legendrider
ArboristSite Operative
Just got back from Arbormasters felling/chainsaw saftey course. Once again great information. This my second class with them. So far so good!
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MasterBlaster
TreeHouse Elder
Sweet!
Did it hit ya in the pocketbook very bad?
Did it hit ya in the pocketbook very bad?
legendrider
ArboristSite Operative
not at all?
Had my company not paid the tuition it would have been 370.00
I did have to pay for my own travel related expenses. I work for a large commercial landscape company. they will pretty much pay for anything related to the green industry. so it works out.
Had my company not paid the tuition it would have been 370.00
I did have to pay for my own travel related expenses. I work for a large commercial landscape company. they will pretty much pay for anything related to the green industry. so it works out.
MasterBlaster
TreeHouse Elder
That sounds like a fair price, not a bad deal.
legendrider
ArboristSite Operative
i agree
for two full days of instruction not too bad!
for two full days of instruction not too bad!
Frans
ArboristSite Operative
ArborMasterFelling Technique?
What is the official A.M. face cut technique?
I heard that they say to ALWAYS make a big tall face cut, never more than 1/3 of the way through the trunk
Is this true?
Frans
What is the official A.M. face cut technique?
I heard that they say to ALWAYS make a big tall face cut, never more than 1/3 of the way through the trunk
Is this true?
Frans
legendrider
ArboristSite Operative
yes
about 70 degrees, somtimes more, however they do teach a few techniques depending on the situation. but the 1/3 rule would appear to be the standard
about 70 degrees, somtimes more, however they do teach a few techniques depending on the situation. but the 1/3 rule would appear to be the standard
BewtifulTreeMan
ArboristSite Operative
when i took it they said to make the face open enough so that it doesn't close before the tree hits the ground, to keep the hinge intact
did rip teach the class? he's my hero!
did they show you the stumping technique where you do a bore cut and then rotate counterclockwise, so that the saw dust holds the log up and keeps it from pinching your saw, thats the coolest!
did rip teach the class? he's my hero!
did they show you the stumping technique where you do a bore cut and then rotate counterclockwise, so that the saw dust holds the log up and keeps it from pinching your saw, thats the coolest!
ArtifexArboreus
ArboristSite Member
Wow, I always figured that the purple Tel-e-tubby was your hero and that you thought peanut-butter and jelly was the coolest.
legendrider
ArboristSite Operative
yes to both treeman
he showed all the techniques you mentioned and yes Rip taught both days
he showed all the techniques you mentioned and yes Rip taught both days
BewtifulTreeMan
ArboristSite Operative
your absolutely right, i can have more then one hero, cant i?
Curtis James
ArboristSite Operative
I took one of their classes a few years ago and was blown away at all I learned. It was before I got certified. They actually took some of the equipment, my old boss had brought along with us, up to the front and said this is what not to use. It was an old pole strap that wasn't double locking and a few other nonlocking snaps and such. I am currently up on all modern rules and regs. I have started my own business and I am very excited to some day send my employees to the classes. I would like to see some of those videos on rigging that I am always seeing an add for. Those look pretty informative.
BRCCArborist
ArboristSite Operative
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Rip Thompson is a Bada$$! I saw him at the Waynesboro workshop and he is definately a master rigger. If anyone hasnt checked and arbormaster seminar out I highly recomend it
TreeJunkie
ArboristSite Guru
I think it's Rip Thompkins****
Please describe the bore/pivoting stump cut, as i'm no master feller. I've read a couple books on felling. This might be something i either missed or which wasn't containted in the material which i read.
He didn't invent the procedure did he? Is there a proper name for it?
Please describe the bore/pivoting stump cut, as i'm no master feller. I've read a couple books on felling. This might be something i either missed or which wasn't containted in the material which i read.
He didn't invent the procedure did he? Is there a proper name for it?
At the risk of jumping the gun, it sounded to me like he was describing making the cut to remove the stump by boring in, then cutting with the top of the bar in an attempt to dump the chips <i>into</i> the cut as you go.
It might help some to keep the kerf open (if the stump is wider than the bar), but would be long-term hard on the cutting equipment. Plastic wedges are cheap and mind-numbingly easy.
Glen
It might help some to keep the kerf open (if the stump is wider than the bar), but would be long-term hard on the cutting equipment. Plastic wedges are cheap and mind-numbingly easy.
Glen
BewtifulTreeMan
ArboristSite Operative
yep thats the one
i like it, but i never considered that it might be hard on equipment
Tom Dunlap
Addicted to ArboristSite
Ralph "Rip" Tompkins
Burnham
ArboristSite Operative
Why do you say that cutting with the tip or top of the bar is hard on the saw, Glen? Or is there something else in the technique that you're thinking of?
ArtifexArboreus
ArboristSite Member
any links that describes that cut. i saw it once. looks real cool. any help would be great. thanks
What I mean:
Discounting the slight non-cutting-side-of-the-bar drag on the chain while in the cut, in the "normal" direction (with the bottom of the bar) there is no appreciable load on the tip of the bar, thus no real pull of the bar against the adjuster and lugs. When cutting with the top of the bar, the full horsepower required to cut is transfered around the tip, thus loading the tip, pulling the bar backwards into the saw, and concentrating all the chain slack even more-so into the area between the drive sprocket and bar-groove infeed, which gets hammered enough as it is in "normal" use but even more this way.
Glen
Discounting the slight non-cutting-side-of-the-bar drag on the chain while in the cut, in the "normal" direction (with the bottom of the bar) there is no appreciable load on the tip of the bar, thus no real pull of the bar against the adjuster and lugs. When cutting with the top of the bar, the full horsepower required to cut is transfered around the tip, thus loading the tip, pulling the bar backwards into the saw, and concentrating all the chain slack even more-so into the area between the drive sprocket and bar-groove infeed, which gets hammered enough as it is in "normal" use but even more this way.
Glen
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