Adventures in Edging

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Thanks MtnGun

I can see now that there is a lot more planing to do than taking out a tape measure and saying I can get this and this board out of my with. It sure makes a difference when you can see what is needed to be done to work around flaws in the wood to get the best lumber you can.

Billy
 
what are you building with the hard earned lumber?
See the "what are you building" thread. This project is sucking up a lot of wood.
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if you need circular saw blades -

Circular saws and blades -
I was ripping along and my blade wasn't doing to well (7.25, 24T NOT carbide) so I switched saws to one that had an 18T carbide blade on and ripped my plank.

Then I thought I'd come here to review recommendations for blades. Saw mtngun's comment about $10 Home Depot. And I knew I was going to want inexpensive blades.

So I popped to Amazon and looked up 18tooth blades. Found
Shark Pro-series (10 Pack) 7-1/4 inch 18 Teeth Carbide 5/8" arbor hole DKO Thin Kerf ATB Circular Saw Blade "Ship FREE buy $50+"
. Thought, not bad. Then while looking for a review for "Shark Pro-series (10 Pack) 7-1/4 inch 18 Teeth Carbide 5/8" arbor hole DKO Thin Kerf ATB Circular Saw Blade" found a site with the same blades but 24T sold by the same place (TriTek) for $30 plus $11 shipping as a Promo, which linked BACK to Amazon.

Bottom line I bought 20 blades for $60 + $17 shipping, or $3.85 a blade.

/edit - I hope those extra 6 teeth don't slow me down.

I did find 1 review for their 24T blade, which said it was good. I didn't have the guts to buy 200.

Note - porter cable had some NON-carbide blades for $1.40@, but those go like candy.
 
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The woodworkers on the forum will know much more about this subject, but in general, circular saw blades seem to be one of those items where you get what you pay for.

That said, the econo-home depot blades work fine. I'm also using one of the 10" econo-home depot ripping blades on my table saw with good results.

24T is a general purpose blade.

18T or 16T for ripping. Similar to skip chain, fewer teeth means the motor doesn't have to work as hard. Your circular saw will thank you for it.

The letter is worn off my ripping blade, so I'm not sure what brand it was. I only remember that the lettering was blue and the rest of the blade was unpainted. The HD website shows an "Avanti Pro" 18T ripping blade for $7. It seems to fit the description, but I'm not 100% certain its the exact same blade that worked so well for me.
 
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The woodworkers on the forum will know much more about this subject, but in general, circular saw blades seem to be one of those items where you get what you pay for.

That said, the econo-home depot blades work fine. I'm also using one of the 10" econo-home depot ripping blades on my table saw with good results.

24T is a general purpose blade.

18T or 16T for ripping. Similar to skip chain, fewer teeth means the motor doesn't have to work as hard. Your circular saw will thank you for it.

The letter is worn off my ripping blade, so I'm not sure what brand it was. I only remember that the lettering was blue and the rest of the blade was unpainted. The HD website shows an "Avanti Pro" 18T ripping blade for $7. It seems to fit the description, but I'm not 100% certain its the exact same blade that worked so well for me.

Hi Mtngun.
The Avanti blades are made by Freud. They also make Diablo blades. You might want to try a dedicated ripping blade. Most of the blades are primarilly crosscut, although they are labled "combination".
I have had good luck with Freud, Tenyrue, and great luck with Forest.
Forest blades are more money but are professional quality.
Thanks for a great post. Lots of info.

Jason
 
Hi Mtngun.
The Avanti blades are made by Freud. They also make Diablo blades. You might want to try a dedicated ripping blade. Most of the blades are primarilly crosscut, although they are labled "combination".
I have had good luck with Freud, Tenyrue, and great luck with Forest.
Forest blades are more money but are professional quality.
Thanks for a great post. Lots of info.

Jason

I run a Freud Diablo thin-kerf on my circular saw. That thing cuts 2" Douglas Fir like butter, and it's a direct-drive!

Dan, you need a tablesaw! Then you only need to snap and cut one line.
 
I run a Freud Diablo thin-kerf on my circular saw. That thing cuts 2" Douglas Fir like butter, and it's a direct-drive!

Dan, you need a tablesaw! Then you only need to snap and cut one line.
Hard to feed a 12' long board through a tablesaw by yourself, unless you have good support at both ends -- and a shop to hold it.
 
mtn
really nice work
assume you will be milling your siding...
something I saw on an Amish built barn years ago, horizontal siding with the top and bottom edges cut on parallel angles 30 or 45 degrees to form a bit of a seal. saves ripping all the battens and you can use different width boards, just keep the same width on each course-just an idea if you haven't seen it
when are your suction cup booties coming?
 
Korkers will be here by Friday, then it's a matter of getting some perfect weather with no precip or wind.

Battens are more for fastening and cosmetics, many local barns leave a one inch gap between siding boards for ventilation. I gotta talk to my tax assessor and see how the choice of siding will affect the assessment.
 

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