660 vs 395 for milling

[excess650]

anyone else have this problem milling with a 660 ? View attachment 285404

The ONLY failure I had with the 066BB was a clutch carrier/spider that broke. It didn't even mess up the threads on the crank.

Another thing I don't like about the 066/660 is the inboard clutch. While it makes it easier to change the B&C, it also puts more heat into the powerhead than an outboard design.....trade offs!

 

[srcarr52]

I have a 36" Granberg, but have only run a 36" bar on my 066BB without bark dogs, so limited me to 32" width. The few times the 3120 was on the mill it was wearing its original 30" .404 and waltzed through stuff the 066BB was struggling with. I've just converted the 3120 to 3/8 and have a 42" B&C for it (3/8 .063 ripping chain). 30" oak and walnut made the 066BB work pretty hard.

I've not tried low-pro, so that may be a plus for the 066BB. I'm debating as to whether to get a 36" Husky bar, or just use Stihl to Husky adaptors to use my 32" and 36". I have 24" and 28" both Husky and Stihl bars, 32" and 36" Stihl, and a 42" Husky.

How big is your mill?

Home built 36", bolted instead of clamped so I'm limited to around 32.5" with the 394 on it. I got lucky and scored a NOS Oregon 36" 50 gauge Husky mount bar a while back for it so I could run lo=pro. I only have two lo-pro chains so sometimes I switch to regular 3/8's, I just have to put on a different drive sprocket.

Here is an action shot with a friend (CADDGUY) running it.

View attachment 285406

 

[excess650]

Home built 36", bolted instead of clamped so I'm limited to around 32.5" with the 394 on it. I got lucky and scored a NOS Oregon 36" 50 gauge Husky mount bar a while back for it so I could run lo=pro. I only have two lo-pro chains so sometimes I switch to regular 3/8's, I just have to put on a different drive sprocket.

Here is an action shot with a friend (CADDGUY) running it.

View attachment 285406

Where did you get a .365 sprocket to fit? I was a little concerned that the 066BB or 394 might break a low-profile chain. I've never run that on anything bigger than a 42cc Crapsman/Poulan.

While I've toyed with the idea of getting a 48" mill and 50"+ bar, it would ONLY be used for cutting crotch logs. 30" slabs of any thickness and length get heavy fast. My plan is to get another Alaskan so as to have 2 different sizes ready to cut, AND to have spare parts in case of breakage.

 

[srcarr52]

Where did you get a .365 sprocket to fit? I was a little concerned that the 066BB or 394 might break a low-profile chain. I've never run that on anything bigger than a 42cc Crapsman/Poulan.

While I've toyed with the idea of getting a 48" mill and 50"+ bar, it would ONLY be used for cutting crotch logs. 30" slabs of any thickness and length get heavy fast. My plan is to get another Alaskan so as to have 2 different sizes ready to cut, AND to have spare parts in case of breakage.

I had to make it.

 

[OldMontanaFart]

I had to make it.

Do you care to share the details of how you did that? I'm pondering trying the lopro for milling and would like to know how involved this process might turn out to be...

 

[excess650]

Do you care to share the details of how you did that? I'm pondering trying the lopro for milling and would like to know how involved this process might turn out to be...

I'm thinking Logosol sells rims and bar tips to accomodate lowpro on bigger saws. Bailey's may know...

 

[excess650]

394xp

I did have the chance to mill the boxelder log, and commented elsewhere, but will here as well. I made the first (2) cuts with my 066BB before I ran out of mill width with my 36" bar. I put the 42" on the new to me 394xp, and slabbed the remainder of the log. I tuned both saws to my ear, running my fuel, so....despite making wider cuts, the 394xp held noticeably more rpm in the cut. Its definitely stronger than my 066BB. The 394xp also oils well enough to run the 42" without concern. While the Stihl's side chain adjuster is definitely more handy, I drilled a clearance hole through the mill upright so as to have easier access for the Husqvarnas.

 

[ttyR2]

Why not buy a spare air box lid, drill a big hole in the side and glue a piece of 2 or 3ft long PVC on it. Extend it up where the sawdust isn't flying. Should stay clean a long time that way. Or route behind where the saw is so it's out of the sawdust.

 

[BobL]

I did have the chance to mill the boxelder log, and commented elsewhere, but will here as well. I made the first (2) cuts with my 066BB before I ran out of mill width with my 36" bar. I put the 42" on the new to me 394xp, and slabbed the remainder of the log. I tuned both saws to my ear, running my fuel, so....despite making wider cuts, the 394xp held noticeably more rpm in the cut.

I'd like to see this comparison done with the same fully sharpened and raker set chain before I passed any judgement.

 

[Madacobain]

Best saws.

Id take the 395 over the 660, way better torque and far stronger IMO .....If you can afford too, the 3120 or 880 is a better choice on the Mill.

I have an MS880 with a 60inch bar in an Alaskan mill, I have cut a fair bit of NZ Totara and microcarpa timber, what a bit of magic is all I can say, it pumps, I also have a 440 Stihl with a 900 bar in another Alaskin mill that I start out on a big log with, I have the depth set at 140mm for the first cut, then get the MS880 into action, saves me time in re setting bar depths but I find I only use my big bar when needed as it cost a bit of coin maintaining big bars and chains, I find the ms880 easier to use at the other end of the bar because the torch is good pulling the motor end into the log so its easier to move the saw about 4-6inches in front of the motor at the tip side of log to control the bitting in.
Another thing I do to save time is to use my spade to peel off the bark as the bark holds dirt that takes the edge off the chain so thats more down time sharpening and sharpening undually wears out chains faster. 5 minutes debarking puts big wide lengths of bark on the ground if ground is wet so good footing is saftey, plus it gets rid of lots of ants straight off. the moral of the storey is a Stihl will go lots longer in milage than any other saw, brake downs are very rear, the oldest Stihl I have is 10 years old and never ever let me down, the only other Stihl that has ever stopped or slowed down was because I cut that many slabs one day that I had to clean out the air filter, I run a rev counter on my saws for piece of mind, my 3 Stihl saws are used constantly and with that record I would never want to use another make. Stihlmilling and thats why.

 

[Big Saw man]

Well I'd have to say For-vs-Chevy to a point. The 2 saws are divergent ways of getting to the same destination. On these two Stihl and Husky had an identity crisis and swapped methodologies; the 660 has better top-end stock and is lighter, while the 395 has better torque, better A/V, more weight and MUCH better oiling. I really liked my 660 but contrary to many on here, I found the torque a bit wanting. RPM is nice when you're limbing, but when I'm trying to buck a 4'+/- Burr Oak, or large Hedge, torque pulls the chain. I would imagine a 660 would do just fine as I have seen many photos of individuals using them for exactly that purpose. However, I would prefer to have a bit more grunt. If the 3120 and 880 were out of the price range, personally I would opt for the 395 or the Dolmar 9010/Solo 394.

If I were felling large trees daily and didn't go with either a 385 or a 460/1, I would definitely choose the 660 over the 395 for it's lighter weight. However being a weekend hack, who can basically drive up to the victim(s) of the day, the next big saw will be a 395xp because of it's torque and better A/V setup. If and when I get an Alaskan mill, I believe that it would excel there too. If you have either built by any of the reputable builders on this site, the it's paper/rock/scissors... Hope this helps.

I have a new 660 and a new 395 both do great jobs milling. If you never ran both of these saws side by side anyone would think the 660 is the stronger faster saw. Not so, its louder and has a rough feel to it, it does have more low end torque to it. But the 395 is quite and smooth and if you keep the RPMs up and the chain running it will smoke the 660. Even my pawn shop 385xp will out cut it. But I have to say when I go to the woods to power cut firewood or help a friend with a tree, I take my 660s, they have a good feel and will cut all you need.