'92' F250 4x4; What to do?

[Sagetown]

Got my truck back last night, but it's going back in Monday. They replaced all my U-Joints, and I feel it has a problem there. About 2/3rds way home a loud humm developed, and then it began to shimmy like something is out of balance. Hope it will make the trip back to the Garage.

 

[Walt41]

Got my truck back last night, but it's going back in Monday. They replaced all my U-Joints, and I feel it has a problem there. About 2/3rds way home a loud humm developed, and then it began to shimmy like something is out of balance. Hope it will make the trip back to the Garage.

Before you attempt to drive it back, get under there and visually inspect all the new joints to make sure a cap is not ready to fall off or that one already did, having a joint unload at speed is damaging and dangerous. Also, just for my own curiosity, warm it up a little and check the trans fluid level and the transfer case level with it in park. If everything checks out, check all the tires and lugs too, just to be safe on the return trip.

 

[Sagetown]

Before you attempt to drive it back, get under there and visually inspect all the new joints to make sure a cap is not ready to fall off or that one already did, having a joint unload at speed is damaging and dangerous. Also, just for my own curiosity, warm it up a little and check the trans fluid level and the transfer case level with it in park. If everything checks out, check all the tires and lugs too, just to be safe on the return trip.

Thanks. I had already intended to check the U-Joints, but better do those other checks also since they flushed the trans., and put new shocks on. The transfer case shouldn't have been disturbed. Does it have a check port or what?

 

[Walt41]

Thanks. I had already intended to check the U-Joints, but better do those other checks also since they flushed the trans., and put new shocks on. The transfer case shouldn't have been disturbed. Does it have a check port or what?

There is a fill/check plug and a drain....can't remember if yours is a bolt head or you use a socket extension. Either way hit them with some PB or other penetrant to prevent cussing, usually the level is about 1/16-1/8 below the check port, any lower and you should add fluid, or better yet, stick a welding magnet to the drain plug and drive around a little in 4x4 and then drain and refill it.

 

[Sagetown]

I checked everything out, and all looks good. They only replaced the back drive shaft U-joints, but the hum was coming from the front. I couldn't see a check plug for the transfer case, but will look again. I'm going to drive it some more, maybe I was a little hyper.

 

[Walt41]

Did they do brakes? Any front end work? Rotate tires? Could be as simple as a thrown weight or something like a gaffed up caliper line, I once had a guy do his own brake work and left his front caliper lines pinched off for three days with vise grips and wondered why his new calipers were sticking.

 

[Halligan]

Sorry to hear about the noise/vibration issue. Could be a U-joint issue or even a broken belt in a tire. As for the transfer case I do recommend a fluid change. Usually they're filled with whatever ATF your tranny takes but double check. On the rear of the transfer case housing near where the rear driveshaft attaches their should be two plugs. One near the bottom and one about half way up. They most often have a recessed square hole in them that you fit a 3/8 drive ratchet extension in to remove. However, it may be a regular hex head as well. My advice is to make sure you can get the upper (fill plug) out before you remove the lower (drain plug). Would be a real bummer to drain the t-case and realize you can't get the fill plug out. On my Dodge's the fill level is the bottom of the fill hole. Keep us posted and please take some before and after pictures of the paint job.

 

[Sagetown]

They flushed the brakes, and transmission. I found the check plug.

 

[Walt41]

They MAY (remember I'm not standing there) have soaked your front pads in fluid during the flush by accident, some pads cannot take this and you may have a front pad that is slightly hanging up and causing the harmonic vibration you are feeling.

 

[Sagetown]

I see where they flushed the brakes, but it doesn't look bad. I jacked the front-end and spun each wheel. Man they don't spin very freely . Is that norm for a 4x4? There wasn't any apparent friction at all. I put it in 4wheel drive and drove it around. Everything seems norm at slow speeds. I'll put it on the highway Monday and see what goes then.

 

[Walt41]

I wonder if a caliper is hanging up slightly, the front wheels should spin but not real free as the internals of the front drive system are still turning. The next thing I would check is the front end alignment with some nylon string and stakes, pull the truck on the lawn and stake a 90 degree angle in front of your truck using a carpenters square and measure the distances from the front and back of the front tire sidewall at Axel height, check both sides. I know an alignment machine is the only real accurate way to do it but, you will be able to see if you have a big issue this way.

 

[Sagetown]

Got some great news, and some dissappointing news.
Here the latest scoop. Took the truck for a 16 mile drive at speeds up to 70mph, and all went well. May never know the cause of that noise and shimmering on the way home Friday. I checked everything out. Even the Transfer Case, which has never been touched in the twenty years I've owned the truck, was full of oil. It is pretty black however, so I'm going to change it my self.

The other news is; I stopped by the body shop for an estimated cost on a paint job. $3,000 low, up to $4,500 top. Was told the clear coat paint was very expensive at $200 per gallon. That's out of my ballpark for a make over. It'll just have to grow old and uglier with me.

 

[Walt41]

All is not lost

Do you have a community college or trade school near you? They are always looking for projects and all you have to do is pay for supplies. My son is taking auto and auto body courses now on his way to becoming an insurance adjuster, so far I have gotten two sets of tires mounted, all my trailer drums cut, a hood painted, brakes on my buddies truck and soon he is going to paint one of my chippers for me. It is worth investigating what your options are.

 

[Big L]

The other news is; I stopped by the body shop for an estimated cost on a paint job. $3,000 low, up to $4,500 top. Was told the clear coat paint was very expensive at $200 per gallon. That's out of my ballpark for a make over. It'll just have to grow old and uglier with me.

Wow, really?? What do they think it's a classic vette or something? Sounds steep to me. Walt has a good idea there, perhaps there is a tech school in the area ... or drive a bit further to a Maaco shop if there is one not too far away.

Glad the vibration subsided ... good news :smile2:

 

[Sagetown]

Wow, really?? What do they think it's a classic vette or something? Sounds steep to me. Walt has a good idea there, perhaps there is a tech school in the area ... or drive a bit further to a Maaco shop if there is one not too far away.

Glad the vibration subsided ... good news :smile2:

Hey Guys thanks for the tip. There are two colleges near by I can check with.

 

[Halligan]

Glad to hear the noise/vibe went away. As for paint I would personally try another place. I'm sure a Maaco style shop could do it cheaper. I was guessing around $2000 for your truck if there is not a lot of rust.

 

[Walt41]

I would one shot a work truck as well, clear coat paint would be a waste when you can get a cheaper, more durable finish for less with one shot, as a bonus it is easy to match if you have to fix any areas of damage from using it like a truck.

 

[Walt41]

Based on your vibration going away I would say rust/ gunk on the rotors. I had a 3/4 chevy that I finally got around to putting a new ignition cylinder in today and it had quite a bit of rust on the rotors from not moving for a week, it is one of my buddies plow trucks and since we have not really had a winter, he was in no hurry to drop off the new cylinder and keys.

 

[Sagetown]

Rotors. Hmm, could'ave been.
As far as paint. My SIL is an excellent auto painter. Getting him around to it is another matter. My youngest son's FIL has all the equip, and I have a shop full of junk(treasure) I could move somewhere,maybe. I'll have to talk with them and see how it goes over.

 

[Sagetown]

Well; Monday, after towing a fertilizer wagon some 40 miles, the old truck began acting up, and seemed sluggish. Came to a stop sign, and it really showed out. Couldn't hardly get across the intersection, and hobbled the rest of the way home. Transmission, I'm thinking. So checked with a couple of Trany Shops today. Both said it cost in the neighborhood of $1700-$1800 with a heavy duty Torc Converter. I called a tow service to haul the truck to the shop this afternoon.