661 Muffler mod progression

Wesspur
Rugged made
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Couple things here.

1- Anyone that has seen the "baffle" on a 661. Knows it's not a restriction at all.

2- The testing you are trying to accomplish @redbull660 is great, but you must know that chains don't dull after a couple cuts? Right? That's why I wanted to run my 460 with the same bar and chain that you ran, then Matt ran with Andy's 064, then Matt ran with his 064, etc.. The money you put forth in chain is crazy. Ludicrous almost.

3- I am still on the 3 cuts on the same log team. One cut is very inconsistent. 3 cuts in each log and take an average of the 3. A little extra pressure on one cut will slow it dramatically

4- That thread did have a lot of other people's posts. I am an Administrator on another site and that would make all the members and staff mad (we have a time limit set on editing and deleting posts/threads for that very reason). There was a lot of time and energy in that thread.

5- It's just oil for Pete's sake! ;) lol (had to throw that out there)
 
DexterDay said:
Couple things here.

1- Anyone that has seen the "baffle" on a 661. Knows it's not a restriction at all.

2- The testing you are trying to accomplish @redbull660 is great, but you must know that chains don't dull after a couple cuts? Right? That's why I wanted to run my 460 with the same bar and chain that you ran, then Matt ran with Andy's 064, then Matt ran with his 064, etc.. The money you put forth in chain is crazy. Ludicrous almost.

3- I am still on the 3 cuts on the same log team. One cut is very inconsistent. 3 cuts in each log and take an average of the 3. A little extra pressure on one cut will slow it dramatically

4- That thread did have a lot of other people's posts. I am an Administrator on another site and that would make all the members and staff mad (we have a time limit set on editing and deleting posts/threads for that very reason). There was a lot of time and energy in that thread.

5- It's just oil for Pete's sake! ;) lol (had to throw that out there)
Click to expand...


1. right. so based on my results... why even take the time to remove it. However, I wouldn't mind testing one that is removed with the .875" hole vs one with baffle in place and .875" hole.

2. I've done a lot of testing...made a lot of vids. It depends on the hardness of the wood. Dirt on the bark. Wood Temp. in short it's the only way to be sure. and if you consider the effort and time into it all. You might as well be sure as you can.

3. I could agree with that. I'd argue for say 2 cuts instead of 3 but use 2 logs instead of 1. ie. 2 cuts log 1, 2 cuts log 2.

4. it wasn't an easy decision. Cost me 400 likes received. But i thought of the guy who was reading through it to learn something. There was so much mis info....and then to get to post 4,000 and we didn't figure out anything. Just a total dis-service and waste of time for joe average trying to learn a thing or two from the "ultimate oil thread".

5. as randy would say "it's kinda important ya know"
 
I don't really get what you're want someone to learn from this....average joe is gonna use dino oil @ 50:1 just like the manual says and won't even click on the thread and 99.9% of the guys on AS don't care about splitting hairs with 2 stroke oils and i would bet the guys using ratios leaner than 40:1 are by far the minority and the ones using race oil even farther.

Your intentions are good but i don't think it really matters
 
redbull660 said:
1. right. so based on my results... why even take the time to remove it. However, I wouldn't mind testing one that is removed with the .875" hole vs one with baffle in place and .875" hole.

2. I've done a lot of testing...made a lot of vids. It depends on the hardness of the wood. Dirt on the bark. Wood Temp. in short it's the only way to be sure. and if you consider the effort and time into it all. You might as well be sure as you can.

3. I could agree with that. I'd argue for say 2 cuts instead of 3 but use 2 logs instead of 1. ie. 2 cuts log 1, 2 cuts log 2.

4. it wasn't an easy decision. Cost me 400 likes received. But i thought of the guy who was reading through it to learn something. There was so much mis info....and then to get to post 4,000 and we didn't figure out anything. Just a total dis-service and waste of time for joe average trying to learn a thing or two from the "ultimate oil thread".

5. as randy would say "it's kinda important ya know"
Click to expand...

Cost you 400 likes received? Are you ****** serious?

I've witnessed over 30% gain on a new 661 with a good chain running 32:1 H1R. Explain that one
 
redbull660 said:
1. right. so based on my results... why even take the time to remove it. However, I wouldn't mind testing one that is removed with the .875" hole vs one with baffle in place and .875" hole.

2. I've done a lot of testing...made a lot of vids. It depends on the hardness of the wood. Dirt on the bark. Wood Temp. in short it's the only way to be sure. and if you consider the effort and time into it all. You might as well be sure as you can.

3. I could agree with that. I'd argue for say 2 cuts instead of 3 but use 2 logs instead of 1. ie. 2 cuts log 1, 2 cuts log 2.

4. it wasn't an easy decision. Cost me 400 likes received. But i thought of the guy who was reading through it to learn something. There was so much mis info....and then to get to post 4,000 and we didn't figure out anything. Just a total dis-service and waste of time for joe average trying to learn a thing or two from the "ultimate oil thread".

5. as randy would say "it's kinda important ya know"
Click to expand...
Your still missing the largest variable of them all IMO, see my last comment above your post. Everything else is futile.
 
Marshy said:
Your still missing the largest variable of them all IMO, see my last comment above your post. Everything else is futile.
Click to expand...
Having a tach attached to the saw is the only way to achieve this.
Its a great way to "test" all different things, like different angles on chain, muffler mods, port work, different air filters, etc .....
 

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Moparmyway said:
Having a tach attached to the saw is the only way to achieve this.
Its a great way to "test" all different things, like different angles on chain, muffler mods, port work, different air filters, etc .....
Click to expand...
Yup, and I think it would be standard to test a saw in the cut, whether your testing oil, chain angles or muffler mods like you said. If the saw makes more power it will do more work at the same RPM in the cut as a saw with less power. If it truly makes more power and does more work the cut times will be faster. This will remove a lot of variability on his testing and might be significant enough to sway him in his other conclusions he made in the oil thread.
 
Marshy said:
Yup, and I think it would be standard to test a saw in the cut, whether your testing oil, chain angles or muffler mods like you said. If the saw makes more power it will do more work at the same RPM in the cut as a saw with less power. If it truly makes more power and does more work the cut times will be faster. This will remove a lot of variability on his testing and might be significant enough to sway him in his other conclusions he made in the oil thread.
Click to expand...


now that is a good idea! so any ideas on how to attach my fast tach? Or should I get whatever tach Mopar is using?
 
Marshy said:
If the saw makes more power it will do more work at the same RPM in the cut as a saw with less power.
Click to expand...

Psst ...........
Carefull about saying work and power in the same sentence, some 'round here get uppity about things like that :laugh:

I gotta ask you about what you said though .........................
I have never noticed a saw making more power in a cut staying at the same RPM as a saw making less power in the cut.

The one making more power has allways held a higher RPM in the cut than one making less power, from what I have seen

Have you seen otherwise ?
 
Moparmyway said:
Psst ...........
Carefull about saying work and power in the same sentence, some 'round here get uppity about things like that :laugh:

I gotta ask you about what you said though .........................
I have never noticed a saw making more power in a cut staying at the same RPM as a saw making less power in the cut.

The one making more power has allways held a higher RPM in the cut than one making less power, from what I have seen

Have you seen otherwise ?
Click to expand...
No I have not, the variable becomes applying more load to the higher HP saw to get it down to the same RPM as the lower HP saw. By doing so the saw will pull bigger chips and mover more material but the chain is limited to how big of a chip it can make before you just start creating more friction. In the case of testing the same saw with different oils, I feel the chain should be adequate to compensate a larger chip for such a small variation in HP. Results might get blurred I your comparing a ported saw to a stock saw. Better going to a dyno for that IMO.
 

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