Adjusting Carb.

[tomdcoker]

I have a Poulan Pro 335 That I have resurrected with new fuel lines, filter, sprocket and carb. kit. Acres site gives the max. RPMs for this saw at 13,000. I can adjust the carb. on the older saws that turn lower RPMs, but I am not to confident on the faster saws. I am using echo 2 cycle oil and Premium gas (92 or 93 octane). I read a post on this site that said run the saw WOT for 20 seconds and cut it of at same then check the plug. I know that the plug should be a shade of tan if everything is right. When I checked the plug it was a bright orange, maybe a little tan in one area. I had the saw in a cut when I shut it of and it did not die immediately, it ran for 2 or 3 seconds after switch was cut. The switch is OK. At idle it will kill the saw instantly. I bought a digital tach, but can not get it to read so I will probably take it to a saw shop and have the carb. set. Any ideas would be appreciated. Tom

 

[PES+]

There is something burning off on the inside

There is something burning off on the inside ........
old oill shards of plastic, old fuel stabilizer, spiders or something. I have seen dull orange on old saws brought out of hibernation is this bright orange?

The TAC should hane come with instructions no? does the display come on?

 

[Cut4fun]

Might try doing it by ear and then just check what you got with the tach. I do all mine by ear. http://www.madsens1.com/sawtune.htm

 

[Cut4fun]

Acres sit say 10,000 rpm for operating rpms.

Model: 335

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
MANUFACTURED BY: Poulan PRO
NASHVILLE, ARKANSAS U.S.A.
SERIES OR ASSEMBLY NUMBER:
YEAR INTRODUCED: 1988
YEAR DISCONTINUED:
ENGINE DISPLACEMENT: 3.3 cu. in. (54 cc)
NUMBER OF CYLINDERS: 1
CYLINDER BORE:
PISTON STROKE:
CYLINDER TYPE: Aluminum with chrome plated bore
INTAKE METHOD: Piston ported
MANUFACTURER ADVERTISED H.P.: not advertised
WEIGHT : 12 lbs. (5.7 Kg)
OPERATOR CONFIGURATION: One Man operation
HANDLEBAR SYSTEM: Anti-vibration, 5 rubber mounting points
CHAIN BRAKE: Manual, later anti-vibration
CLUTCH: Centrifugal
DRIVE TYPE: Direct
CONSTRUCTION: Die cast magnesium, injection molded polymer
MAGNETO TYPE: Electronic, Phelon
CARBURETOR: Walbro
MAJOR REPAIR KIT:
MINOR REPAIR KIT:
AIR FILTER SYSTEM: Nylon mesh cartridge
STARTER TYPE: Automatic rewind
OIL PUMP: Automatic, gear driven adjustable
OPERATING RPM: 10,000
I thought 13K sounded high for that saw. I have a 305,3750 and had a 330. None that high, around 10k only.

 

[tomdcoker]

I have run 3 or 4 tanks of gas through the saw, so I would think it would have burnt of an contaminates that had collected. The gas is 3 or 4 weeks old, no stabilizers except what is in the oil. Yes it is what I would consider bright orange. The tach came with instructions. It will not read the reflector that I use on the sprocket. I even painted the sprocket black so the reflector would show up better. When I finish trying to get a reading it shows 0 RPMs, so I think the unit is good. I could not find a 335 on acres site, but I found a 336 and it said that it replaced the 335. The 13,000 RPMs came from the information for the 336. Thanks Tom

 

[tomdcoker]

I have run 3 or 4 tanks of gas through the saw, so I would think it would have burnt of an contaminates that had collected. The gas is 3 or 4 weeks old, no stabilizers except what is in the oil. Yes it is what I would consider bright orange. The tach came with instructions. It will not read the reflector that I use on the sprocket. I even painted the sprocket black so the reflector would show up better. When I finish trying to get a reading it shows 0 RPMs, so I think the unit is good. I could not find a 335 on acres site, but I found a 336 and it said that it replaced the 335. The 13,000 RPMs came from the information for the 336. Thanks Tom

 

[PES+]

Do you have a digital camera?

I'd love to see that TAC I haven;t seen one of that type in years. I could never get that type to be reliable but I wonder if they improved them.

Where did you buy it?

 

[PES+]

I meant for reasonable money......I have used them in other work and the expensive ones work

 

[tomdcoker]

I bought it on ebay and I had it for three or four months before I tried it, so if it was warrantied it is probably out. Tom

 

[PES+]

Is this correct?

I have a Poulan Pro 335 That I have resurrected with new fuel lines, filter, sprocket and carb. kit. Acres site gives the max. RPMs for this saw at 13,000. I can adjust the carb. on the older saws that turn lower RPMs, but I am not to confident on the faster saws. I am using echo 2 cycle oil and Premium gas (92 or 93 octane). I read a post on this site that said run the saw WOT for 20 seconds and cut it of at same then check the plug. I know that the plug should be a shade of tan if everything is right. When I checked the plug it was a bright orange, maybe a little tan in one area. I had the saw in a cut when I shut it of and it did not die immediately, it ran for 2 or 3 seconds after switch was cut. The switch is OK. At idle it will kill the saw instantly. I bought a digital tach, but can not get it to read so I will probably take it to a saw shop and have the carb. set. Any ideas would be appreciated. Tom

So you hit the kill switch with the saw wide open under load?

 

[tomdcoker]

Yes, I thought this would give a true reading on the plug. Tom

 

[PES+]

Not a good way

You misunderstood
you should let off the throttle and THEN shut it off. Now I understand why the orange residue and most of that type ignition on that saw doesn't like to stay shorted. The orange and the delayed stop are normal.

How do you like it?

 

[tomdcoker]

Adjust carb.

If you are talking about how I like the saw. It is a great saw. I had a Stihl 036 recently that I worked on for a customer and I like this saw better than the Stihl and I like Stihl saws. This one just seems to fit in my hands better. Cranks fourth pull cold and one pull hot. Will set and idle until it runs out of gas. I just am not sure about the RPMs and I do not want to burn it up. I have a Pro mac 10-10 s that is a great running saw and cuts good, but I have learned by reading this site that no saw is going to cut good unless the chain is set up right. I think I am beginning to get the hang of sharpening, lower drags and clean out gullets. Tom

 

[PES+]

I like them too that's why I asked.

Been thinking about doing a sound recording of the 4-stroking burble so people get an idea of what it sounds like.

 

[tomdcoker]

I have listened to the one on Madsens" site and I am not sure what I hear. I am a retired Teamsters (driving trucks) so my hearing is not great. Tom

 

[PES+]

Have you tried headphones

Have you tried headphones of decent quality plugged into the sound card? Preferably full ear type
These cheesy speakers I have you can'r make out much and you probobly have similar ones I would imagine

 

[tomdcoker]

I use sponge plugs. My son is a pilot for northwest and I have planned on talking him out of an old pair of head phones. Since you are familiar with poulan pros, I have a 305 that I plan on resurrecting. I have only got to the point where I crank it with gas mix in the carb. It will not crank, it will try, but I can remove the muffler and it will crank on one pull. I have removed the spark arrester and the baffle and drilled 4 quarter in holes in the front of the muffler. There is no restriction , I have cleaned out all the carbon. O yes, the saw has 135 # compression. Tom

 

[PES+]

Depends on where you drilled the holes. If I remember right those have an internal screen parallel to the bar and the screen can plug solid, If you drill outside that screen the engine still sees a plug

Are any of the holes you drilled in between the muffler bolts?

 

[tomdcoker]

I removed the spark arrester screen and the part that you are talking about (I call it a baffle). I drilled the holes across the bottom of the front of the muffler. The only thing left in the muffler is the part that the spark arrester fits over (screws go down each side and supports front half of muffler). There is no restriction in the muffler, yet it will not crank unless you remove the muffler. Then one pull and it is running. I am no expert on anything, but this is beyond me. Tom

 

[PES+]

Oh oh

There is a good possibility the muffler bolts or at least one of them has been replaced with one too long and poked through the cylinder. Take the muffler back off and see if you can feel with your pinkie finger if there is a bulge or break in the cylinder wall on the inside where the bolts thread in I have seen that only twice and once I know the guy did it himself drilling out a broken bolt and then running a tap too deep. The other time I have no explanation for other than the guy kept cranking on the bolt till it pushed the cylinder liner in. Neither was this specific saw but it can happen