whoa ... the flywheel nut was hardly tightened on ... way below spec ... I was setting up to give the bar a quick honking to pop it loose (like for other Dolmars), but the gravity of the wrench alone was sufficient, and poof, off it came. I doubt Dolmar installed it that way. Their specs call for a torque on that nut of 30Nm (about 20 ft-lbs) and it always seems that they set them a little higher than spec ... so either this flywheel has been pulled by someone before me (uh oh-comes to mind), or the prior owner tried to use that nut (RH thread ) as backing to tighten a clutch (LH thread) on the other side. As to getting benefit of the doubt, if they were swapping out legit "parts," such as torx bolts with locking surfaces, and muffler bolts with the correct seating depth and crucial thermal expansion properties .. with flat-bottomed hex bolts ... arrghhhh!
6800i rebuild question (an eBay story ...)
- Thread starter Molecule
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spacemule
The Peanut Gallery
My bet is the flywheel has been off and that's probably when they broke a fin off. On a side note, the best way to know if the seller is clueless or not is to ask questions before the auction is over. If they don't know what they're doing or if they're trying to slip one in on you becomes obvious pretty quickly.
jimbo1490
ArboristSite Guru
There is often two ways to pull the flywheel on a chainsaw. One is to use the pair or trio of threaded holes on the flywheel face which exist either for that purpose or for another purpose such as the pull start pawls. You will need a 'crowfoot' type puller, available everywhere auto parts are sold for $10-20, and some fairly long metric bolts of the appropriate size/thread.
The other way is to use the often threaded inner hub adjacent the flywheel nut. Many mortorcycles use this method so you can find a purpose-made puller which fits this large threaded hole in many tool catalogs with motorcycle specialty tools. Or you can modify a GM air conditioner clutch puller to do the job. These are starting to show up a many auto parts stores like Pep Boys. These are much pricier but you can generally rent one cheaply(or free!) and buy a replacement inner bolt and modify it to work as a flywheel puller(the inner bolt is what differs the GM AC puller from a c'saw f'wheel puller). That way you can return the rented puller unscathed.
Jimbo
The other way is to use the often threaded inner hub adjacent the flywheel nut. Many mortorcycles use this method so you can find a purpose-made puller which fits this large threaded hole in many tool catalogs with motorcycle specialty tools. Or you can modify a GM air conditioner clutch puller to do the job. These are starting to show up a many auto parts stores like Pep Boys. These are much pricier but you can generally rent one cheaply(or free!) and buy a replacement inner bolt and modify it to work as a flywheel puller(the inner bolt is what differs the GM AC puller from a c'saw f'wheel puller). That way you can return the rented puller unscathed.
Jimbo
the triangular pullers won't work -- only one of the perimeter holes is threaded and there's no triangular pattern ... however I did find this Stihl puller on eBay ... looks like it might fit the inside diameter of the female thread in the hub of my flywheel, which is 0.805" or 20.5mm +/-. Anyone know if this Stihl puller will fit 1990's Dolmar flywheels?
[ postscript, as a note for the file ... the flywheel puller by Stihl pictured below works great with the flywheel on the Dolmar 120 Makita 6000 / 6800 series ... it cost $14 at a Stihl dealer. IMHO, after having used this tool to pull the factory flywheel, I don't think the hammer and brass drift pin would have done it. It was just on there too tight, and I wouldn't want to bang too hard on the crank, due to the danger of bending the crank at the big end bearing. ]
[ postscript, as a note for the file ... the flywheel puller by Stihl pictured below works great with the flywheel on the Dolmar 120 Makita 6000 / 6800 series ... it cost $14 at a Stihl dealer. IMHO, after having used this tool to pull the factory flywheel, I don't think the hammer and brass drift pin would have done it. It was just on there too tight, and I wouldn't want to bang too hard on the crank, due to the danger of bending the crank at the big end bearing. ]
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sedanman
Just cut the piano!!
Molecule, Give the brass drift a try (gently) before spending money on a puller that may not work. Paul
I did ... but maybe I'm doing something wrong ... I put the end of a 18" bar in the vice and mounted the separated engine (no tank etc.) so the engine could "vibrate" on the bar easily. I loosened the holding nut two turns (if the flywheel came off, I didn't want it falling off) and I lined up an 8" brass drift with the axis of the crank, and smacked it with a 20oz hammer --- pretty smart raps, maybe not quite like setting lugs in a truck hub, but smart enough I would have figured. Tried 4 raps ... still on there solid ...
Fish
Tree Freak
As far as the deal goes, negative feedback is your only recourse, if he will not try to
make you happy. As far as being deceptive, he may not have been intentionally.
I have not seen the ad. When I am selling an old saw out of the pile, I give an
accurate description, but I do not tear it down too much. He might have bought it
at a garage sale, and just slapped it up on e-bay. He obviously painted a much
prettier verbal picture than reality, but his feedback score should reflect that practice.
I am very descriptive of what I am selling, and honest, and my score reflects that.
E-bay is riskier than flea markets, garage sales, and regular auctions, so the risk of
getting burned is higher. e-mail him with the threat of negative feedback, that's all
you can really do.
As for the saw, it sounds like you should part it on out and get some of your
money back out of it.
make you happy. As far as being deceptive, he may not have been intentionally.
I have not seen the ad. When I am selling an old saw out of the pile, I give an
accurate description, but I do not tear it down too much. He might have bought it
at a garage sale, and just slapped it up on e-bay. He obviously painted a much
prettier verbal picture than reality, but his feedback score should reflect that practice.
I am very descriptive of what I am selling, and honest, and my score reflects that.
E-bay is riskier than flea markets, garage sales, and regular auctions, so the risk of
getting burned is higher. e-mail him with the threat of negative feedback, that's all
you can really do.
As for the saw, it sounds like you should part it on out and get some of your
money back out of it.
jimbo1490
ArboristSite Guru
The Stihl puller in the picture is a dead ringer for the GM AC clutch puller EXCEPT for the length of the center bolt. The center bolt is also threaded at the end on the GM puller instead of cone shaped. See if you can get a free rental on one at your local auto parts chain. Then find the metric bolt you need for the center bolt and modify it.
Jimbo
Jimbo
galde
Addicted to ArboristSite
Cleaning cylinder wall
Molecule:
I have had generally good results with cleanup of minor rougness, piston metal
smears, and scratch ridges by using a precision cylindrical object such as a
socket from a 3/4 inch drive socket set or a suitably sized clean piston as a sanding block to hold a strip of 400 grit (or finer) silicon carbide abrasive paper which is tightly wound and taped to the block. Keep the tape on the side of the block that is opposite the side held against the area to be polished. I apply pressure while twisting the block back and forth across the area to be polished. The block should be about 1/16 inch smaller than the bore to have enough room for the abrasive strip and tape. I polish only enough to knock down the ridges and smooth the raised bumps. You don't want to touch the undamaged chrome plating any more than necessary. As long as the chrome bore is substantially intact, compression can be restored. I have rejuvenated many saws that were pronounced dead simply because the piston was black and scored as viewed through the exhaust port.
Molecule:
I have had generally good results with cleanup of minor rougness, piston metal
smears, and scratch ridges by using a precision cylindrical object such as a
socket from a 3/4 inch drive socket set or a suitably sized clean piston as a sanding block to hold a strip of 400 grit (or finer) silicon carbide abrasive paper which is tightly wound and taped to the block. Keep the tape on the side of the block that is opposite the side held against the area to be polished. I apply pressure while twisting the block back and forth across the area to be polished. The block should be about 1/16 inch smaller than the bore to have enough room for the abrasive strip and tape. I polish only enough to knock down the ridges and smooth the raised bumps. You don't want to touch the undamaged chrome plating any more than necessary. As long as the chrome bore is substantially intact, compression can be restored. I have rejuvenated many saws that were pronounced dead simply because the piston was black and scored as viewed through the exhaust port.
