49SP and 70E Build From Scratch.......or Scratches!!

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This is just a plug for our brothers to the North....these pics are of my "Free Flow" wood stove that as far as I know was made somwhere in Canada....it's a very well designed and built stove. It heats my 3,500 sqft shop here on the Rockbound Coast of Maine to the tune of about 3 1/2 cord per yr. LOLOL you can put a good sized stick in through door!!! Next to it is a new 7 section oil boiler 175,000 btu to heat this buiding and another the same size. (yet to be built)
 
This is just a plug for our brothers to the North....these pics are of my "Free Flow" wood stove that as far as I know was made somwhere in Canada....it's a very well designed and built stove. It heats my 3,500 sqft shop here on the Rockbound Coast of Maine to the tune of about 3 1/2 cord per yr. LOLOL you can put a good sized stick in through door!!! Next to it is a new 7 section oil boiler 175,000 btu to heat this buiding and another the same size. (yet to be built)

Nice stove, never saw another like it but it looks Canadian made, really like the exhaust pipes.
 
Nice stove, never saw another like it but it looks Canadian made, really like the exhaust pipes.

Good call Jerry .....it is made of 2 1/4" exhaust pipe and flat plate welded in between... hundreds of ft of welding....probably a 50 lb box of 6011...wild door too...like off a submarineLOLOL!!! It's the same age as both these saws!!!!
 
I just wanted to add that using the toaster oven to heat and expand the cases really works great. No struggle at all, just set the crank and bearing in place and let it cool. The 49SP halves were in about 10 mins at 220 degrees and everything just slipped together. So good in fact that I made a mistake and didn't notice it until the halves were together and ready for screws. I had removed the bar oil line before putting the 49SP PTO side in the oven (You can see the line still on in pic 029) Anyway after I realized it and paniced (unecessary) I simply pulled the halves apart with my fingers, replaced the hose and put it right back together...no ploblem at all. The other nice thing is you don't have "center" the crank by giving it a whack with a dead blow or anything. I found when the heated (PTO side) was bolted to the cool side it passed enough heat to the flywheel side case so the bearings could be shifted by hand to center the crank.

The 70E flywheel case half was just a tad harder to heat so the above temps and times were upped to 240 degrees for about 15 mins in order to get to the point where everything just slipped together. Part of the reason I stopped short (other than time) was the 70E PTO side is slightly larger with the upper AV mount and won't fit in the oven, so I'm still considering the best approach...probably I will just cover the front with tin foil instead of closing the door. This size oven worked perfectly the 49SP sized saw.

For you sealant guys......I used a very, very thin coat of blue HYLO MAR on both sides of the case gasket. It never hardens and is totally impervious to gas, oil and heat to 600 degrees F. I love the stuff.....rather spendy but a tiny bit goes a long ways. I use it on aluminum marine fuel tank sending units alot. You can take it apart a yr later and put it all back together without even adding more to the joint. It seals well, comes apart well and once there is a layer on the gasket surface of a tank it does not allow saltwater to infiltrate between the gasket and the alum and causing a corrosion issue. No I don't own stock in the company...but wish I did!!:cheers:
 
A big +1 on using the heat to install bearings, no damaging pressures on the bearings or case bores during installs. Another +1 on the blue HYLO MAR for case gasket sealing, very thin coat req.
 
Hylo Mar is wonderful stuff.I used a lot of it rebuilding truck engines and never had any problems. Nice heater for the cases too. I used a hot plate for my 372, but would have prefered something like you have. Keep it coming.

geoff.

:cheers:
 
Got a little more done tonight...assembled the 70E cases and installed the oil pumps in both the 49SP and 70E ......not a lot of time. But forward progress none the less. I tried to cover the oil pump install...the pics are of the 70E but it is exactly the same process for the 49SP and the parts are the same for either saw.

039 70E flywheel side case half and gasket prepped for PTO side install.

040 Oil pump body, retainer, two retainer screws, pump adjuster and its alum retainer. (all new OEM O-rings on both pumps)

041 installing adjuster screw and alum retainer.

042 Oil pump body lubed up and ready for installation.

I used an acid brush with a little straight Stihl Ultra to lube the main breaings and big end rod bearings after the cases are bolted together and the seals are in, also all parts of the oil pump and adjuster as well as the holes in the case where these items go. One reason for doing this is lubrication the other is rust prevention on freshly cleaned bearing surfaces.:cheers:
 
043 Lubed up oil pump body on the way in.

044 70E case complete.

045 and 046 The Pair.....both at the same stage. Cases assembled, seals installed and oil pumps installed and adjusters set two turns out. The next job is to install the pistons and cyls to keep dirt out of the crankcases. The 70E has a new NLA OEM Mahle P&C kit waiting on the bench so that won't take a lot of work. The 49SP however, will be utilizing a used Mahle P&C with a new OEM ring. But first the cyl has to visit the bead blaster for a thorough cleaning and brightening........I may also do some basic porting on the 49SP...there is room for improvement there. Also if it should not end up satisfactory, I have other stock cyls. The 70E will remain stock.
 
Lookin good and progress being made.

Thanks Jerry....Slow going, trying to think about how to photo as I go in a coherent manner so someone else may be able to use this info to help repair or rebuild these old saws themselves. It's certainly easy to start assembiling and forget getting some pics of the steps. This is first for me...trying to take pics as I go.

That powerhead stand is certainly earning its keep. It's the first time I 've used it to build a motor. It is very handy for doing repairs but really shines on a build. The verticle rotation on the base is infinitely adjustable, and the horiz. rotation has positive stops at 0...45...90...135...180...225...270...315...and 360 (0) degrees. So between the two you can find a combination that works for what you're doing. As you noted it's heavy enough built so it provides a good solid mount, no flexing this way and that. Way better than chasing a powerhead around the bench LOL!!!

No Idea who made it and wasn't able to find anything on the internet. Obvoiusly not a one off. I gave $89.00 plus $20.00 shipping to get it here from the PNW. I was willing to pay a considerable amount more but for some reason bidding competion was light for once!!LOLOL!!!
 

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