Academy of Chainsharpology

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BewtifulTreeMan

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As director of equipment, I have determined chain sharpening to be the best way for me to increase the productivity of my operation. I stink at sharpening chains. For me the best way to sharpen is using a jig, i have an oregon that clamps to the bar. When i use the jig the chain holds it's edge for far longer then if i do it by hand. I just haven' depeloped the control to keep the file at the proper degree through the full stroke. sometimes the file will catch and the file will shift, and i end up with a rounded tooth. I aspire to becoming great at sharpening by hand!

Any tips from the pros?
 
Practice practice practice. thats alll I can say. most likely its all you'll hear from the real pros too.
 
Buy a bench mounted grinder and keep three sharp chains for each saw. Have a file for an emergency. It takes much less time to change a chain than it does to sharpen it. You can pay a guy for four hours to sharpen 25 chains and they will be sharp with the rakers adjusted and the angles correct. This is far more productive than filing on the job. It's not like you won't use the chains eventually. I have at least 4 chains for every bar that I have. If you use a Borazon wheel you never have to dress it and they'll get VERY sharp.
 
I am not a "pro" but I think my chains are well sharpened. To me a clamp on guide is too involved and defeats the purpose of learning how to file--are you gonna carry it in your back pocket? I say ditch the guide and just use a file holder preferably a stihl brand as well as the files. get a good light on a good workbench at the right height so you are comfortable.
Here is my best piece of advice--when you make the stroke do not move just your arms, move your whole body. my arms function to maintain the angle/file position (make sure file holder is against depth gauge on one side and tooth in the other) My entire body moves in a rocking motion when I sharpen, this way the arms are not being asked to do more than they are capable of and the file is more rigid.
 
For me, I have found that the proper position is essential. With a saw or chain (using my own chain vice) in a vice I can sharpen pretty well. In the field it is a little more difficult. I need to have a stump vice to get the proper comfort/position to sharpen. Another that works well, not as well as a stump vice, is to cut a kerf in a log and use that to support the saw. This is what works for me\, everyone is different.
 
I don't know what uses more server resources (causing it to be "too busy").  Searching through all the copious amount of filing/sharpening discussion or repeating it afresh.

Glen
 
I agree with the whole body statement - whenever I try to push the file with my arms, I have amuch harder time keeping it straight and level.

I use a clamp on file guide, but only periodically. I do most of my filing freehand. If it looks like things are wearing unevenly, I will use the guide to touch it up...
 
Bewt,

I almost hate giving this reduntant reply, but if you do a search there are some good threads on this subject. The subject of saw sharpening has come up a few times in the last year or two.

Also, try to get a hold of a few links of new chain to carry around with you, this will serve as a guide as to how the cutters should look after you have done your filing.

Xander, what exactly is a Borazon wheel?? Never heard of that one, has to be harder than the saw chain it is sharpening, does it have diamond dust or something similar embedded in it??

Larry
 
Borazon

GE trade name for a cbn ,derived abrasive,used for super fine finishing work .In other words,synthetic diamond .I have some itty bitty little point type wheels,given to me,by a tool vender at work.I use them for porting work.I Use the file,on the chain.I'm not a grinder expert[or really an expert on anything],but,as I understand it,cbn has the ability to do the grinding,with less heat up of the part.It's hard enough to grind carbide.
 
Borazon is a trade name for Cubic Boron Nitride. Second to diamond in hardness. Stays sharp so cuts cool and holds its profile
 
BewtifulTreeMan said:
I just haven' depeloped the control to keep the file at the proper degree through the full stroke. sometimes the file will catch and the file will shift, and i end up with a rounded tooth. I aspire to becoming great at sharpening by hand!

Any tips from the pros?

If the file catches and shifts, it sounds like you're applying too much pressure. Try not being so agressive with the file. If you play pool, think pool cue.
 
Silvey Borazon

Are borazon wheels made for Silvey square grinders?
 
I think of myself as a student in this here chain business. My experience so far has been that it is very important to have everything steady. Not applying any or very little pressure on the file, makes it easy to keep the right angels.
I have looked very close on the results and tried to improve as much as i can on each file I have done.
getting a chain sharp is one thing, getting it to last is another.


That is so far what I know.
 
rmihalek said:
Are borazon wheels made for Silvey square grinders?
I believe they are. The wheel that I have is made by Dinasaw.......In Australia. It grinds cool. You can take .040 off a a damaged cutter and immediately put your finger on it (after removing the wheel) and it isn't hot. It seems to be a very fine grit wheel. One may be able to get a cutter sharper with a file but it would take much longer. I leave my rakers at .025 now because the chain is so sharp that it causes the smaller saws (50-70cc) to be grabby and bog. I still use the .030 setting on my 066 and 088's. They will throw out shavings like it's going out of style. I'll go and take a pic right now so I don't forget.
 
The sharpness of your chain, does not make your chain grabby.
 
LJS said:
The sharpness of your chain, does not make your chain grabby.

Well, something else made my chain grabby and setting the rakers to .025 made it go away.......Make you feel better.

The depth of the rakers made the chain feel grabby Einstein. :) Having a really sharp chain exacerbates this condition.

Here's couple of pics of the wheel.
 
Last edited:
Gypo Logger said:
Hi Tod, here is some of that 35RSF on a 7900 EHP, sawing on a 32" dbh Rock Maple.
John

Good news John, some of my older .050 bars will accept that .058 chain. I dressed the rails and put new sprockets on them and now they are like new. :)
 
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