Add Rock Elm and dead standing locust.[emoji106]
Forgot Osage orange is pretty bad too.
36" bar on a echo cs- 590? Anyone try? Looking to use one to make a few cuts in some large wood.
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Forgot Osage orange is pretty bad too.
I’m still waiting to find rock elm. I’m told it’s around here but never seen it.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ulmus_thomasii
I have cut lots of elm in Michigan but never one that looked so branchy bushy. There all usually really straight and some split into two trunks after about 20' but diameters are 12" or less and are choked out by other trees. I hate cutting them down due to all the different elm diseases and how barely any are left. But my food plot needs expanding. Elms in general cut the same as oak imo, sometimes alil harder.
I have cut lots of elm in Michigan but never one that looked so branchy bushy. There all usually really straight and some split into two trunks after about 20' but diameters are 12" or less and are choked out by other trees. I hate cutting them down due to all the different elm diseases and how barely any are left. But my food plot needs expanding. Elms in general cut the same as oak imo, sometimes alil harder.
When elms are dead they cut like dead ash sometimes the bar and chain chatter and gets alot of abuse.
I'm not sure Rock Elm is the actual name of the species or not. I do know we've also lost all of those trees as well, at least six of them on my property. I believe due to Dutch elm disease. I don't see them around anymore either.[emoji17]
Here was the last Elm on my property I cut down a few years ago. When the disease hits the tree it will die within a few weeks, and the bark falls right off.
Here was the last Elm on my property I cut down a few years ago. When the disease hits the tree it will die within a few weeks, and the bark falls right off.
The elm I've cut when dead is much harder than any Ash IMHO. And as we all know much harder to split, stringy nasty stuff I hate splitting it.When elms are dead they cut like dead ash sometimes the bar and chain chatter and gets alot of abuse.
Unless you leave it out in the elements for about three years it’s usually unsplittable!
Yeah.....sparks with Locust surprises a lot of folks.
Especially when it is 20-30 years old.
beaglebriar
ArboristSite Operative
I'd notch that bítch and drop it... 24" bar is all you need. 20" would do it without much problem. Would use a 394 for shíts n grins though.
And cottonwood ain't very hard for hardwood, not that it matters.
Matt93eg
ArboristSite Operative
I remember the first time I split elm. Neighbor asked me if I wanted it. He already had it bucked up so I got it. Hell at the time I didn’t know it was elm. I will just say I finally got some of the smaller stuff split but it was a battle and the rest of the rounds sat there and I let the bastards rot. Lol
Matt93eg
ArboristSite Operative
Andy I don’t know anything about how the 572s filter is set up or what kind it has but I know on my 390 I was getting a small trace of fine dust into my intake manifold. I found it was coming in between the plastic filter base and the plastic manifold. Husky really should have had some rubber there or something. I keep a film of grease between the two now and haven’t had any more issues.
The 572 has a nice rubber seal, nothing gets passed that, it's the filter meterial, which is the same as what's used on the 390. If you look in the filter there is fine dust inside it. The 390's I have seal fine, but again it's the filter it's self that seems to let dust in, air filter oil stops the dust from getting in. It's long past the time Husqvarna invests in New filter meterial, 20-30 years ago it was the best out there. In real dry dusty conditions the saw won't last as it should IMHO, and this was only after a couple tanks of fuel. Who knows maybe the dust is fine enough it won't do any harm.
I do think how much vacuum or flow the engine produces has an effect too, as the old 372 and 395 never seemed to have this issue, or at least not as bad.
Matt93eg
ArboristSite Operative
Atleast they did a rubber seal on the 572 then. I was quite aggravated after spending so much on a saw that I had to put grease between the filter and manifold on my 390. At the end of day not a big deal but when spending that much I feel it is something you shouldn’t have to do. I will continue to keep a close eye on the saw as normal to make sure I don’t see anymore crap getting in since it appears the filters are/can be suspect as well.
D
Deleted member 149229
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I was getting fines in my 9010, I put grease around the rim of air filter too.
Okay lets cut cards. There is no cookie cutter answer BUT years ago everyone told me a small Poulan 2150 would not be able to run a 20 inch bar and chain.
There are many variables to this issue.
Frankly I use a 27 inch bar and agresive Chain on my STOCK cs590 Echo occasionally. The first thing is Oiling. Yes my 590 oils that 27 inch bar well. Next power. Some guys in a hurry push down or force the saw. If your need is for excessive speed get a bigger saw but if you aren't in a huge hurry the 27 works fine. Not daily tree after tree but for that once in a while big tree. IF the time came for a 36 inch bar and chain I would FIRST figure out which bar and chain could be made to fit. If I had to get more oil flowing id I'd consider enlarging the bar oil hole, maybe angling it a bit. If that didn't quiet do it I'd consider designing my bar oil. Maybe add Transmission fluid and STP to thin but add tack. I've added Lucas Oil Additive before. After I decided the saw oiled well I would hand file my new chain to maje it scary sharp while watching the depth of my rakers so as to not over load my chain saw. Then there is SKILL. I'd ask myself, can I safely do this? I'd study the situation well and make plans. The question is similar to asking, can I ride this Bull? The answer is, Hell I don't know, can you. If you ask, can anyone else ride this bull? I'd say, well the right guy probably can.
One big mistake many people make is the 1 rope pull with a rope to weak, not enough pull, not the correct amount of hinge thickness and the lack of proper wedge uses. Some trees need 2 guide lines on each side of the Bull Rope, main pull rope. Rarely is a cheap comealong without a proper Snatch block adquite for big dangerous trees. But, if you have help it's possible if you have the skill. I use a 20 inch, 24 inch and occasionally a 27 on my cs590. This big tree is an example of a big tree needed a 27-28 inch bar. Years ago I put a big bar , think maybe 36 inch on a Poulan 380. A 60cc helava good saw but sold it several years ago.
James Miller
Addicted to ArboristSite
This dead locust was like cutting concrete. Lots of touch ups for one tree.
James Miller
Addicted to ArboristSite
Don't think I'd run a 36 on my ported 590. But I do think it would oil a 36 better then my 7910.
Looks like all the elm i cut. I agree on the bark, trees are silverish looking like aluminium flag poles but I bet that aluminium cuts easier than an old dried out elm lol
Here was the last Elm on my property I cut down a few years ago. When the disease hits the tree it will die within a few weeks, and the bark falls right off.
[/QUOTE]
Here was the last Elm on my property I cut down a few years ago. When the disease hits the tree it will die within a few weeks, and the bark falls right off.
Very well said. I've carved up big trees with small saws before. Just need to take your time, make sure you don't over work the saw, and monitor the tune and chain sharpness.
The falling cut is the biggest concern when dropping a big tree. Provided the crown isn't wedged or needs weight taken off, the rest is just work.
Looks well worth the work though!
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