HuskStihl
Chairin'em for the sound
You should try the screaming, or at least whimpering. Seems to make me run faster
ah, run! every time. you don't need to scream but get the hell away from the stump. if you don't your a fool. it is habit with me now, i ran from a yard tree with a line in it......habit, a good one. and yes i am on video running away from the stump, there is no shame in it. falling limbs will kill you.
i only picked up a 543 and 545. i could not tell a difference in the weight but I liked the way the 545 felt better. I was impressed by the 545 when I ran one at work, nice smooth saw.
i know nothing about the 241 but honestly other than a lighter wallet what is the point of upgrading the 025 for a trim and limb saw. I know others will disagree but they light, have enough power and have been around for ever so parts are easy to find.
I think it was a good call to get rid of the 290
did you put that comma in the wrong place????at $6.99 i'll pick it up with my next order for sure. for now i got a training kit from the BC forest safety council and i find it annoying to read LOL rather get into the practical right away. i basicly just need my qualifications on paper but stupid BC gotta make it hard for us. course is $33,000 now. i go back in september.
How do you get it unpinched to throw it? Isn't the tree supposed to hinge on the saw bar?I like to throw my saw before i run and do the dance
I learned to force trees to fall in the opposite direction from a lean if the lean was not great. My my method was to cut the notch as low as reasonably possible. Next on the other side start my cut as high as I could reach with the saw and cut down toward the notch at an angle... 30 degrees or so. As the cut progresses, put a wedge in the start of the downward cut; give it a few whacks. Keep sawing downward so that the cut is almost over the notch or even over the notch. The tree is held in place with the trunk supported in shear.
Now force the wedge or two or three wedges so the trunk of the tree is forced to move in the direction you want the tree to fall. Now sure, hammering a wedge into a horizontal cut will also tip the tree's falling direction but the tree can fall backwards on you and more importantly, a wedge into a horizontal cut actually LIFTS the trunk rather than tipping it.
Interesting, but I'm having trouble visualizing what you're doing. Is your back cut sloping downward toward the face cut? And starting your back cut as high as you can reach with the saw and sloping downward.? I don't think I've ever seen that done. Sloping back cuts aren't usually accepted practice, at least not where I've worked.
Can you do a video for us to demonstrate this technique?
Too many years ago.........so many! As a teenager I worked climbing trees for about 4 years or so. I was good! During that period, we had what was known as Dutch Elm disease killing our elms and this was before the so called bucket trucks arrived. Climbing those suckers using a 1/2" Manila rope determined who was a climber. But that was yesterday.
I learned to force trees to fall in the opposite direction from a lean if the lean was not great. My my method was to cut the notch as low as reasonably possible. Next on the other side start my cut as high as I could reach with the saw and cut down toward the notch at an angle... 30 degrees or so. As the cut progresses, put a wedge in the start of the downward cut; give it a few whacks. Keep sawing downward so that the cut is almost over the notch or even over the notch. The tree is held in place with the trunk supported in shear.
Now force the wedge or two or three wedges so the trunk of the tree is forced to move in the direction you want the tree to fall. Now sure, hammering a wedge into a horizontal cut will also tip the tree's falling direction but the tree can fall backwards on you and more importantly, a wedge into a horizontal cut actually LIFTS the trunk rather than tipping it.
One additional method that has a high success is to rope the thing and pull it with the front of a truck. If you cannot get the truck to where you want the thing to fall , use a block tied to the base of another tree to run the rope though to the truck. That is IMHO, the safest way.
I'd stick to the method you described in your original post; seems to me that the various Dutchman cuts are in the advanced category for experienced professionals only. Only suggestion I'd make is to use a rigging line perpendicular to the falling direction to make sure it goes exactly where you want it to go. Rigging lines aren't cheap, but they're the cheapest tools on the job.Did not drop it yet, will post when I do, should be soon. I just emailed the owner this morning...
I'd stick to the method you described in your original post; seems to me that the various Dutchman cuts are in the advanced category for experienced professionals only. Only suggestion I'd make is to use a rigging line perpendicular to the falling direction to make sure it goes exactly where you want it to go. Rigging lines aren't cheap, but they're the cheapest tools on the job.
You have not seen Gypo's videos i take it , If there is a way to cut a tree ,he has done it .Sloping back cuts won't do anything to swing a tree, if they did professionals would do it and they don't. Walk through any log block that has been hand felled, undercut 1/3 diameter of tree, whether standard or humbolt, i was taught humbolt because standard undercut wasted wood. Backcut maybe an inch above undercut, straight and level, 1 or 2" of holding wood,(or more the larger the tree gets) be sure all your undercuts line up clean, that's how it's done. tree can be swung maybe 45 degrees away from a lean if its not leaning too bad, but there's nothing you can do at the stump to make a tree fall against a lean, other than wedging a slight lean, without pulling or pushing it over mechanically.
Try letting the tree throw the saw for you when it goes: then you will be the tree masta.I like to throw my saw before i run and do the dance
I was being sarcastic ,that is why i added the little whistle guy at the end ,the smiley guys on the forums inform readers that you are not serious in the reply .Sloped back cuts have no place in tree felling in my experienceThere's many ways to cut a tree, i just described how professional fallers in bc do it, and how i was taught when i did it, beavers are pretty good fallers, but not very accurate. I just think on a forum teaching people that may be new to it all, that industry standards a techniques should be looked at as the safest way to go about it
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