576xp does not run correctly

[Yotaismygame]

Once you said it gets hot quickly I assumed timing like cus delux said. The flywheel will be fine with no key, just tighten it up. The key is only there to align it. Force holds it in place.

 

[mbrick]

Ok, any recommendations of how to line it up accurately enough? I am not sure how sensitive it is.

I put a dot on the end of the crank and then a line on the flywheel so I can line it up with the nut and then tighten it.

Also I checked the nut and it has an integrated washer so it should not need to be lubricated to keep it from rotating the flywheel per my earlier question. I also lined it up and tightened it and then confirmed it did not move.

Do you have a torque spec for the flywheel nut? I did not see a spec in the manual.

I will run it tomorrow, fingers crossed.

 

[cus_deluxe]

youll want to be pretty darn close in order to get it to run well. afew degrees can make a big difference. if that inner taper on the flywheel is galled youll have to lap it somehow. youll want a good clean mating surface on flywheel and crank end or it will just spin again. a little light abrasive of some sort in there, set that flywheel on the crank and spin it about a million times under a little pressure, then clean it up well. but locate the old keyway the best you can first haha.

 

[Yotaismygame]

Tight as an impact driver will get it. A little timing advance will do that saw good

 

[MacAttack]

Yep, that will do it!

Clean the tapered surfaces very carefully with a fine grit sandpaper (200grit), and thoroughly clean with alcohol before assembly, and tighten it up good.

This is how snowmobile clutches are installed, no key whatsoever and they do not slip.

 

[hotshot]

[QUOTE="mbrick, post: 7091894, member: 122420]Do you have a torque spec for the flywheel nut? I did not see a spec in the manual.
I will run it tomorrow, fingers crossed.[/QUOTE]

28 NM or 20.65 lb-ft for an M8 sized FW snout.

What size is your FW side shaft thread?

 

[Deleted member 117362]

Ok, any recommendations of how to line it up accurately enough? I am not sure how sensitive it is.

I put a dot on the end of the crank and then a line on the flywheel so I can line it up with the nut and then tighten it.

Also I checked the nut and it has an integrated washer so it should not need to be lubricated to keep it from rotating the flywheel per my earlier question. I also lined it up and tightened it and then confirmed it did not move.

Do you have a torque spec for the flywheel nut? I did not see a spec in the manual.

I will run it tomorrow, fingers crossed.

I have cut a groove in flywheel where key was located with a dremel and fine bit. Cut an edge from a soft washer to make a key. Use washer key to make alignment correct. Clean both inside of flywheel and crankshaft with carb cleaner to remove any oil and install, torque down.

 

[lostone]

I really wish Husky would stop using the cast key.

 

[chipper1]

I have cut a groove in flywheel where key was located with a dremel and fine bit. Cut an edge from a soft washer to make a key. Use washer key to make alignment correct. Clean both inside of flywheel and crankshaft with carb cleaner to remove any oil and install, torque down.

I thought it would be fine if I ran a drywall screw in there .

@cus_deluxe .

OP, hope you get the beast going, smooth saws .

 

[mbrick]

@cus_deluxe you're a genius, thank you. It runs. I've been working on this for months and bought a lot of new parts I didn't need... including a new piston and then P&C.

Used polishing compound and ran it back and forth for a few minutes and then wiped it clean. I gave it a tad timing advance given the bit of error on visually aligning it, either its neutral or slightly advanced. How many degrees am I aiming for? Should I rig up a timing light like I have seen in a YT video?

It is an M8 nut so I used 20 ft-lb. The torque is much higher than I originally had, so maybe first pull with the new P&C spun the flywheel?