Flaps
ArboristSite Member
pics......
Another log splitter
- Thread starter Flaps
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indiansprings
Firewood Purveyor
The only major issue I see is the height of the cylinder off of the beam. I'd get it down to two and a half to three inches off the beam. Your on the right track using larger lines, don't forget to use as large as fitting as you can as well, so you don't restrict flow there. While your buiding, look at making your wedge interchangeable from a normal wedge to a four way.
Flaps
ArboristSite Member
cylinder location.....
Thanks Indian....allready going to move the cylinder down---way down !!!! We allready welded in the wedge to the beam, can I add a 4 way wedge to existing wedge later...????
Thanks Indian....allready going to move the cylinder down---way down !!!! We allready welded in the wedge to the beam, can I add a 4 way wedge to existing wedge later...????
Flaps
ArboristSite Member
Flaps
ArboristSite Member
Flaps
ArboristSite Member
pics
Thats it on the pics , sorry about the repeats or pics from the same angle. More pics to come when things get going....thanks again for all your help...Flaps.
Thats it on the pics , sorry about the repeats or pics from the same angle. More pics to come when things get going....thanks again for all your help...Flaps.
log splitter
Hello Flaps,
About your log splitter;
I would strongly recommend that you reverse the cylinder and connect the bafrrel end of the cylinderf to your pusher plate as the rod will become a victim of arching and damaging the stuffing box, stuffing box packing, rod wiper seal and if the rod is bent there is no saving it no matter how many times you try to save it by using a press and V blocks.
The replacement rod will cost you $8-900.00USD if it is bent and that is why I havce explained how valuable the stop tube is for the cylinder you are using and also why the cylinder shoud be reversed as the barrel eye weldments will be better for the use on the pusher plate as they have more surface area to distribute the stress of the pusher plate against them.
As I have discussed cylinders quite often on this forum and others this is why I always suggest double acting telescoping cylinders for the typical or non typical log splitter as they deliver more energyand provide more bearing surface against loads for the task at hand than a standard double acting cylinder
with less oil as well.
I will be posting a drawing of a stop tube today for everyone to see which give you more bearing surface which creates a langer piston in the barrel and reduces stresses to almost zero on the rod, stuffing box, wiper, stuffing box, packing, cylinder barrel threads etc.
If the barrel of the cylinder is stressed enough it will become egg shaped and all the individual parts in the cylinder will be damaged beyond use entirely.
leon
Hello Flaps,
About your log splitter;
I would strongly recommend that you reverse the cylinder and connect the bafrrel end of the cylinderf to your pusher plate as the rod will become a victim of arching and damaging the stuffing box, stuffing box packing, rod wiper seal and if the rod is bent there is no saving it no matter how many times you try to save it by using a press and V blocks.
The replacement rod will cost you $8-900.00USD if it is bent and that is why I havce explained how valuable the stop tube is for the cylinder you are using and also why the cylinder shoud be reversed as the barrel eye weldments will be better for the use on the pusher plate as they have more surface area to distribute the stress of the pusher plate against them.
As I have discussed cylinders quite often on this forum and others this is why I always suggest double acting telescoping cylinders for the typical or non typical log splitter as they deliver more energyand provide more bearing surface against loads for the task at hand than a standard double acting cylinder
with less oil as well.
I will be posting a drawing of a stop tube today for everyone to see which give you more bearing surface which creates a langer piston in the barrel and reduces stresses to almost zero on the rod, stuffing box, wiper, stuffing box, packing, cylinder barrel threads etc.
If the barrel of the cylinder is stressed enough it will become egg shaped and all the individual parts in the cylinder will be damaged beyond use entirely.
leon
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Flaps
ArboristSite Member
Editing post
Getting ready to post a few new pics of splitter and wanted to "clean-up" this post. Leave just the important photo's and replys and get rid of the "junk" but the "edit---the little scissors" icon is not there. Any ideas ??? Thanks...Flaps.
Getting ready to post a few new pics of splitter and wanted to "clean-up" this post. Leave just the important photo's and replys and get rid of the "junk" but the "edit---the little scissors" icon is not there. Any ideas ??? Thanks...Flaps.
Steve NW WI
Unwanted Riff Raff.
Flaps, the Edit button is only available for a little while - maybe 2-3 days, but not sure.
Just keep adding to the end of it and we'll keep looking!
Just keep adding to the end of it and we'll keep looking!
Considering that an entire replacement cylinder costs $2-300, I sincerely doubt the rod will cost him $8-900. :monkey:
Ian
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Flaps
ArboristSite Member
Finished splitter
Well after many weekends it's finished. I ended up putting the old parts back on except for the new beam, push plate, and wedge. I lowered the cylinder as close to the beam as it would go. Got rid of the white hard plastic friction plates. The entire beam slides back on rollers 4 feet to get away from the wheels so it's easier to work.
I decided to go BIG. Going to sell this splitter and upgrade to a box beam, (no more I beam for me, too many headaches). 22.5 HP Honda engine, 6 inch diameter cylinder, 24 inch stroke, 28GPM 2 stage pump, 3/4 inch lines. I bought a used Millermatic 251 welder and a set of torches, going to attempt building this one on my own as opposed to paying my buddy for doing most of the welding. The old splitter came out nice, but the Eucalyptus wood we split is twisted and tough and I need more power.
I have some of the parts for the new BIG splitter. I'm staying with a horizontal splitter and was wondering which way to have the fixed wedge face--forward or backward? Axle position and getting the thing to balance will be tricky too. Looks like I have my work cut out for me.
I'll post pics as the progress moves on. Check out some pics of the old splitter that's up for sale.
Well after many weekends it's finished. I ended up putting the old parts back on except for the new beam, push plate, and wedge. I lowered the cylinder as close to the beam as it would go. Got rid of the white hard plastic friction plates. The entire beam slides back on rollers 4 feet to get away from the wheels so it's easier to work.
I decided to go BIG. Going to sell this splitter and upgrade to a box beam, (no more I beam for me, too many headaches). 22.5 HP Honda engine, 6 inch diameter cylinder, 24 inch stroke, 28GPM 2 stage pump, 3/4 inch lines. I bought a used Millermatic 251 welder and a set of torches, going to attempt building this one on my own as opposed to paying my buddy for doing most of the welding. The old splitter came out nice, but the Eucalyptus wood we split is twisted and tough and I need more power.
I have some of the parts for the new BIG splitter. I'm staying with a horizontal splitter and was wondering which way to have the fixed wedge face--forward or backward? Axle position and getting the thing to balance will be tricky too. Looks like I have my work cut out for me.
I'll post pics as the progress moves on. Check out some pics of the old splitter that's up for sale.
Flaps
ArboristSite Member
Few more pics of old splitter
Rookie1
Addicted to ArboristSite
I may have missed the explanation earlier but is this a twoman operation with the valve mounted on the post and the splitter slid out? Other than that I think its cool. You did a nice job on fabbing. I see you kept the spark arrestor too. Is that a Cali thing?
Flaps
ArboristSite Member
more pics
that's it on pics till the next splitter......
that's it on pics till the next splitter......
Flaps
ArboristSite Member
2 man operation
Yes Rookie1, it takes 2 people to operate(not my design). One man can operate it, but you have to do a lot of running back and forth from lever to log. Works pretty good when the two people are in sync. The beam slides back about 4 feet away from the wheels--plenty of room to operate without tripping over the wheels. Hey that's an idea---fold away wheels !!!! This splitter is old school stuff, very slow and LOUD !!! We split Eucalyptus out here in CA. and it is like twisted iron !!!! Next splitter I build should do the job. Going way bigger, stronger, quieter, faster...etc. Yep, that's a spark arrester on the muffler---required on everything out here---sucks. Can't wait to start fabbing the new splitter, need to sell this one first.
Yes Rookie1, it takes 2 people to operate(not my design). One man can operate it, but you have to do a lot of running back and forth from lever to log. Works pretty good when the two people are in sync. The beam slides back about 4 feet away from the wheels--plenty of room to operate without tripping over the wheels. Hey that's an idea---fold away wheels !!!! This splitter is old school stuff, very slow and LOUD !!! We split Eucalyptus out here in CA. and it is like twisted iron !!!! Next splitter I build should do the job. Going way bigger, stronger, quieter, faster...etc. Yep, that's a spark arrester on the muffler---required on everything out here---sucks. Can't wait to start fabbing the new splitter, need to sell this one first.
tdb
ArboristSite Operative
ok
nice work flaps.
TEDMI
nice work flaps.
TEDMI
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Flaps, you need to move the valve to the cyclinder. My 3 pht one just has a band of steel around the cyclinder and the valve is bolted to it. Going to be a tough sell as a 2 man operation when it really doesn't need to be.
Might want to consider cutting off the top of the cyclinder mounting bracket with the 2 extra holes in it, makes it look like a mistake. I know cause mine looks the same, makes it look like a work in progress. Other than that it looks good, maybe split a few with it so it at least looks like it works. :greenchainsaw:
Figure you are going to make money on it or break even? I was planning on building a splitter but ended up buying a 28 ton speeco after figuring out some costs for parts. I already have 2 other splitters that are tractor powered but wanted one with it's own power.
Might want to consider cutting off the top of the cyclinder mounting bracket with the 2 extra holes in it, makes it look like a mistake. I know cause mine looks the same, makes it look like a work in progress. Other than that it looks good, maybe split a few with it so it at least looks like it works. :greenchainsaw:
Figure you are going to make money on it or break even? I was planning on building a splitter but ended up buying a 28 ton speeco after figuring out some costs for parts. I already have 2 other splitters that are tractor powered but wanted one with it's own power.
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