Anyone else use this?

beastmaster · Jun 6, 2011

I use this method on removals a lot. Though I invented it, I'm sure others must use it, probably even has a name. So Im surprised each time people tell me they've never seen it used before, but people like it and are using it.
Its like a combination zip line, and drop and catch. I use several variations but basically one end of the rope is tied to the tree/branch, and the other is either run over the top of another near by branch, or a pulley hanging from a branch , then down to a tree brake or what ever. The piece to be lowered is wrapped with a sling, and the sling is hooked to the rope with a biner. When its cut the piece slides down to the middle of the rope, between the two tie in points and is lowered to the ground. I really like this on dead or dangerous trees, because the shock is adsorb by both tie in point and the rope. It doesn't shock the tree.(or the climber)
It works good on piecing out big branches . You just keep advancing the knot(bowline works good).
. if you have a bunch of slings you can move pretty fast.
So any one else ever use this technic? Beastmaster

flushcut · Jun 6, 2011

Nope, but sounds interesting. I may have to play with that idea.

sgreanbeans · Jun 11, 2011

Drift line?

Treepedo · Jun 11, 2011

I call it a cradle rig. Very good technique.
Used something similar twice this week.
But booth times statically. The rope was set up tree to tree horizontal to a fence and a few feet above the fence.
Cut the limbs and the then the tree and it all lands on the rope and avoid the whole up high rigging scenario.
Works well when the trees are very dangerous climbs.

imagineero · Jun 11, 2011

I've used this technique many times, but I don't have name for it. You just have to be careful that the angle on the rope is not too tight or you risk overloading the TIPs.

Another technique I use sometimes is something like a floating TIP. 95% of my work is residential, and mostly removals. You often have to remove half or more of a tree from over a target with little or no swing room and bring it back over a fence or similar.

I start by setting up a pulley over the landing zone, in the tree or even better, in another tree. Run my lowering rope through the pulley, then head out in to no mans land where I cant drop a branch over that glass house/precious plant/whatever. Because the trees aren't that tall, if I was to try to just swing one back in from the (not very) high point, it would probably hit ground. Especially if the spread is big and I'm way out there. One way of handling it would be to rig another sling out in no mans land then use a pull rope to get it back over.

What I do, is rig a sling onto a good point in no mans land, and fit a gri gri or a prussik to it, attached to a short rope, and attach the short rope to the lowering rope. Sounds complicated, I think I'll have to draw a diagram. It's very simple.

Now attach the lowering rope to the branch. shorten the short rope down to nothing. Lowering rope attached to GRCS/porta wrap/groundie(s) or whatever. Take the cut and the branch swings, but hangs immediately below the sling in no mans land, so little drop. I could lower it here in no mans land, but something underneath prevents it. So I let out some slack on the short rope... and as I let out slack, groundies take in... and the limb moves from no mans land to the safe lowering zone just like a mini yarding system. Once it's far enough over for a safe lower, I let go of the gri gri and they lower, untie etc while I sling up the next victim. Now I can pull that lowering rope all the way back to where I am with my lowering rope. Simple!

With the 'cradle' type system, the load is always going to be lowered in between the 2 TIPs. It distributes load, but gives you no control over the lowering zone. With the mini yarder system, you get the same load distribution but you have some excellent control over the lowering zone.

Shaun