r1stgei
ArboristSite Operative
Link to 10mm adapter?
562xp decided it won’t idle
- Thread starter Big_Eddy
- Start date
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Link to 10mm adapter?
D
Deleted member 117362
Guest
That adapter will give a low reading. No valve in it's end. Extra volume gives that low reading. Just like adding squish.
So - I took another look at the piston today - I've been running the saw on and off in between. It looks scored now. Not sure if I was blind before and the scoring was there - or if it has happened since then - but either way - seem now I need a new piston and ring. (edit: looking at the old picture again - it was not before and it is now)
Are there any good aftermarket pistons for the 562XP, or should I go OEM?
And yes - once it is back together - there will be a pressure and vac test before I run it.![IMG_4400[1].JPG](https://cdn.imagearchive.com/arboristsite/data/attachments/536/536607-c4ed4cad9bab3ebd8856e278b646824f.jpg "IMG_4400[1].JPG")
more.
Are there any good aftermarket pistons for the 562XP, or should I go OEM?
And yes - once it is back together - there will be a pressure and vac test before I run it.
more.
D
Deleted member 117362
Guest
Looks like an air leak. Exhaust is dry. New bearings, seals, piston, maybe cylinder. Then re-flash.
This is the downside of Autotune. The problem should have been attended to the day it arose but the computer allowed the engine to run until now.
In April the repair would have been fairly reasonable, now it might be pretty much the cost of a new saw.
In April the repair would have been fairly reasonable, now it might be pretty much the cost of a new saw.
I would pressure and vac test before further disassembly.
As far as which piston to buy...I would price out OEM and Meteor.
Roy
As far as which piston to buy...I would price out OEM and Meteor.
Roy
I just had one on my bench that the piston looked just like this. Ended up the base gasket was leaking. Failed a pressure/vac test miserably
I told the shop the piston was pristine and to plug it in and check the carb tune - then pressure test. . He called me over 5 mins later to look at the piston and no point on the carb. It has all of 10 mins run time since I pulled the muffler in April. Does not take long.
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Good advice.
Anyone ever do a step by step how to or have a favourite you tube to point me to? I know the basics but never hurts to have a refresher. It has been eons since I actually observed one done and never done my own.
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I like this one:
10 mins is a short time. Bearings OK? I hope you can pinpoint the problem.
I am not getting at this quickly.
But I finally have the carb and muffler off and a mighty vac handy to test with. Am going to need to cobble up something to block off the strato openings
I was amazed at how much sawdust was in the strato section of the carb. Kinda hard to see in the dark, but the entire strato section is filthy and coated in sawdust. Clearly it’s been getting by the filter when running at full throttle. May have something to do with the low compression.
I’m pretty diligent about cleaning it regularly, but clearly not enough. I have noticed some fine dust gets by the seal. I’ve heard where others coat the filter edge with grease for a better seal. Keep those filters clean!
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But I finally have the carb and muffler off and a mighty vac handy to test with. Am going to need to cobble up something to block off the strato openings
I was amazed at how much sawdust was in the strato section of the carb. Kinda hard to see in the dark, but the entire strato section is filthy and coated in sawdust. Clearly it’s been getting by the filter when running at full throttle. May have something to do with the low compression.
I’m pretty diligent about cleaning it regularly, but clearly not enough. I have noticed some fine dust gets by the seal. I’ve heard where others coat the filter edge with grease for a better seal. Keep those filters clean!
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Long overdue update.
Cause of the no idle and ultimate lean condition was an air leak under the right hand transfer cover. Took a while to find. All the usual air leak suspects came up clean. Ended up having to dunk it in the laundry tub to locate the leak.
Cylinder cleaned up nicely.
Bearings and seals are fine.
New piston, ring, small end bearing and additional parts are ordered.
Saw will be getting a few additional touches while it’s apart including the 2020 air filter upgrade.
Looking forward to getting it back together again
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Cause of the no idle and ultimate lean condition was an air leak under the right hand transfer cover. Took a while to find. All the usual air leak suspects came up clean. Ended up having to dunk it in the laundry tub to locate the leak.
Cylinder cleaned up nicely.
Bearings and seals are fine.
New piston, ring, small end bearing and additional parts are ordered.
Saw will be getting a few additional touches while it’s apart including the 2020 air filter upgrade.
Looking forward to getting it back together again
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
timberwolf590
Izzy
How did you find the leak? I've got a 562 with the same idle problem and I'm convinced it's a leak. Unfortunately I don't have access to a pressure tester right now.
My 2017 model has been having issues keeping its idle, also. A couple years back it was a fuel line that came loose from the poorly designed air-filter bracket (not the original version and not the most recent updated version) and had worn a pin-hole against the carb body.
It started doing it again recently. I changed the fuel filter, as it was getting old and slightly dirty.
It's helped, but I haven't run it enough to verify if the idle is solved.
May have to break out some soapy water. This unit probably has 300 hours or less on it.
timberwolf590
Izzy
Good to know, thanks!
There was a fix for the earlier transfer cover issues. Really just pull them and reseal them with some sealer. the updated fuel lines/ air filter should be done if your in there messing with things. Seems to solve a lot of issues between those two things.
Do you know what year/revision provided for new fuel lines?
Whatever I did on my last reset stuck, and the saw is running normally again. It idled for 10 minutes yesterday with no hesitation, and had no hesitation throttling up/down.
When these carbs work right, they are awesome!
Cheap ones on eBay or Amazon are about 25 bucks. I know people here love their MightyVacs, but the chinesium one I've got worked fine for me so far. I like expensive tools as much as the next guy, but if I don't use it every day, I buy the cheap one first. If it breaks I get an expensive one.
