Another wood drying question

[samdweezel05]

Everything I mill is green and although I have a bunch of stuff done and am testing a couple different ways to dry it, I would still like to know how to dry it with the least amount of splitting. Mostly oak, maple and elm. I don't have a kiln so air drying is the only way. Its stickered but some is covered tight some is covered loose and some isn't covered at all.

 

[Dave Boyt]

Sam, the best defense against end checking is to put and end sealer, such as anchorseal, on the ends of the logs right after they have been cut down. Putting stickers at the very ends of the boards is said to help. Air drying will get the boards a long ways toward where they need to be, and may be all you need, depending on the use. You need kiln dry for flooring and furniture where stability is important, but not for siding, porch decking, etc. Some furniture design allows for wood movement, especially the traditional rustic designs. Keep the wood out of the sun, and in a place where you get good air movement. Cover with roofing tin, if possible. Don't use a tarp, as it will trap moisture. I use 1" stickers between layers of wood. There are two basic ways to air dry wood, depending on what you want out of it. Most people use square stacks, since it uses space more efficiently, but if you want to keep the wood from a log together, use the European system which puts the log back together with stickers between them. It accommodates boards of different thickness, and is preferred by craftsmen who want to use lumber from the same log throughout their piece.

Square stacking
http://i1238.photobucket.com/albums/ff490/dboyt54/Sawmill/Stacking Boards/Stack_5m.jpg

European stacking
http://i1238.photobucket.com/albums/ff490/dboyt54/Sawmill/Stacking Boards/Cedarstack_01.jpg

Good luck. I'm sure there will be more opinions posted!

 

[brookpederson]

Sealing the the log ends before sawing + stacking under a roof + lots of air flow + good 1'' stickers every 2ft + low humidity + one year for each inch of thickness = Good flat unchecked 6-7% seasoned boards and a happy sawyer

 

[samdweezel05]

You just answered the biggest part of my question. To cover it tight and let the moisture out more slowly or let the air pass through. Thanks for that. I also didn't realize that you paint the end of milled boards. I thought that was just for unmilled logs. Thanks.

 

[Dave Boyt]

I also didn't realize that you paint the end of milled boards. I thought that was just for unmilled logs. Thanks.

I think painting the ends of unmilled logs is what both brookpederson and I both recommended. By the time you mill the boards, the cracks are already started, and you may as well not bother end coating.

 

[samdweezel05]

I think painting the ends of unmilled logs is what both brookpederson and I both recommended. By the time you mill the boards, the cracks are already started, and you may as well not bother end coating.

I see what you are saying now. Thank you.

 

[hamish]

Do your best to limit the amount of sunlight that gets to the wood. A larger roof structure/poleshed/barn what have you or geotextile (aka landscape fabric) to limit the direct sunlight on the stack.

 

[Cody Colston]

Dave Boyt gave you good, accurate information in his first post. If you want to know even more, download the publication "Drying Hardwood Lumber." It's free, it's informative, it's accurate and it's written by experts in the industry.

http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/fplgtr/fplgtr118.pdf

 

[Dave Boyt]

Thanks, Cody, I didn't realize that the publication was available as a pdf! Great reference. There's also good info on Woodweb.com, where Gene Wengert (one of the authors of "Drying Hardwood Lumber") frequently answers questions about wood & drying.

 

[mikeb1079]

Do your best to limit the amount of sunlight that gets to the wood.

especially for the oak. i've had some troubles with oak drying out too fast leading to splitting on the face of the board. elm and maple (at least for me) have been more forgiving. good luck!

 

[Cody Colston]

Thanks, Cody, I didn't realize that the publication was available as a pdf! Great reference. There's also good info on Woodweb.com, where Gene Wengert (one of the authors of "Drying Hardwood Lumber") frequently answers questions about wood & drying.

You're welcome and yes, I reference Dr. Wengert's advice at Woodnet pretty frequently. Their knowledge base there is a great resource, too.

 

[Daninvan]

. . . By the time you mill the boards, the cracks are already started, and you may as well not bother end coating.

This is true, but you can overcome it easily by cutting a couple inches off each end. This will get rid of any small cracks that have started to form and expose a fresh unchecked surface that you can apply a coat of anchorseal etc to. Of course it will not work for larger deeper cracks.