Anyone making their own loops of chain?

[TreeAce]

Hurt like hell, didn't it! When they go, they literally explode.

I had an employee running a grinder that shattered the wheel. In addition to getting whacked in the leg with 1/2 the wheel, the other half stayed mounted, and the grinder was trying it's best to leap off the bench (still bolted down) while he was trying to get the switch turned off...at great peril from the remaining wheel that could fly off at any moment.

It was exciting, and I wasn't even running it.

As you might guess, I only run the steel CBN wheels nowadays. Even in my current poverty, they are worth the investment.

I will keep that in mind . That wheel is pricey but I don't doubt it is worth it . I would assume it's just as well to learn how to use my grinder first then up grade wheels . Although it seems to be much safer . I would never run a grinder with out saftey glasses and that being before I heard about wheels busting apart ! LOL

 

[tree md]

I got very lucky and didn't get hurt at all. I was wearing goggles which protected my eyes and a good portion of my face. The Northern Tool grinder must have an interior fuse or something because it ran wide open for a few seconds and shook violently then it just shut off. Scared the living daylights out of me.

I learned a valuable lesson: I was grinding without securing my chain with the rail clamp deal for speed sake and it pulled a tooth up into the wheel shattering it in my face. I make sure I have everything locked down tight now before I make contact with a tooth.

 

[arbor pro]

I'm using a Stihl pro grinder with stone wheel. Anyone know what CBN wheel is recommended for 3/8 stihl chain on a stihl grinder?

 

[pdqdl]

They come in the same arbor size, diameter, and thickness as your original stone wheel.

Just compare specs and order up!

 

[epicklein22]

Wow, you guys use a grinder? I thought everyone did it by hand? I have a foley belsaw grinder and never use it. I have a local dealer that does a nice job on chains but they are still "slow" in the cut. Nothing beats a hand filed chain. "Don't put it in the dirt" is emphasized at my work and enforced! I could see a grinder being useful for a really rocked out chain but that is about it....

I know some of you will say that the grinder saves time, money and that you have ruthless groundies who attract dirt but I can't stand using chains off a grinder. I guess it is the saw junkie in me but I have to have a sharp chain. A Stihl with a good grinder chain or a poulan with a good hand filed chain, I'm grabbing the poulan.

As for the spinner/breaker, you will save money over the long run but with the pricing around me, it isn't a no-brainer decision. I buy 100' oregon reels for ~$265-$275. My dealer offers pre-made loops in 30 packs too for a discount ($12 for a 20" I believe). In other areas, buying a reel off of baileys plus the spinner/breaker will save some dough.

If you want a tough chain that will take some abuse, go with Stihl semi-chisel, RMC....and never look back. That is what I like to use at the log yard doing firewood.

 

[tree md]

A grinder does not replace hand filing, it complements it.

If you are anything like me you are going to touch up your ground saws at least once throughout the day. A grinder is not going to take the place of hand filing in the field. However, I don't care who you are, you are going to end up with uneven teeth after awhile if you are just hand filing in the field. All chains are going to need to be ground periodically to bring them back into factory spec. And as you have mentioned, it sure makes fixing a rocked chain a lot less painful. Besides, it's nice to have one that cuts like new after a fresh grind.

 

[epicklein22]

A grinder does not replace hand filing, it complements it.

If you are anything like me you are going to touch up your ground saws at least once throughout the day. A grinder is not going to take the place of hand filing in the field. However, I don't care who you are, you are going to end up with uneven teeth after awhile if you are just hand filing in the field. All chains are going to need to be ground periodically to bring them back into factory spec. And as you have mentioned, it sure makes fixing a rocked chain a lot less painful. Besides, it's nice to have one that cuts like new after a fresh grind.

I hear ya on that. We file every chain back to the witness marks and they cut straight. Some will get a little off kilter if we change up angles though. If a chain is rocked, it just takes a few sharpenings to get back to being really sharp.

We try to avoid filing in the field if possible (because that is when you are in a rush as you want to get the job done), we either touch them up at the shop before heading out or upon returning to get a little extra shop time in.

Each to their own, when I started at this place 3 years ago as a greenie, I was shocked to not see a grinder in the shop but soon realized it isn't a necessity but more of a tool for certain, limited situations.

 

[squad143]

I've been buying my chain in 100' spools and making my own loops for a couple of years now. I find it a lot more inexpensive this way.

I only use Stihl chain. It has alot more chrome content and is a harder chain. Stays sharper longer, however it is also harder to sharpen. I only use full chisel chain as I am only cutting "clean" wood. I find the full chisel cuts faster than the semi-chisel. The semi-chisel will stay sharper longer when cutting logs that have been dragged through the bush though.

I have 2 bench grinders (long story) and sharpen the dull chains when things are slow or when I get time (or when I run out of chain ). I don't bother using a file anymore. I can change to a new (resharpened) chain alot faster than I can file. I keep about 20 resharpened chains in the truck and about 10 brand new loops ready to go.

Most of my saws run 3/8ths .050 chain on a 20" bar, except for the MS200s and the 088. I run a 24" bar on the 046. I've converted my 260 to run 3/8ths chain. This way I only carry mainly 20" 3/8ths with a few of the other sizes for the other saws.

It's funny. When I operate the saws, the chains last the whole day. Some guys on the crew can make them last long while others seem to go through them like candy. The chain butchers usually end up hauling wood instead of cutting it.

 

[Treetom]

Okay pdql, you talked me into it.

I've been spinning my own chains for 15 years, as well as sharpening with a grinding wheel. Regular grinding wheels are fine for touching up a dull chain. As far as sharpening the chains that are really messed up, I didn't do it. I'd just make up a new chain and hang the dull ones on a hook, for years, until I got about a hundred very dull chains saved up. Then I bought a Dinasaw ABN cyclone wheel. A bit pricey, but it quickly puts a new edge on very dull cutters with no overheating. Just like with the ms200t, I had to read posts for about 2 years before I bought one. Best move I ever made. Same with the ABN Cyclone, the 2-hunge of grinding wheels.

 

[pdqdl]

You just got it into use?

I'll bet that was a revelation in sharpening awareness! You went and picked up a couple of the dullest chains you could find, didn't you?


Those wheels will last longer if you make sure that you do not "bounce" or "bump" that wheel into the steel tooth. Also, make sure that you clamp the chain securely every time you grind. It is bouncing and chattering that will hurt that high-priced wheel the most, as the little hardened bits of mineral can be knocked out of the plating surface that holds them. Then your wheel does not cut as quickly or cool, either!

 

[gwiley]

I make my own, but it is not so much about saving on each loop as it is about not having to keep an inventory of loops for each bar. I buy 1 reel for each chain pitch and that takes care of all the various bar lengths. It is really nice to not be bothered when you find that your last good loop is the one that just got rocked out!

It is also nice to be able to make loops for friends saws - most folks just don't keep spare saw chain for some reason.

 

[Treetom]

You just got it into use?

I'll bet that was a revelation in sharpening awareness! You went and picked up a couple of the dullest chains you could find, didn't you?


Those wheels will last longer if you make sure that you do not "bounce" or "bump" that wheel into the steel tooth. Also, make sure that you clamp the chain securely every time you grind. It is bouncing and chattering that will hurt that high-priced wheel the most, as the little hardened bits of mineral can be knocked out of the plating surface that holds them. Then your wheel does not cut as quickly or cool, either!

Never did like that "bounce" idea, pdql. And after being conditioned to going slow and easy with the standard wheels for years, I probably go a little slower than I have to with the Cyclone. Once I get all the very dull ones sharpened, I may never have to buy another 3/8 chain. Thanks for promoting the ABN, a definite time-saving device.

 

[tree md]

Your not really bouncing the wheel if you set it up like I described. If you set your depth gauge where it is barely touching the tooth (or even a micrometer away) and you have to pull it to the chain and into the gullet it's is like a tapping motion but it barley touches the chain. No bluing on the chain and the wheels hold up fine. Puts a fine grind on the chain as well.

 

[pdqdl]

Many years ago, when I first got set up as a small engine repair facility (BIG mistake!), I got a 10 minute tutorial on chain sharpening from the distributor of the equipment.

Bouncing the stone wheel on the cutter is taught as a technique to prevent overheating. It works pretty well for that purpose, but it is harder on the wheel, and may cause chipping on the stone wheel. With a cheap stone wheel, increased wear to the wheel really isn't a concern.

Some guys that have been bouncing the wheel on the tooth for years may have a hard time changing that habit when they go to the ABN/CBN wheels. Deliberately bouncing the stone wheels is good technique; any bouncing with a CBN wheel is bad.

 

[prentice110]

Making my own since 02. Cant really say what I save. Bought so many rolls when Bailys had a good sale in 04, that I havent run out yet. Stay away from that vise grip looking breaker mender for the field. There junk. Just make your extras during beer 30 after the guys go home. Has anyone ever heard of a Peerless brand sawchain grinder? Things gotta be over 30 years old.

 

[bayard]

semi skip

just got a roll of semi skip full chisel and the spinner and press. should be good to go.k