simplest and easiest thing is to use a dutchmen block, take of chunk out of the face chunk stick in the face opposite where you want the tree to go, I.E. if you want it to go left, stick the block on the right.
The soft dutch is more or less the same thing, except you leave the "block" as part of the stump, and make a series of cuts to help keep the tree moving, lets it sort of roll around nice and smooth.
Then the standard dutchmen block is just a mismatch of the face cuts, where as the gun cut is deeper then the slope cut, creating a step. Most times I'll purposefully cut off the off side from the face severing the hold wood on that side before I even start the back cut.
For steering a dutch block is usually left on the one side of the stump.
A kerf dutch is used to make the tree hop a bit and clear the ground quickly, its just a mismatched cut that is even across the stump, that step between the hold wood and the slope cut on the face acts like a speed bump. This should absolutely not be tried on any chair prone timber, it can cause a stall which will then cause a chair...
The siswheel, is a basically a modified block cut, but focused on one side of the stump, the idea being to maximize hold wood on the side you want to turn too, if done correctly they can and will pull the roots out of the ground. I try to place my sis's about middle of a root swell, or a little infront. Make them as tall as you want, I've seen pics of some that went from waist high to nearly digging in the dirt.
All these tricks are just that tricks, once a guy figures them out they work fairly good, but its like playing poker, you have to play the hand your dealt, trees do fight back, and gravity is a fickle *****. DO NOT count on any of these if you plan on working near any high value targets.
Some good folks to look for on YOUTUBE would be hotsaws101, and Tarzantree, both former/current? members here. You can also go back through the falling pics thread and pick up whats left, some pictures are missing.
