A couple of questions on new wood stove/install

[Felix5513]

I am pretty confident that I will buy an Englander NC30 to replace my old Suburban. I am also going to cut a whole in the ceiling/roof and straight pipe it instead of using my existing chimney( for multiple reasons).

My questions are this:

1. Can I use corrugated metal on my walls as cheap hearth?

Maybe I could cut out my paneling/ drywall and put up the heat/ backer board first?

2. The NC30 requires a 6inch pipe. The ones I have measure 7 in diameter( that go up to the transfer box) and 8 inch up from there. Is that ok?




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[Oldman47]

An over-sized chimney will not give as good a draft.
Not sure what you intend to do with the wall but you need to use a non-combustible with spacers to construct the heat shield. Your stove manual should give you the details of building what is needed. If you start improvising the stove manufacturer will not back you up when you burn down the house.

 

[Felix5513]

So, should I measure the inside part of the pipe( both are double wall construction), because that measures six inch?


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[Marshy]

Inside diameter of the pipe it's the important measurement. Is it's 6" you are good. Also, finds out what the manufacturers recommended distance to combustibles is fort the stove and pipe.

 

[Felix5513]

What would be a cheap hearth idea? Something to go up the walls to reduce clearance.


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[Marshy]

My family use to have a sheet of cement board covered with brick fascia on it behind the stove. This was secured to the wall with 1-2" air gap behind the board. You could use some 1-2" long pieces of 1/2" diameter copper/pvc tube behind the board to get the air gap. Just send the screw thorugh the board and spacer to hold it in place. If you want to get fancy you could use that cultured stone veneer.

 

[TimberWolf530]

This will answer all your questions, except the cheapest material to use. It's the owners manual for the stove you're interested in.

http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pdfImages/e3/e3dda524-8c99-482d-af74-764abbb59fef.pdf

Just out of curiousity, why don't you want to use your chimney? If it will fit, installing it there with a stainless liner is the best & easiest solution.

 

[Felix5513]

I don't want to deal with any bends, 45s and surely not a ninety,which is what I have now. Also, there are a couple of holes on the inside part of the chimney block itself that don't make me feel safe. We want to put it into the corner eventually anyways.


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[Sandhill Crane]

Check with your building inspector or local fire marshal and get them on board. Here, as of twenty years ago, cement board longer met code for many wall and hearth applications. It is non combustable but still transfers heat. We used a product called Micore mineral fiber board underlayment, covered with tile for the hearth. It is quite expensive, but... You may need fire stops in the walls etc. This is no place to just wing it. Do it right the first time.

 

[Streblerm]

I have a 30nc into about a 25' tall 8"round Selkirk stainless chimney. It drafts just fine. Absolutely no problems. The install manual gives the maximum cross section size for a chimney. I don't recall what it was exactly off the top of my head but I think the maximum chimney size may have been 12x12 square.

For protection on my walls I made 1" spacers and put a layer of cement backer board covered with painted sheets of 18gauge steel. I think it is functional and attractive

.

 

[Felix5513]

It's hard for me to decide because my existing chimney doesn't draft well at all right now. I think I need to add blocks. So, it's like, do spend money there if I'm just going to straight pipe in the future anyways? I don't want to spend money twice if I don't have to.


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[Oldman47]

Felix, it seems you are going to do as you please regardless of the advice you have had so just go do it.

 

[Felix5513]

Trust me. I am listening to all of you, yet I have a tight budget. Just looking for ideas that are still bombproof.


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[Felix5513]

Does anyone know how much,if any, the heat shields on the englander nc30 and the pedestal version reduce clearances?


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[Oldman47]

Page 5 of the manual.
http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pdfImages/e3/e3dda524-8c99-482d-af74-764abbb59fef.pdf
Rear clearance requirements go from 14 inches down to 5 inches. Side and corner clearances are not affected by the shields.

 

[TimberWolf530]

Page 5 of the manual.
http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pdfImages/e3/e3dda524-8c99-482d-af74-764abbb59fef.pdf
Rear clearance requirements go from 14 inches down to 5 inches. Side and corner clearances are not affected by the shields.

That's the second time he's been given the link to the manual. Maybe he'll actually go read it this time.

 

[Felix5513]

I have already read it. It just didn't seem as clear. I emailed England's Stove Works and they clarified some things.


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[Felix5513]

So, found this beauty and installed it Saturday. Had a guy who does installs do it for me. Not the most aesthetically pleasing hearth but it does the job and is safe. The Hearthstone Heritage is so much better compared to my old Suburban smoke dragon. Got it for $1000.

This forum was crucial in how I went about this whole install. Thanks for your help.


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[CaseyForrest]

Just a word of advice, take it or leave it.

You might want to verify that your hearth meets your homeowners insurance specifications.

You may have meet the manufacturers specifications, but that doesn't mean you meet your insurers specs. When we moved into our new house, the existing wood stove was installed to the manufacturers specifications for clearance and hearth size. The insurance didn't like it and if we didn't meet their requirements our premium would increase 25%. We needed an additional 3" clearance on the sides and the hearth needed to extend 18" past the legs on the back and sides and 24" on the front.

 

[Felix5513]

I will look into it.


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