Advice on Tools for Stihl Rebuild.

[Jibber]

Had a problem.. ran the saw without oil in the gas. You might have seen my previous thread.

Well, I had a guy tear it down and hone the cylinder. Then he lost interest. What I'm left with is two boxes and a torn down Stihl 039. I've got a service manual coming. I'm still trying to figure out whether to just put a new piston in, or go for an aftermarket piston/cylinder kit. They can be had for pretty cheap. Stihl parts, on the other hand.. yow. Might as well buy a new saw.

Anyway.. now here are my questions. I've never messed with a chainsaw innards before although my father was an auto machinist and I've been around engines.. just not for a long time.. at least not tearing them down and rebuilding them.

I need advice on what tools I'll need to get this machine back together. I actually have an old ring compressor that may work with this piston. I also keep hearing about a "piston stop". Not sure what that is..

anything else I need to know.. or any good threads you've seen on the subject. I've done some searching through the forums.. Just trying to get a feel for things and learn from others mistakes.

that's what I like best about these forums!

and thanks ahead of time.

 

[crashagn]

Well dont know what exact tools you'll need.. but i sure do know what a piston stop is.. Device that screws down into yer spark plug hole and will actually stop the piston, mainly used to hold the crankshaft while taken a flywheel off.. Better on the saw then just usin a impact wrench to zip them bolts off. Some other things you might look for if you dont already have them is a good decent torque wrench, feeler gages, 6 point socket set in both metric and standard. From doing alot of reading on this site (Thanks yall for all the info) honing a cylinder is not advised in alot of situations due to the type of material that used. Iam very sure in a matter of time someone else will answer this question also.


( good ole heat wrench is my preference but not wise to use on a saw)

 

[Jibber]

I do have all the tools you mention. I guess what I'm looking for is "speciality" tools for use with this kind of a small engine. And any tips on things to look for.. to make sure I do.. things that may not be mentioned in a service manual.

I figured the piston stop was just as you mentioned. Since the flywheel is already off I won't need that.. well. At least not THIS time.

I notice Baileys lists a piston kit for this.. but I can't find a piston/cylinder kit on their site.

I notice piston/cylinder kits on ebay.. but I like dealing with regular parts suppliers for this kind of thing. Any advice on where to find a cylinder for an 039?

 

[THALL10326]

Had a problem.. ran the saw without oil in the gas. You might have seen my previous thread.

Well, I had a guy tear it down and hone the cylinder. Then he lost interest. What I'm left with is two boxes and a torn down Stihl 039. I've got a service manual coming. I'm still trying to figure out whether to just put a new piston in, or go for an aftermarket piston/cylinder kit. They can be had for pretty cheap. Stihl parts, on the other hand.. yow. Might as well buy a new saw.

Anyway.. now here are my questions. I've never messed with a chainsaw innards before although my father was an auto machinist and I've been around engines.. just not for a long time.. at least not tearing them down and rebuilding them.

I need advice on what tools I'll need to get this machine back together. I actually have an old ring compressor that may work with this piston. I also keep hearing about a "piston stop". Not sure what that is..

anything else I need to know.. or any good threads you've seen on the subject. I've done some searching through the forums.. Just trying to get a feel for things and learn from others mistakes.

that's what I like best about these forums!

and thanks ahead of time.

You dont need many tools to toss that thing back together. Lets see, you'll need a piston stop, cost about a buck, you'll need a tube of Dirko sealer for the engine pan, 5.00, a T-27 Torx driver,8.00, perferrably a long one, and you will need a speciall ring compressor made especailly for that saw, cost about 3-4 bucks. Your typical type compressor will NOT work on that saw. This ring compressor is merely a wide piece of plastic that actually locks after you compress the rings. The edge of it goes up into the cylinder a tad with the piston, thats why your regular type compressor won't work. Go spend 10.00-20.00 and get the tools you need, if you don't you will indeed regret it, trust me I know. Done many of those saws and that specail ring compressor is a must unless you got one good heart for the temper fits will will throw without it.

 

[hornett22]

i always found C4 handy when working on a stihl

actually,baileys or ebat should have what you need.i make alot of my own tools as well.

 

[Jibber]

When you say "special" ring compressor for the saw.. do you mean special for the 039? I notice baileys has ring compressor kits.. looks like several plastic band compressors of different sizes.. will that do it?

have the torx..

need the dirko..

 

[Ax-man]

A convetional ring compressor for 4 strokies isn't paratical for chainsaw, you won't be able to remove the ring compressor because of the connecting rod after you get the piston up into the cylinder, use your fingers if you only are going to do this once, I have heard of some guys using a hose clamp to compress a ring, not my choice for this task. A piston stop is for clutch work to keep the piston from moving while you remove a clutch, this should have been done already.

The piston should have an arrow on it, point the arrow toward the exhuast port. I am assuming your bearing and seals are on the crankshaft, then the jug can be fitted down over the piston, don't twist or rotate the jug, keep everything in a straght line or you will get a ring in one of the ports. Also a small light film of sealant needs to applied to the bottom of the cylinder and the crankshaft bottom, don't use much sealant as there should be some machining slots where the two halves mate, the sealant just needs to fill the little voids between the two halves.

I haven't taken an 039 engine apart but they should be the almost the same as the other Sthil modular engines like 025, 021. If I am wrong on this someone step in here and correct me. This should at least get the engine back together.

 

[Dan Forsh]

Okay, I don't have personal experience of the 039, but from my experience you will need a long T handle T27 Torx driver, you are going to need a piece of wood with a slot in it to hold the piston steady when you try to mount the cylinder back on it, a ring compressor, I don't know why, but would probably trust what Thall is telling you about that model. Me personally, I've managed to get away with cutting a band of plastic from the cap off an aerosol can for everything I've done to date. You WILL need a piston stop to put the flywheel back on. Many here swear by a short length of cord stuffed in through the plug hole to chock the squish gap rather than buying an actual piston stop. Make sure the piston is above the ports before you stuff it in there, otherwise you might get a bit stuck in the port. Sealant as others have said. Everything else, I think you are good to go.

Dan

 

[Lakeside53]

Don't use a screw in piston stop on the 039.. it has and angled plug hole and you can punch a hole in the piston. The correct piston stop is a plastic "spoon", but a coil of 3/8 rope works better. You'll need to to torque the flywheel and clutch down.

Listen to Thall...


... and get the stihl ring compressor guide.. a litle piece of plastic that cost little but will save you a pile of grief when gettting the the rings past the base flange and into the bore.

 

[Lakeside53]

I've managed to get away with cutting a band of plastic from the cap off an aerosol can for everything I've done to date.

Dan

Not on the 029-> 039... Base flange and recessed cylinder gets in the way..

 

[Dan Forsh]

Not on the 029-> 039... Base flange and recessed cylinder gets in the way..

"...but would probably trust what Thall is telling you about that model."

Yep, that's why I don't comment on anything I've never worked on.

What are those types of saw like to work on where the cylinder forms part of the crankcase?

 

[Another Bucker]

mity vac

To complete your tool kit get a mityvac with the dual converter. Or built a homebrew rig to vacuum and pressure test with. A factory service manual helps also. Just my .02. Happy rebuilding.

 

[Lakeside53]

"...but would probably trust what Thall is telling you about that model."

Yep, that's why I don't comment on anything I've never worked on.

What are those types of saw like to work on where the cylinder forms part of the crankcase?

The series in question: 029, 0290, 310, 039, 390.

Others (but less of a problem with ring insertion...) - 021, 023, 025, 210, 230, 250...


etc...

 

[59Billy]

Any thoughts on the Wiha tools sold by Bailey's?


http://store.baileys-online.com/cgi-bin/baileys/1955?mv_session_id=o3WDSxdq&product_sku=WTK

 

[Dan Forsh]

They look nice but sound a tad on the expensive side for what you actually need.

 

[Jibber]

OK..

got the service manual on the way.

gotcha on the plastic spoon. I have seen that item.. just forget where.. maybe ebay.

haven't found that sealer yet. I'll hit the local Stihl dealer and see what they use.

great info from all of you and much thanks all around.

 

[RiverRat2]

Dirko HT sealant

OK..

got the service manual on the way.

gotcha on the plastic spoon. I have seen that item.. just forget where.. maybe ebay.

haven't found that sealer yet. I'll hit the local Stihl dealer and see what they use.

great info from all of you and much thanks all around.

Its expensive though,,,, about 17.00 for a tube but it will last for ever if you keep it sealed good,,,, Permatex Anerobic is also good or Yahma bond will work as well!!!!!!!!!

 

[jonseredjohn]

I don't beleive you will need a ring compressor,as the cylinder has a gradual
taper at its base to compress the rings.Use muriatic acid and some emery cloth to remove and aluminum transfer on the cyl. walls,reapplying until all the aluminum is removed and the cyl. walls are complely smooth.

 

[West Texas]

Trust Tom and Andy; both are giving you accurate information about the special tool for clamping the rings on the 029/039 saw series. Its a ?????, trust me, been there and done that. Any Stihl dealer can sell you this or some might even loan it to you; but, its a bargain buy it, especially in case you ever have to work on that saw again.

Personally, I'd rather work on any other Stihl series.

Now if you are using the current jug, then it is already threaded for the torque bolts. On the other hand, if you have to buy a new cylinder, the holes for the four installation bolts are NOT threaded; but, the bolts are self threading as you install them through the cylinder mounting holes. I think you will be well advised to screw the bolts through the holes; before hand, this will make installation of the cylinder go a lot easier when you install it.

Plus, as Tom can tell you, I actually twisted two of those bolts in two, when trying to put them in the new jug. Had to drill one out of the hole; and, took vice grip pliers to remove the other one. Make darn sure you are installing them 'straight on' and not at an angle of any type.

 

[Bowtie]

OK, I think Im gonna get rid of my new 290 after reading all of this. I keep hearing bad news about working on this series saw. Maybe trade up for a 361.