al gore wants me to buy a battery powered chainsaw!!!

Wesspur
Rugged made
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Depends how / what you are cutting. Usually, I cut, I stop, I move something, I cut, . . . The saw is not idling, using up power in-between.

For production cutting, battery saws might not be the best choice. Or you might need additional batteries.

Some brands also offer a 'fast charger', typically with a fan to control the heat, which can cut charging times up to half. I don't know why they don't make them all 'fast' - must be a marketing / price point thing.

Philbert
 
kayak1 said:
https://www.stihlusa.com/products/protective-and-work-wear/chain-saw-protective-apparel/aprnchap/
WARNING FOR ELECTRIC CHAINSAW USERS!
The fibers will not stop the sprocket on most electric chainsaws because of their constant high torque.
Click to expand...
Chaps will not not stop all gas powered saws either. They are designed to reduce the severity of a cut by jamming up the drive sprocket of a saw. But some high cc gas saws have enough torque and momentum to power through the protective fibers to the skin (and below!). This is why chaps are produced in different thicknesses, and different ratings (though it can be hard to find this information).

The UL standard and testing for chaps is based on gas chainsaws, so the labels and disclaimers have to state that legal stuff.

At some GTG's we have tested some battery (and other) saws on retired chaps. In this totally subjective testing, the chaps stalled out the battery saws, and some of the gas saws, but not at least one of the modded, high cc gas saws at high revs.

Note that the battery saws typically have overload circuits that 'cut out' (no pun intended) in ways that corded electric saws may not, when heavily loaded, such as following chaps contact. But we also found that the protective fibers jammed up the nose sprockets of the saws, causing them to stall - this would apply to any power source. With corded electric saws, this may be from tripping a circuit breaker.
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/nose-sprocket-rescue-illustrated.256640/

Some people will make a claim that 'electric saws are more dangerous than gas saws' due to this warning label, which is misleading, and a misinterpretation of the facts. The chaps still have some protective value, even if not complying with the UL standard, by definition.

Philbert
 
Philbert said:
Chaps will not not stop all gas powered saws either. They are designed to reduce the severity of a cut by jamming up the drive sprocket of a saw. But some high cc gas saws have enough torque and momentum to power through the protective fibers to the skin (and below!). This is why chaps are produced in different thicknesses, and different ratings (though it can be hard to find this information).

The UL standard and testing for chaps is based on gas chainsaws, so the labels and disclaimers have to state that legal stuff.

At some GTG's we have tested some battery (and other) saws on retired chaps. In this totally subjective testing, the chaps stalled out the battery saws, and some of the gas saws, but not at least one of the modded, high cc gas saws at high revs.

Note that the battery saws typically have overload circuits that 'cut out' (no pun intended) in ways that corded electric saws may not, when heavily loaded, such as following chaps contact. But we also found that the protective fibers jammed up the nose sprockets of the saws, causing them to stall - this would apply to any power source. With corded electric saws, this may be from tripping a circuit breaker.
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/nose-sprocket-rescue-illustrated.256640/

Some people will make a claim that 'electric saws are more dangerous than gas saws' due to this warning label, which is misleading, and a misinterpretation of the facts. The chaps still have some protective value, even if not complying with the UL standard, by definition.

Philbert
Click to expand...

Great info, it's still faster to charge one of my gas saws. I don't thinking that I will be milling with a battery saw any time soon.
 
Philbert said:
Some brands also offer a 'fast charger' . . .
Click to expand...
Most of my cordless O*P*E experience has been with the Oregon line of 40V tools. Here is some info comparing their batteries and chargers:
https://oregoncordless.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/***-Battery-Leaflet_online.pdf

EDIT replace '*' in link above with the letters 'O', 'P', and 'E'

Info on the STIHL batteries and chargers:
https://www.stihlusa.com/products/accessories/batteries-and-accessories/

Husqvarna (limited information):
http://www.husqvarna.com/us/accessories/battery/

Philbert
 
Philbert said:
Most of my cordless O*P*E experience has been with the Oregon line of 40V tools. Here is some info comparing their batteries and chargers:
https://oregoncordless.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/***-Battery-Leaflet_online.pdf

Info on the STIHL batteries and chargers:
https://www.stihlusa.com/products/accessories/batteries-and-accessories/

Husqvarna (limited information):
http://www.husqvarna.com/us/accessories/battery/

Philbert
Click to expand...

The oregon link isn't working in any case it looks like Stihl make one really large battery that might give a really long run time. I hope that they make a good way to monitor the bar oil:
https://northwesttruevaluehardware....s/batteries-and-accessories/batteries/ar3000/
$900 "This 36-volt, 1148 watt-hour powerhouse"
 
Philbert said:
Not that I know of!!!

But you can always check the oil level each time you swap batteries. Over time, I am sure that you can calibrate oil use with the specific brand / model of saw and battery size.

Philbert
Click to expand...

I would hope that a $900 backpack battery will outlast the OIL. I am sure that over time battery cars and saws will be the future, but for now they still have drawbacks.
 

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