Any of you into CHAINSAW MILLING ??

[jsikkema1]

I thought that there was a forum for milling on here?? anyway...

I just got the new GB mills in and I am rather impressed. I sell the Granberg MKIII mills and these are quite a bit more substantial and they appear to be very rigid. They have 4 vertical uprights intead of two- but what is really unique with these mills is that they clamp to the power head instead of just the bar and that makes a world of difference in terms of rigidity. The Grandbergs if you use them long enough will fail the bar due to fatigue the way that they clamp to the bar.

Anyway here are some pics... I just threw it on a Solo 694 I had with a 32" bar- this is a 36" mill. The bar and chain are not what I will mill with- just a fit up for now...

If any one is interested in learning more about these mills email or call me.

<img src=http://home.insightbb.com/~ss/mill.JPG>

<img src=http://home.insightbb.com/~ss/mill2.JPG>

<img src=http://home.insightbb.com/~ss/mill3.JPG>

if you still want a Grangerg mill look here:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=20538&item=2355978836

 

[Marshman5300]

I was thinking of trying it out when i get my 041 running. At my work we have a brand new milling attachment. Dont know what kind ill have to check. But maybe i can use it just to try it out to see how it goes.


Marsh

 

[jsikkema1]

this is a Granberg mill in action

this is a Granberg mill in action:

<img src=http://home.insightbb.com/~ss/Runningmill.jpg>

 

[timberwolf]

I have been playing around with the same set up (older version with only 2 uprights) for a year or so using an 066 for a power head.

It works well for soft wood, still hard work and not that fast, but I think you will find it very slow if you try to do much hardwood of any size.

I noticed in the pictures, your chain does not look as if it is filed for milling. Significant gains can be had by modifying the way that the chain is filed. The kerf of the cut is reduced as the teath are not pulled out sidways into the cut.

start with somewhere between 0-10 degrees top angle, and even remove every second top plate. But the best chain I have tried was one Crofter made for me, (Maybe I should not be devulging his secrets) 0 degrees on the top plate with the first pair of teeth having the top plates nearly fully removed, the second pair partially removed then a pair with full top plates and then the sequence is repeated. This seems to produced a smooth cut and is fast cutting.

Brian

 

[Onthehillintn]

Mine is not that pretty but it works very well. Jeff you might recognize the bar.

Tim

 

[IndyIan]

Looks good!

How many nuts need to be turned to adjust the depth of cut? I have an alaskan and the 2 nuts per u-bolt are annoying.

Also, how do you adjust your chain tension with the mill bolted on the bar mounts?

Ian

 

[timberwolf]

Ian, the same thing buggs me with the Mill, the fix I found was to jam two nuts together on one side of the Ubolt with a bit of slack so the unit can be moved up and down. Then on the other end of the Ubolt replace the hex nut with a 2 inch long coupleing nut and if you don't want to scrench it any longer tack on a T handle of some sort on to the end of the coupleing nut.

This saves a lot of time when it comes to resetting the depth.

Brian

 

[SilverBlue]

Looks great Jeff, let me know how much. Also should get a 36" bar as well.

Did my last order ship yet?

 

[IndyIan]

Brian,
Thanks for the tips, I'll try to get that setup for the weekend.

I've been milling beams so for every cut I have to set the depth so its a bit slow going. Nice beams though

Ian

 

[jsikkema1]

Originally posted by Onthehillintn
Mine is not that pretty but it works very well. Jeff you might recognize the bar.

Tim

Yeah I seen some of those bars like that before...
when I had to move them I took a pic

 

[Toolboy]

Hey Jeff,

I'm also curious about how many bolts to adjust the height. Looks like this adjustment doesn't require a wrench? Is there any kind of "positive stop" at standard depths (like 4/4)?

What's the maximum depth of cut?

How would you compare the weight of this rig to a 36" Alaskan?

And about how much does a 36" rig go for? (Please email me if you can't post that here)

Thanks,
Christopher

 

[jsikkema1]

Adjustment...

the height (or thickness) adjustment on these is a accomplished by loosening a clamp knob- one on both sides. Note in pic that you can see that the uprights are stamped with the thickenss measurement. One side is in cm and the other in inches.

Also note the the guard on the tip of the bar is closed off. Also- can't see in this picture, but there is a helper handle on the upright- a nice touch.

The bar and chain are not what I will mill with- just a fit up for now...

 

[johncinco]

Hey Jeff I know your busy, but I will take that 84 DL 3/8 .050 chain with the "carlton" style to it. I will call you as soon as I get a chance. Can't wait to put this new mill to the test! I am going to see how this set up works before I go setting up the 36" bar.

 

[jsikkema1]

ripping chain

this is the type of chain I use and seems to work well

there are 'scoring' cutters and 'chippers' that 1- score the wood and the 2nd cutter chips it out- said to have less tendancy to follow the grain while ripping.

This chain is actually reground chain and the scoring cutters have half the top plate removed and ground at 20 deg- the clearing cutters are ground at 0 deg (I sharpen back to 10deg)

see picture

 

[Onthehillintn]

Jeff
Do you sell that chain or just make it for yourself?
If not do you sell any kind of ripping chain?

Thanks

Tim