Another 346XP Muffler thing!

Oregon_Rob · Dec 8, 2006

Just poked a ½” hole in the muffler of my 346 and pulled the spark screen. As far as the carb adjustments (once I defeat the limiter caps) should just be the low to stop the chain from moving at idle and backing the “H” until I get the “burlbing” at full throttle?
Also, best method of defeating the caps is a razor blade?

Just double checking looking for your suggestions and details.
:greenchainsaw:
Thanks,

Rob

drmiller100 · Dec 8, 2006

on my 7900, dremel worked the best.

for high speed jetting, I richen it too much, then put it in a big log, and lean it down until it quits burbling and starts singing.

Engineeringnerd · Dec 8, 2006

I think you have the L and H adjustments right, although a tach is useful to make sure you have it close, but not over the 14,700 line.

I was unable to cut my caps effectively with a razor, I had to turn the screws so the "ears" were away from other materials and then use a dremel to grind them off. I didn't need to remove the L screw, it had plenty of adjustment.
I decided to keep a screen in place to add an extra level of caution so I don't get sawdust and foreign matter in my exhaust.

Get some good hearing protection, it's loud!

Oregon_Rob · Dec 9, 2006

drmiller100 said:
on my 7900, dremel worked the best.

for high speed jetting, I richen it too much, then put it in a big log, and lean it down until it quits burbling and starts singing.

Sounds like a good excuse to buy another tool to me (dremel). :clap:

Thanks!

rob

Urbicide · Dec 9, 2006

Beware of any wires lurking nearby. Get them out of the way. Use a set of needle nose pliers and disconnect the wires from the stop switch if they are too close to the work zone. :chainsaw:

Oregon_Rob · Dec 9, 2006

Urbicide said:
Beware of any wires lurking nearby. Get them out of the way. Use a set of needle nose pliers and disconnect the wires from the stop switch if they are too close to the work zone.

Good advice
That sounds like the voice of experience?