 135 Mk2. It was a pretty handy little saw. Super easy to start and weighed nothing. Sold it to a buddy who would always grab it to limb when we cut firewood together.

 

[Stihl-Pioneer]

I have a MS211 and it’s actually a peppy little saw in reality. Worth a look.

 

[dsell]

The ground dried enough to cut today. Lots of little cuts side trimming a hedge row. I'm happy with the saw. It was strange and touchy to tune. Usually, hesitation on acceleration can be fixed by opening low. That made it worse. I like how it's running wot in the cut. I couldn't lean on it with the spike. I ran 3 tanks and threw the chain twice. It destroyed the chain. I'd rather have a rim system. The spur wads the chain up where a rim wouldn't.

 

[dsell]

I changed to a rim system and it seemed a little catchy so I modded a P7 rim. That is some hard metal. It's still catchy, but I will give it a try. This is not the correct drum for this serial. The newer Oregon drum is deeper. I had to use two echo clutch washers to make up the space. I got lucky and had a bearing that worked. I made a clutch removal tool. It sounds better. The original drum is very low quality. The clutch was only hitting a small portion and the rest was loaded with pitch.

 

[sean donato]

I’m not sure why anyone would bother with a 35cc to 40cc saw when you can bump up to a 45cc Stihl ms250. The ms250/025 has a great power to weigh ratio and loads of interchangeable parts giving you ample options between 3/8lp and .325 pitch. Spur or rim sprocket. It’s been my experience that echo makes a nice saw but echo has the habit of not supporting there older saws when it comes to parts availability. Of course this is my own opinion!

Cause they are garbage saws.

 

[dsell]

I ran the Stihl P7 7 tooth rim set up yesterday. I thought the 7 pin would be too much for it, but really didn't hurt it. It sounds like a sewing machine now when I rev it. I like this saw better for side trimming hedge than the CS-4910.

 

[dsell]

The 400 is just a bit lighter as equipped and the front handle is narrower. In the pics, the 4910 is out of oil and fuel. The 400 has a little over 1/2 tank of each. The 50 has about a 1/3 tank of fuel and the bar oil is on the garage floor. In this batch of pics, only the 400 scale is shown, just under 13 lbs.

 

[dsell]

The 4910 comes in a bit over 13 lb dry, with 18 inch bar. The 50 needs a diet at 14-1/2 lbs with 18 inch bar, both .325 pitch, 1/3 tank of fuel.

 

[dsell]

Do you think I opened the muffler up too much? Could that be part of the cold blood? It takes a few cuts to wake up.

 

[MAWoodsman]

I appreciate that Echo still sells old school saws. Non-strato, non-computerized. Parts are reasonable and easy to find online. The saws are easy to find locally.

I was in the same boat as you last year and ultimately went with the 4910. Its basically the 501P(Pro grade) except for the metal handle. They also respond very well to porting and tuning, which I also wanted to do. Now i have a 10lb saw that will rip thru just about anything in my way, and is build to last.

 

[dsell]

I was in the same boat as you last year and ultimately went with the 4910. Its basically the 501P(Pro grade) except for the metal handle. They also respond very well to porting and tuning, which I also wanted to do. Now i have a 10lb saw that will rip thru just about anything in my way, and is build to last.

I'm very happy with both saws and would recommend them to anyone. The 400 is easier to pull the starter with its springy assist and would be better for people that may have a shoulder or arm on the mend. The 400 took more work & $ to make it the way I wanted.