I’d get a 592 before a 390 or 395. The OP said the saw will be mostly be used with a 28 any way so I say the 572 would be his best choice.
Having run both, I'd buy a 372 over a 572.
I’d get a 592 before a 390 or 395. The OP said the saw will be mostly be used with a 28 any way so I say the 572 would be his best choice.
Thank you guys for all the responses. All things considered I am leaning towards the 572 largely due to it being almost 3 pounds lighter. If I find that I want more power can I have it ported after it has been run, or do the cylinder and piston have to be brand new? I will make my final decision once I have handled both of them.
I run a std weight 36" on my 390 and it's a bit front heavy. I'd bet it would balance out nice with a 32" like you said.390 with a 32" bar is almost perfectly weighted/balanced (for my frame, 6'3" ~150lbs).
A 572 with 32" bar doesn't have the same balance in the hand. 28" is even slightly off, for my frame. 24" felt balanced.
Yea they do, a 572 balances perfect with a light weight 28 and has a touch nose drop with a light weight 32I run a std weight 36" on my 390 and it's a bit front heavy. I'd bet it would balance out nice with a 32" like you said.
Not pining for port work here. Just showing an example of how a ported 572 can run a 32. If the OP isn’t happy with the 572 in stock form, it can be rectified.
Nice G model is a bonus.Thank you again everybody. I ended up buying the 572. I didn’t even realize until I got home that it is an xp-g. Bonus I guess. If I find that I want more saw down the road then I will wait for a 592 in need be.
For sure! I am anxious to see how it runs once it’s broken in! I had the dealer order a 28” bar for me (he ordered it with a 20”), so I will have to see how that goes.Nice G model is a bonus.
Definitely let us know how it works out for you, fyi 10 tanks is about the minimum for it to really come into its own.
It’s an autotune saw. They tune themselves.By the way, the dealer seemed to be completely against porting, base gasket delete, and muffler mods because he wouldn’t know how to tune it. I know they get muffler mods and porting plenty, so how does that work?
That’s what he was explaining to me, but then he said that if the carburetor was to go bad he wouldn’t be able to tune/ program the new to whatever mods had been done. I am guessing he hasn’t dealt with a modification 5th gen and isn’t certain he could get it squared away again.It’s an autotune saw. They tune themselves.
They find they’re own tune, he won’t have to do anything different to it if it is or isn’t portedThat’s what he was explaining to me, but then he said that if the carburetor was to go bad he wouldn’t be able to tune/ program the new to whatever mods had been done. I am guessing he hasn’t dealt with a modification 5th gen and isn’t certain he could get it squared away again.
So, should I jump on the muffler mod. and possible base gasket delete train?
There’s nothing to change on the software. The computer doesn’t know the difference.That’s what he was explaining to me, but then he said that if the carburetor was to go bad he wouldn’t be able to tune/ program the new to whatever mods had been done. I am guessing he hasn’t dealt with a modification 5th gen and isn’t certain he could get it squared away again.
So, should I jump on the muffler mod. and possible base gasket delete train?
Are you removing the original deflector and enlarging that whole and going through the baffle? Probably easier just to add the the wcs deflector with a 3/4 whole behind it and leave the existing one alone. I just add a pipe to mine and leave the stock one as isI just finished advancing the ignition timing just under a 1/4” measured on the O.D. Of the flywheel. I ordered a universal muffler port w/ spark arrestor from Westcoast Saw along with a set of his 3 point dogs.
Votes on whether I should use the universal port in addition the the factory exhaust port vs just as a redirect after porting the factory port?
Are you removing the original deflector and enlarging that whole and going through the baffle? Probably easier just to add the the wcs deflector with a 3/4 whole behind it and leave the existing one alone. I just add a pipe to mine and leave the stock one as is
I was going to open the muffler up through the factory ports and go through the baffle. I wasn’t sure if adding a second port would be too much flow for a low 70s saw.
Enter your email address to join: