Advice wanted for pulling a tree over using a cable.

[clearance]

I am not sure but the clamps in the picture may be on backwards. There is a saying to remember, never saddle a dead horse. You have the u-bolt, the saddle and the nuts. The saddle should not go on the dead side of the line, which is the side of the eye with the end of the line. The live side is the longer side.
A kink will weaken the line but the saddle wont. You want the saddle on the live side of the eye which takes most all of the strain.

You are right. Saddle-live.

 

[Crofter]

You are right. Saddle-live.

I must be interpreting the picture wrong then as I see the dead end as being on the left under the U bolts and the saddles on the load bearing part. In any case you are right about the rule. The U bolt bites into and weakens the cable more than the saddle does so should not be on the live support part of the cable.

I think rope is a lot more user friendly, cheaper, and reusing it if your knots are good, does not kink or damage like with a cable does. Cable has too much memory!

 

[John Ellison]

I have a 15' a 50' and a 100' length of 3/8'' cable that I have used a lot in the last 10 years and there is not a bad place or a kink anywhere in them.
But I agree, for pulling a tree good arborist rope is a lot easier to work with. For dragging a log wire rope (cable) is best for abrasion resistance.

Looking at the picture again I am not sure at all which way it is. Your right it is on the left side, but lo0oks more in line with the other??

 

[randyg]

I know a guy that wants me to pull down a very rotten tree for him. Not for money, I just owe him a favor. Is anyone willing to give me some advice on how to properly use steel cable to complete such a task? I know most of you don't care too much for me after the whole "I'm gonna spike pines in my free time" saga. But this is a relatively harmless job, no targets at all, as long as I KNOW HOW TO USE CABLE PROPERLY. I'm purchasing a 200 ft reel of cable, some thimbles, and some rope clips. I think I've got the jist of using a thimble and rope clips on the "come-along" end, but I'm unclear about how the cable should be properly fastened to the tree. I could put a rope on it and probably snatch it down with a 4X4, but I want to learn some basic cabling techniques if anyone is willing to share their knowledge.



thanks in advance,

Why cable? In beginning, you should be looking for more multipurpose tools and equipment. Cable is clumsy, heavy, stiff, difficult to attach to mid-line, and not overly versatile. If its not too late, you might instead buy a 150 or 200 feet of 9/16 or 5/8 bull rope. With a weight on a small line thrown into the tree, you can pull the bull rope in with the smaller line, and then with a running bowline have your rope in the tree without climbing. Make sure and isolate one limb only for running bowline, as two or more can break limb in mid pull, and will also damage rope. Line high in tree gives better mechanical advantage than lower tie in point. Dead trees are usually not fun to climb and sometimes dangerous. If you pre-tension the bull rope to much before making the cut, very good chance that either during the back-cut, or sometimes even when making the face cut, the hinge will crack and the tree will shake sending limbs down on your head. This falling dead wood should not be taken lightly, as it accounts for many injuries and deaths every year. A large dead limb can hang on through 70 - 80 mile per hour winds, but a slight shake from just tapping in a felling wedge in the back-cut can send it down on you. Hooking to just a vehicle can get you in trouble also if vehicle is not heavy enough. Keep in mind that tying to rear end of a rear wheel drive vehicle will lift and you have less traction than you planned. If possible turn that bull line at base of another tree with a pulley and then hook to vehicle. With this rope, you can attach mid way easily with a prusik, use it to lower tree parts, and many other applications than cable.

WORK SMART

WORK SAFE

 

[GLOBOTREE]

Pulling Tree Over with a cable"Dont do it"

I know a guy that wants me to pull down a very rotten tree for him. Not for money, I just owe him a favor. Is anyone willing to give me some advice on how to properly use steel cable to complete such a task? I know most of you don't care too much for me after the whole "I'm gonna spike pines in my free time" saga. But this is a relatively harmless job, no targets at all, as long as I KNOW HOW TO USE CABLE PROPERLY. I'm purchasing a 200 ft reel of cable, some thimbles, and some rope clips. I think I've got the jist of using a thimble and rope clips on the "come-along" end, but I'm unclear about how the cable should be properly fastened to the tree. I could put a rope on it and probably snatch it down with a 4X4, but I want to learn some basic cabling techniques if anyone is willing to share their knowledge.



thanks in advance,[/First of all I missed the whole "I am gonna spike the pine trees incident" so I could care less honestly. But something just doesnt sound right about what you are planning to do here for this guy, you say there is no money exchanging hands, right? First, let me know where your getting 200 ft. of cable and all that hardware for nothing and I will get a roll as well. Second , yer gonna have to fasten the cable anyways so why dont you just fasten a rope and pull it over with tha? its a waste of cable and by the way, dont use a truck unless there is nothing else to anchor to. And only use the truck as an anchor if you absolutely have to, its not a good idea at all. Check for nests too, if its hollow it could have a nest of some sort, and you dont want to be cleaning up dead wildlife for free either!:computer: :computer: QUOTE]

 

[GLOBOTREE]

Why cable? In beginning, you should be looking for more multipurpose tools and equipment. Cable is clumsy, heavy, stiff, difficult to attach to mid-line, and not overly versatile. If its not too late, you might instead buy a 150 or 200 feet of 9/16 or 5/8 bull rope. With a weight on a small line thrown into the tree, you can pull the bull rope in with the smaller line, and then with a running bowline have your rope in the tree without climbing. Make sure and isolate one limb only for running bowline, as two or more can break limb in mid pull, and will also damage rope. Line high in tree gives better mechanical advantage than lower tie in point. Dead trees are usually not fun to climb and sometimes dangerous. If you pre-tension the bull rope to much before making the cut, very good chance that either during the back-cut, or sometimes even when making the face cut, the hinge will crack and the tree will shake sending limbs down on your head. This falling dead wood should not be taken lightly, as it accounts for many injuries and deaths every year. A large dead limb can hang on through 70 - 80 mile per hour winds, but a slight shake from just tapping in a felling wedge in the back-cut can send it down on you. Hooking to just a vehicle can get you in trouble also if vehicle is not heavy enough. Keep in mind that tying to rear end of a rear wheel drive vehicle will lift and you have less traction than you planned. If possible turn that bull line at base of another tree with a pulley and then hook to vehicle. With this rope, you can attach mid way easily with a prusik, use it to lower tree parts, and many other applications than cable.

WORK SMART

WORK SAFE[/Ya mon! that says it QUOTE]

 

[Husky137]

Why pull over a tree that can be felled with the lean in the first place?


"Learning" how to use the wrong tool for this job sounds like it simply has the potential to overly complicate and make a dangerous job, more dangerous.

 

[turnkey4099]

I must be interpreting the picture wrong then as I see the dead end as being on the left under the U bolts and the saddles on the load bearing part. In any case you are right about the rule. The U bolt bites into and weakens the cable more than the saddle does so should not be on the live support part of the cable.

I think rope is a lot more user friendly, cheaper, and reusing it if your knots are good, does not kink or damage like with a cable does. Cable has too much memory!

Yes, the saddle is on the wrong side. Been doing it that way for ...hmm...since I was a kid. Noone ever bothered to tell me it was the wrong way. Thanks. Never to late to learn. Looks like I will be redoing a batch of cables and tow straps.

Harry K

 

[fireball33]

why not get one of these from Baileys ---- Maasdam Pow' R-Rope Puller
and a hank of rope instead of cable
i'm with the others that said cable is heavy and clumsy and wants to
kink and that it is definitely a pain to work with unlike a rope

good luck
and work safe


opcorn:

 

[TheTreeSpyder]

All ways and always deform the Standing Tension Part less

1 of my all time favorite wench, cable, hardware, basic rigging sites

 

[davej]

I too bought cable before I knew about good rope. I always put the cable around the tree so I end up with 100ft length rather than 200ft. Use three anchor shackles to join the two ends.

 

[Stihl Alive]

Why cable? In beginning, you should be looking for more multipurpose tools and equipment. Cable is clumsy, heavy, stiff, difficult to attach to mid-line, and not overly versatile. If its not too late, you might instead buy a 150 or 200 feet of 9/16 or 5/8 bull rope. With a weight on a small line thrown into the tree, you can pull the bull rope in with the smaller line, and then with a running bowline have your rope in the tree without climbing. Make sure and isolate one limb only for running bowline, as two or more can break limb in mid pull, and will also damage rope. Line high in tree gives better mechanical advantage than lower tie in point. Dead trees are usually not fun to climb and sometimes dangerous. If you pre-tension the bull rope to much before making the cut, very good chance that either during the back-cut, or sometimes even when making the face cut, the hinge will crack and the tree will shake sending limbs down on your head. This falling dead wood should not be taken lightly, as it accounts for many injuries and deaths every year. A large dead limb can hang on through 70 - 80 mile per hour winds, but a slight shake from just tapping in a felling wedge in the back-cut can send it down on you. Hooking to just a vehicle can get you in trouble also if vehicle is not heavy enough. Keep in mind that tying to rear end of a rear wheel drive vehicle will lift and you have less traction than you planned. If possible turn that bull line at base of another tree with a pulley and then hook to vehicle. With this rope, you can attach mid way easily with a prusik, use it to lower tree parts, and many other applications than cable.

WORK SMART

WORK SAFE

I'm really glad I came to you guys first. I haven't purchased any cable or accessories yet, something told me to wait and get more input. EDIT: got it Would you recommend this: http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=916DB+150&catID=295


thanks so much for all of your input, you've probably saved me a lot of money and frustration.

 

[TheTreeSpyder]

Yes; iff it is in SWLrange, don't want elastic response from line and can use it for other things.

The warning about pre-tensioning is apt; but at the same time will give less impact at start of pull so is safer that way? i guess it depends on the situation and how you count the risks, when you take them etc.

i recommend not only brain bucket for felling, but also a rolled up towel across shoulders if anything is over head.

A number of men have been killed, crippled etc. by taking a widowmaker across shoulders/ neck area even with hard hat. Towel is not the worst thing to have comfort, sanitation, protection, first-aid etc. wise; unless ya let it get in the way..

 

[randyg]

I'm really glad I came to you guys first. I haven't purchased any cable or accessories yet, something told me to wait and get more input. EDIT: got it Would you recommend this: http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=916DB+150&catID=295


thanks so much for all of your input, you've probably saved me a lot of money and frustration.

I would definately recomend this. . .for pulling over or lowering parts of trees. Now about this dead tree that already leans the direction you want to fell it: The only way I would put a rope in to pull away from trailer is if there was a very strong wind blowing toward the trailer? I recommend you do NOT attempt it if there is ANY wind at all. Are you sure it leans totally in the direction you want it to go? No side lean? Is the tree or does the tree have more or heavier limbs on one side or the other? Depending on type of tree and degree of (deadness?) the hinge may bend very little before breaking, loosing all directional control. Along with loosing steerability, the dead tree gives a little "shake" when that hinge breaks and if anything is still overhead, that is the time it could snap loose and head down at a speed of I believe around 32 feet per second per second. Rate of acceleration of a falling object in a vacume at sea level or something like that. Having a towel rolled up across your shoulders will be handy for mopping up the blood running out your mouth after having a couple ribs stuck into your lungs. (That was in response to previouse post)

Look, I remember that excitement, and desire to help people drop trees for nothing, just because you can, or think you can. It never really goes away totally. Not all, but most of what you will read on these forums is pretty good scoop, but some is not. If you can't tell the difference, keep reading! KEEP READING

Stihl alive, I want you to STAY ALIVE!

 

[kevin callahan]

call a professional before you get hurt or hurt someone else