60cc chainsaw choice

[sean donato]

If echo is anything in your area like it is in mine, it's hard to find a dealer who wants to deal with the saws, let alone stocks much for them. Good saws, but heavy and lack power vs their competitors. I basically reccomened them to people I know want to save a buck and arnt concerned with power to weight ratios/speed of the cut. They are like 80's saw tech for the most part. Very reliable theough. My younger brother still has a little 30cc echo my grandfather bought new in the late 70's. Always starts and runs well. Neighbor has a 620p, I've never been impressed with its power vs weight, but it also give very little issues. Just starts and runs.
I agree with above, 90+ cc for milling. It's a miserable hard thing on a saw. Long passes at wot with (typically) very long bars. I have a 40" bar for the 394xp on a 36" Alaskan mill. It's real work for the saw and operator. If I picked it up again, I'd get a 084, 088/880 or a 3120xp, well anything over 100cc.

 

[HansFranz]

It's a lot better to hire a potable bandsaw for a day rather than ruin a chainsaw. They will mill more in one day than you could in a month with a chainsaw mill. Steve

You'll also get a lot more usable wood out of each tree, being that a chainsaw's kerf is 4X or 5X as wide as a bandmill kerf...that can end up being expensive mulch.

 

[sean donato]

You'll also get a lot more usable wood out of each tree, being that a chainsaw's kerf is 4X or 5X as wide as a bandmill kerf...that can end up being expensive mulch.

That depends on who's running the band mill. Seen plenty of crappy band saw mill jobs, leave inconsistent board thickness when the operator was pushing the mill too fast, or trying to finish out with a dull blade.

 

[Farmer_Nate]

Use the right tool for the job.
I don't know what the answer is in this case, except more saws are always better!
Go for it if you need more than one chainsaw, or band saw.

 

[Husky Man]

You haven’t mentioned yet what size log you are expecting to mill, and something that hasn’t been brought up yet is the Listed size of the mill, ISN’T the size of the log that it can mill, or how much more bar you need to mill a log at a CSM’s capacity

A mill’s listed size is the length of the mill rails, on a 24” mill, you will have about 21.5” between the guides, with the clamps set at the absolute widest possible on the mill

You lose 2.5” of milling width to the clamps regardless of mill width be it a 24” mill, or a 72” mill

You typically need 4-6” more bar length, than your mill’s listed size, unless you drill through the center of the nose sprocket and bolt the nose end of the mill, rather than clamp the nose end, which it doesn’t sound like you’re ready to get that advanced yet, and even doing that, you still don’t get the full length of the bar to mill with, More, but not ALL

Rather than milling with the mill perfectly perpendicular to the log, many tend to “lead” with the nose end of the mill, that will reduce the maximum width that you can mill a little as well

Based on your desire to use a 28” bar, a 24” mill, will be your best choice, lose 2.5” to the clamps, and an inch or inch and a half to leading, a 20” log will be a safe estimate of the diameter of logs that you will be able to mill using a 28” bar

For Very Occasional milling a 562XP will probably do the job, albeit slowly, a 70cc class saw would be the smallest I would want to use, and even that only if I had to pack everything into a remote location

Milling at home? The 3120XP every time

For small logs, I might use the 372XP in the single clamp small log mill, but I haven’t milled anything small enough to warrant using that mill yet








Doug

 

[Husky Man]

I forgot that Granberg does offer a 30” mill, that would probably be a good choice, it would allow you to later move up to a 36” bar and larger saw, but wouldn’t be much more of an initial investment, or be much more cumbersome to use with the set up you are considering

Other than the 30”, The next steps are usually 12” increments


Doug

 

[iowa_jim]

Here are more details. I'm in the mid-west, and I don't encounter many large trees. But I've got an ash tree in the yard that I need to bring down. I'm limbing her out for starters, then I'll have a 42" diameter trunk that I'd like to saw into 2" thick slabs for my woodworking. I ran into a 36" section at the city yard dump that I would have slabbed out last year if I had a suitable saw, and that's what I'd call an active period for that sort of work. So I don't have any sort of commercial need for this, and infrequent opportunities for milling at best.

I was going to start another thread with this, but there's so much overlap I'll just go for it. The idea of grabbing a 60cc saw is based on the idea that anything smaller is disposable. I'd like to have a saw that is worth maintaining and can run for years. For instance, consider the Echo 590 vs the 620. The 620 has a better build, and a little more power from the reports I've seen, but if the 620 is 'disposable' then the 590 is an easy choice. If the 620 can be maintained, then that's the one I want. In the Husky lineup, I suppose it'd be the 460 vs the 562? Any maybe the 60cc cut-off, no pun intended, no wait, I'll claim it, is wrong, but I hear a lot of hate for the homeowner and 'farm' sized models. I can echo the homeowner-sized saw hate. There, I did it again.

When I say 'disposable', for instance, say I ran a $600 saw for 3 years, and now she's worth $300 and needs a $300 repair. Disposable. So back to my first post, I'd like a saw that can start easily when she's 5 years old, requires little shop time, but it doesn't have to be the biggest / fastest / most fuel-efficient saw on the block. So for the smaller saw, say in the 40-60cc range, what saw am I describing?

And again, I appreciate all the ideas that have come forth. This site is amazing (due to it's contributors of course).

 

[WoodRaider]

Here are more details. I'm in the mid-west, and I don't encounter many large trees. But I've got an ash tree in the yard that I need to bring down. I'm limbing her out for starters, then I'll have a 42" diameter trunk that I'd like to saw into 2" thick slabs for my woodworking. I ran into a 36" section at the city yard dump that I would have slabbed out last year if I had a suitable saw, and that's what I'd call an active period for that sort of work. So I don't have any sort of commercial need for this, and infrequent opportunities for milling at best.

I was going to start another thread with this, but there's so much overlap I'll just go for it. The idea of grabbing a 60cc saw is based on the idea that anything smaller is disposable. I'd like to have a saw that is worth maintaining and can run for years. For instance, consider the Echo 590 vs the 620. The 620 has a better build, and a little more power from the reports I've seen, but if the 620 is 'disposable' then the 590 is an easy choice. If the 620 can be maintained, then that's the one I want. In the Husky lineup, I suppose it'd be the 460 vs the 562? Any maybe the 60cc cut-off, no pun intended, no wait, I'll claim it, is wrong, but I hear a lot of hate for the homeowner and 'farm' sized models. I can echo the homeowner-sized saw hate. There, I did it again.

When I say 'disposable', for instance, say I ran a $600 saw for 3 years, and now she's worth $300 and needs a $300 repair. Disposable. So back to my first post, I'd like a saw that can start easily when she's 5 years old, requires little shop time, but it doesn't have to be the biggest / fastest / most fuel-efficient saw on the block. So for the smaller saw, say in the 40-60cc range, what saw am I describing?

And again, I appreciate all the ideas that have come forth. This site is amazing (due to it's contributors of course).

To be honest, you could be describing any saw in that cc range, really. There's nothing really "wrong" with homeowner and farm saws, they're just made out of plastic, more fragile, heavier, cheaper and less powerful than their pro counterparts. For the average homeowner and firewood getter, they're a perfectly good tool. For enthusiasts and professionals, or people who just really like saws, they're lacking and not considered durable. I'm one of the latter, so I only buy pro saws.

Personally, even for beginners, I would recommend a 60cc saw as your first saw. 60cc isn't going to be crazy powerful, nor will it be heavy. It's a decent all rounder for firewood and felling small to medium size trees, which is good for learning. Not only that, but there's always going to be a place for a 60cc saw in anyone's arsenal.

To me, it sounds like you're describing any pro Husky or Stihl. Out of all the new saws I'd go for the Stihl MS 362 or the Husqvarna 562 XP. The Stihl MS 311 or Husqvarna 460 Rancher are the farm saw equivalents. Do your research and decide which one suits your needs. I will just say that the pro saws are made to be repaired and kept running for years, as the manufacturers will keep making parts even after the saw is no longer made, whereas the farm saws are made to be replaced at the end of their life.

If you want someone to just tell you what saw to get, then get the 562 or the 362 and get to cutting. Bonus points for getting a 462 or 572 instead.

 

[Ronaldo]

If you are settled on a 60cc then the 620P would be a great choice. I am partial to Jonsereds and Husqvarna and they have been good to me. I have a Husqvarna 555 and I really like it but if I was buying another in that size it would be the Echo 620. I like that I can tune them and work on em without software and computers or dealers.

 

[dudz3636]

To comment on your Echo 590/620 statement. In my opinion, there isn't a meaningful difference in build quality, per say, between the two. The 590 is a magnesium crankcase saw, the same chassis as the 620. But it does have some cheaper peripherals (clutch cover, handle) and a slightly detuned motor (porting, carburetion). The differences between a 590 and a 620 are far less significant than the MS 311 to MS362 or 460 to 562XP. The MS311 and 460 are plastic chassis saws. There's not necessarily anything wrong with that, but they tend to be more "throw away" worthy in a shorter amount of time.

If 60cc's is your target, if you want to save a fair amount of money, and aren't afraid of a traditional carb, get an Echo 590 and I doubt you'll regret it for what you'll spend on one. If you want a bit more power, electronic carb, and a slightly more compact saw, an MS362 or a 562XP will not disappoint.

 

[mountainlake]

That depends on who's running the band mill. Seen plenty of crappy band saw mill jobs, leave inconsistent board thickness when the operator was pushing the mill too fast, or trying to finish out with a dull blade.

\
If you hire a bandsaw and puts out crappy lumber send him packing, they cut good lumber when run right. Steve

 

[Cliff R]

I have ZERO experience with milling but can tell you for sure that an Echo CS-590, 600P or 620P will do a fine job cutting firewood with longer bars on them. They shine best with 20" bars but I have my CS-590 outfitted with a 24" bar and use it quite a bit for bigger logs. I also do a LOT of cross-cutting with it to make large/heavy chunks easier to manage to the splitter. Here's a pic of the CS-590's work on a HUGE Beech log. It cross cut all that material and never grumbled once. I'll also add that I have a 28" bar full skip that I run on those saws on occasion when the need arises and they are fine with it........

 

[Farmer_Nate]

Well, for cutting firewood, a nearly 40-year-old 266xp is a fun saw, and durable, in the 60 cc (sort of) range.

 

[HumBurner]

Lots of good advice in this thread.

If you're doing any milling at all, I'd head over to the milling section and read BobL's posts, 101-thread, as well as his Progressive Depth thread. Other good threads in there as well.

 

[HansFranz]

That depends on who's running the band mill. Seen plenty of crappy band saw mill jobs, leave inconsistent board thickness when the operator was pushing the mill too fast, or trying to finish out with a dull blade.

Well, yeah, but operator error applies to milling with a chainsaw, too.

Allowing for equal degrees of operator error with both milling methods, you're going to get a hell of a lot more usable wood out of a given saw log using a bandmill versus a chainsaw.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

With a BSM, every 5th board is FREE over a CSM...

That adds up pretty fast.

SR

 

[fields_mj]

I've ripped a few large logs so that I could load them easier (and take them to a mill), and I noodle big knotty rounds so I can lift them onto my splitter, but I've never milled lumber. I heat with firewood and cut around 6 cords per year, mostly hickory. I also do volunteer storm clean up work with a local charity group. I'm very mechanically oriented and I don't mind turning a wrench on my saws most of the time. I'm only familiar with Stihl and can't speak for the the other 2 brands. That said, here are my recommendations.

First, I wouldn't let your experience with the MS180 influence anything. If I were seriously considering one of those saws, I'd just go buy a cheap saw from Walmart instead.

Start with an MS261 with an 18" bar. It will do most of what you want, its light weight, and should last you 30 years or more based on the level of use you described.

If your volume of cutting increases to the point where you'd just like to buck medium size wood faster, start looking at a 400i. It hits at least 10cc above its weight class and would be an amazing saw for bucking firewood (I can't afford one....).

For milling, I'd opt for a Holzfforma/Farmertec G660 (Chinese clone of the older Stihl 066). I have one and am impressed with it so far. I have a 28" and a 42" bar for it. When ripping big logs, I used it with the 42" bar and a high output oil pump opened all the way up. From what I've read of the people who are milling with them, they are holding up great. Before you run it, get a new clutch, new mounting screws for the felling dawgs, new screws for the handle bar, a new e-clip for the drive shaft, and a high output oil pump. Total cost should be under $450 to your door. I'd go this route because you don't plan on using it much so it doesn't make sense to drop a ton of cash on the big saw. The 500i would be a great saw, but its $$$. My thought is that when you're milling with it, you don't get as much benefit from the reduced weight so you might as well safe some money. If you were cutting big trees and limbs and wanted something lighter that didn't wear you out as bad, the 500i is the ticket. For milling and/or occasional use, the big Holzfforma/Farmertec do the job very well and leave plenty of green in your pocket. Holzfforma/Farmertec also makes a clone of the Husqvarna 395 if you would rather go with orange saws. For that matter, I'm sure that Husqvarna also has a direct competitor to the Stihl 261 that's just as good. I'd stick with one brand/style though (Husqvarna, Stihl, Echo). You don't have to, but I think it makes things easier to work on when they all have a similar design.

Good luck

 

[NSEric]

Chainsaw milling is not a thing where I live.
I know 5 people within 5 minutes of my house with band saw mills. My buddy has a 20 ft mobile/portable one.
IMO if you have to mill more than a couple boards you should buy a mill or hire someone with one. The cheap ones are only a couple grand.

I burn a lot of free slab wood to heat the house and garage lol.

 

[Rich 07830]

FWIW, Echo makes very good saws, but their customer service is really bad. If you can actually speak with someone in CS, they will find every reason not to honor a warranty.

I bought my Echo CS620P from a reputable local dealer. He takes care of warranty issues. However over the past two years he has had no warranty claims. The CS620P is a fantastic value!!!

 

[Limbrat]

You'd be hard pressed in my opinion to beat the 562s. We've been running them as our main ground saws for years with no major issues whatsoever. I can't imagine the hours we have on them and you can't kill em. They will still cut with any stock 60cc saw out there. I'm pondering on purchasing a couple more because I know they won't last forever. Or will they?