Another Leaner

[buzz sawyer]

Pull It?

Just my two cents worth - as bad as it's leaning and as little as it seems there is holding it up --- if you can get close enough with a heavy truck, why not get a cable or bull rope in the top and give it a few tugs? Assuming no potential for property damage, it might just uproot or break off. If nothing else, you'll know how solid it is at the base.

 

[056kid]

Make a small notch and bore a little out of the middle. then plunge in right behind the notch back bar up twoards the top if the log. then match that cut from the top and, Pull,crack,pop, and boom shes on the deck.

If you under cut even with a notch in a tree that size, and procead to make a regular that ho will split all to hell and attempting to race the hinge will most likely throw your chain so dont do it that way!!

 

[smokechase II]

Boring

On a tree like that a bore cut is a great idea.

I totally agree that bore cutting is silly that way some folks always use it.

However, I wouldn't touch that tree without:

1) Chain binder,
2) Face, small done very gingerly with a floating bar. You feel the slightest pinch get out. (By the way, don't follow any other group of deranged sawyers who subscribe to the wonderment of a short bar. I don't understand that line of thought either. A longer bar gives you valuable distance. Seriously! Your 18" bar is not safe for this tree.)
3) Bore in at about the middle and once through, again cut toward the hinge gingerly floating the bar lightly, feeling for any pinching. Stop when you feel it just start to snug.
4) Then cut toward the top till about 5" away, but be ready for the big pop.
5) See if you can note any twisting in the main stem so far, if there has been some; place yourself on the side away from where the butt is moving towards.
6) Cut down from the top with force and direction.

(All your cuts at a comfortable, knees slightly bent ready to move posture.)


Unless, you haven't done but token boring before.
No time to learn on a tree with that much power.

 

[joesawer]

The pics don't show the canopy.
What ever method you use on that tree it is coming down in a hurry. A lot is going to happen in a short period of time.
The pics show that there will probably be some spring poles under it if they are not removed first.
If the canopy is full it can also move the butt around.
I have a pretty good idea of how I would do it and it would not be a bore cut.
That is no tree to be learning on. Red oak will blow up in your face (even while making a bore cut) when it is leaning like that.

 

[hammerlogging]

I think the thing to remember is that this tree is going to hit the ground really soon no matter how you cut it and it may well spring back toward your feet and knees pretty quick. This is serious: very little time for an escape route. I think I'd do it just like smokechase said but once I got bored through I'd pull out- much cutting in there and you'll get bound quickly- then you have to unbolt your saw head and pop the backstrap with your axe. But the thing is, I think you'd get it on the ground just as safely with a little undercut and then cutting down from the top- not fancy but I bet it'd work. I way agree about bar length, there was a day back when I thought it was great to be able to cut huge timber with a little bar, etc. Then I cut with some heli cutter dudes and afeter ridiculing their unnnecessary long bars, they convinced me to try a long bar- after a few hours I was convinced and I will NEVER go back. 28" minimum. Way better. Way. I bore every tree I cut (except of course clearing junk 7" or less) because that is THE way to cut hardwood trees- its just a lot different than west coast timber. But once you get the bore down, kickback ain't no concern- even boring in with either side of the tip, which is common and not really even a worry, once you get used to it. Safety. Skills. Production.

 

[smokechase II]

Barber Chair escape

Normally one is taught to escape the stump area at a 45 degree to the rear, not crossing behind the tree.

In a potential barber chair I would suggest a 90 degree, provided no spinning of the tree.

**************

However, on this tree it is already over 50%+ of the way.
The fulcrum could be 10 feet up and there would not be that much of the butt log to get a sawyer near the backside of the stump.

*************

If the tree chairs, things will happen fast but not instantaneously with regard to the butt.
There will be a second to react before the butt slams down.

Another consideration that works itself into other equations is hiding behind another tree as yours goes over.
That opportunity may exist here.

***************

As always, your saw isn't worth much. Compared to your body. In any true moment, just drop it/let it go.

 

[farmer]

I watched a pro cutting hardwood in ny and he bore cut every tree too.

 

[GASoline71]

Unless, you haven't done but token boring before.
No time to learn on a tree with that much power.

Best comment yet on this thread!

Gary

 

[sILlogger]

Ever try it without a bore? Are you just a bore addict?

yea ive cut trees without bore cutting....these are some of the ways that i've cut

• spur cut
• match cut(no notch-sink the saw in it and walk around it)
• conventional notch with back cut
• humbolt with back cut
• humbolt with bore cuts
• swing cut (cut a notch and start on one side and go around to other to pull the tree in the desired direction)
• conventional notch bore cut with solid holding wood across face
• conventional notch bore cut with "ears" at the corner (how i typically cut)

typically if a hardwood has much lean to it at all you just can't cut if fast enought to keep from splitting it....so i bore cut them...less fibre pull...doesn't pull the bark...doesn't split the side...and i even use a bore cut for pushing them over with a skidder or pulling them over with the winchcable