A question about ripping chain

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

rod.s

ArboristSite Lurker
Joined
Feb 22, 2011
Messages
37
Reaction score
17
Location
Newfoundland Canada
Hey guys I am new to this chainsaw milling thing so please bare with me with some of the questions I may have. I just posted my new mill in a
different thread and I am still waiting to pick up a ripping chain for my saw. The local dealer told me that he did not carry ripping chain for my saw but if I wanted he told me I could bring in a couple of my spare chains and he would re-grind them with a 10 degree angle and this would be the
same as a ripping chain. What do you guys think of this?
 
Don't do it.

Why buy a new chain with the wrong angles and grind away a bunch of it when you can order the right stuff? Might be different if you were stuck on a desert island with your chain and a grinder. And electricity. Etc.

You also don't know how good a job your dealer will do - easy to overheat when taking away that much metal.

I understand that there may currently be some backlog on some ripping chains, but you will be better off to order it from one of the supply catalogs, even if you have to pay a premium to get it fast. Start out with the right stuff, especially if you are just starting out with milling.

JMHO

Philbert
 
Since you are new, cut several slabs with your present set up then when you resharpen gradually chain the angle down to 10 deg.
Or 40/0/0, with 6 degree rakers.

If you were in the US, I'd advise you to order a few loops of ripping chain from Baileys, but since chain is so expensive in Canuckistan, there is nothing wrong with regrinding your existing chain.
 
I am kind of new to this milling myself. This is a good thread for this question.

What is the big attraction to using this ripping chain for milling?? I filed a worn chain to the 10 degree angle and set all the depth gauges to 25 thou using a feeler gauge with a flat piece of metal over the cutters. Ever since I started using this technique I have been very happy with the cutting and smoothness that results.

I was disappointed with the results after hand filing that chain to 10 degrees when compared to using the regular angles for saw chain. The cutting went much slower, finer sawdust and was working the saw harder. I used ripping many years ago to rip down big rounds for firewood splitting . I gave up on it because I couldn't see much difference using rip chain verses the regular chain. I am also going to give up on ripping chain for this chainsaw milling that I am doing.

Am I doing something wrong here or what?

Is ripping chain just for the finish look of the boards or does a ripping chain work better for something like those Logosol mills.
 
What is the big attraction to using this ripping chain for milling??
Store-bought ripping chain cuts smoother but no faster than cross-cut chain.

The cutting went much slower, finer sawdust and was working the saw harder.
You need to set rakers to 6 degrees rather than a constant 25 thou.


I used ripping many years ago to rip down big rounds for firewood splitting .
That's noodling, not ripping, and no special chain is required.

Am I doing something wrong here or what?
6 degree rakers, maybe 7 degrees for softwood, depending on your saw.

Is ripping chain just for the finish look of the boards or does a ripping chain work better
0 degree or 10 degree top plate angle makes the finish smoother, all other things equal.

A 40/0/0 grind seems to cut faster but may cause a rougher finish.
 
? Are these grinder angles? Can you clarify which angle is which?
From Malloff's book.
attachment.php

attachment.php
 

Latest posts

Back
Top