Are electric chainsaws safer?

[quantico]

So a more intimidating more difficult to operate saw is safer ??
Not picking on you. But I disagree with the concept that something a new person would be more likely to try would be worse.
A 50cc scooter or 200 cc motorcycle over a crotch rocket. Learning to drive a manual miata instead of a porsche GT 2. People learn to fly a cessna 172 easier than a complex baron or king air. I teach shooting safety .. and competition shooting. A 22 single shot rifle is still dangerous in the wrong hands.. but its easier to start using less intimidating.. less complex gear..

 

[quantico]

Peoples training does not improve because they start with a more powerful complex device.. it starts low and hopefully gets better.

 

[TheJollyLogger]

Peoples training does not improve because they start with a more powerful complex device.. it starts low and hopefully gets better.

The difference in my eyes is the intimidation factor, and I am talking about homeowners... if they purchase a gas operated saw, they are much more likely to watch a few videos, or ask for help, versus an electric saw that just seems so simple, and yet it is still turning a chain into wood.

To use your firearm analogy, a new gun owner is much less likely to seek training if his first purchase is a bolt action .22 than if he purchases an AR 15, yet both are equally dangerous if used improperly, that was my only point. I think battery operated saws are equally dangerous as gas operated... if anything more so just because they are easier to get that chain spinning, which is the real danger of a saw. My only point was it is more likely for a noob to buy a battery saw in the mistaken idea that it is "safer".

 

[quantico]

I see your point of view.
Homeowners have been buying gas chainsaws around 100 bucks for 40 years. Still dangerous.
I still prefer more simple tech if your not well skilled. 50 years ago fewer people had negligent discharges with a 6 shot colt or s&w revolver than people do with a ruger or taurus or glock 9mm.. in my opinion

 

[TheJollyLogger]

I see your point of view.
Homeowners have been buying gas chainsaws around 100 bucks for 40 years. Still dangerous.
I still prefer more simple tech if your not well skilled. 50 years ago fewer people had negligent discharges with a 6 shot colt or s&w revolver than people do with a ruger or taurus or glock 9mm.. in my opinion

It is the same as the top handle versus rear handle debate, in my opinion... a top handle is no more inherently dangerous than a rear handle... still just a motor running a chain... but because of the control design it does require more training... as far as the electric/battery saws go, I think the true danger is just for the untrained to think of them as just another skilsaw or Sawzall, and not appreciate kickback, lack of safeties, etc. In short, in my opinion, buy a battery or electric saw for convenience, but not because it is "safer".

 

[quantico]

I have three of each.. love the battery pole saws.
Still prefer my gas stihl pro saws. Lighter and faster chain speed. And no cord or batteries.
I do agree that people seem to think battery saws require less skill or training. And that of couse is false.
When i do live ammo gun training.. for people interested in competition.. my first bit of business is the facility address if 911 is needed and my med bag with quick clot huge patches in case of a gun wound.. people seem to realize safety is not optional in a class on high speed precision shooting..

 

[Philbert]

Nobody wants to talk about how most chaps WON'T stop an electric saw???

Nothing to talk about. It’s a myth. A rumor that keeps getting spread.

Chaps are not RATED for electric chainsaws because the test is based on a gas saw. While SOME electric chainsaws (larger, higher amperage) may cut through SOME chaps (especially thinner ones), SOME gasoline powered chainsaws (especially large displacement, higher speed models) will also cut through SOME chaps.

Go watch the videos on YouTube. See if you can find one with cut-through where the operator (any saw) is not trying to do this intentionally. Post the link if you find one.

Many battery saws have overload circuits which shut them down immediately. Many electric saws also have electronic brakes which stop the chain immediately.

Philbert

 

[KarlD]

To add to the confusion, I am extra extra cautious when I use a th saw, less so with a rear handle on the ground. I used to be relatively un-cautious when using a silky...but having only ever cut myself with a silky, and nicked my climbing line with it, I try to be extra cautious with the silky now.
So based on my experience, the most dangerous saw is a silky...which really doesn’t make sense I guess.
Reality is surprising sometimes ...I have no idea if this is the case but I expect direct chainsaw injuries are way less common amongst arborists, loggers, fellers etc than other related injuries like slips, trips, falls, rigging and climbing errors etc. I could be very wrong though?

 

[Wow]

I own several of both. I have run gas chainsaws 40 plus years and I am no pro, but I use them carefully with gloves and eye and hearing protection.
My daughter is 28 and strong, i would not let her run a gas chainsaw, at least so far. But I have let her run a corded harbor freight 14 inch plug in saw with my supervision and watching her. Usual stuff about stance and no cuts reaching or over her head. I think being able to talk to her is a huge plus. Plus the safest part is they cut slower and you can put them down to rest between cuts. No hot muffler or gas around as well. Battery saws you need to really watch the switch, a gas saw will not start itself.. and a plug in saw can be unplugged easily.
For me, the fatigue factor is the most unsafe part of a gas chainsaw. Once started you push yourself to make as many cuts before you shut the saw off.
I was in a tree with a plug in chainsaw / harbor freight and the switch failed in the ON position. That was not super fun as I had no free hand to unplug. I think I dropped the saw on the ground and threw it. The saw was recalled and exchanged, but that failure could be pretty dangerous to someone with less experience.
My main saw now is a stihl 200T with pro chain and 14 inch bar. I find the light saw with lightweight bar less stressful to cut with. The pro chain might not be ideal for a new unskilled person. But I tend to not loan out gas chainsaws but offer to cut things if friends or neighbors need stuff done. I assume many of you hesitate to loan out chainsaws.. unless a person is experienced.
So in some cases I feel that a battery or plug in saw is safer.. but I hope idiots still show them a lot of respect. I feel a real gas saw that folks cant figure out how to start. Might be a safety factor.
I think a lighter smaller saw with less power can be a better starting point for people learning.

What caught my attention was the comment about the corded saw SWITCH failure..
I was using a WORX 16 inch high amp corded Chainsaw bucking some firewood right at my front door..The switch failed in the ON position.
That saw has the hand safety right on the front of the handle.. MY first INSTINCT was to flip the safety stop..That Stopped the moving chain BUT did NOT stop the POWER to the motor..Now the saw was Drawing HIGH AMPS..Unplugging any electrical device when the line is loaded is dangerous..Fortunately there was a On/OFF switch feeding the Extension Cord..By the time I was able to cut power to the saw the motor was burned up.
I opened the saw and learned that the BRAKE on that saw is NOT a separate Switch.. It's a mechanical device which locks the Saw blade and is SUPPOSED to flip the trigger switch OFF..So when the TRIGGER switch fails to open the safety brake fails to cut power and you burn the motor up..Now you know..The WORX saw has a dangerous flaw in it's design..I've got two WORX saws..I think this photo is the big one. It may be smaller one which is a limbing saw and at times has a bigger bar added..the big worx uses a 16 inch bar..It was cutting good when it was cutting..they need TWO switches in series.. When ONE fails the other one will shut power off..The emergency stop needs a different switch..ALL electric saws NEEDS two off switches.

 

[J D]

Interesting observation.
While I have never dismembered one, I would expect most battery saws to have a mechanical chain brake & also low current switches on all the safety features (chain brake, handle, trigger, etc). The switches would go back to the controller which would switch/modulate current to the motor with a switching FET or something similar.
What's interesting about that is as a tech, I see plenty of these devices (FET's, Triac's, etc) that have failed... & a decent proportion of them fail shorted

 

[Philbert]

Most have electrical disconnects or electric brakes.

I have had other electric tools fail in the ‘On’ position, due to very fine sawdust in the contacts. On good quality tools. In fairness, I know of a couple of STIHL, gas, chainsaws that would not shut off, and had to be ‘choked out’ to stop.

Part of working safely is to wait for the chain to stop, and not just assume that it will when you release the trigger.

Philbert

 

[Wow]

My 32 year old daughter was a daddies girl..at 4 or 5 years old I had her trained how to secure a line. It was a weekend and I had no help but wanted to climb into a tree and pull my saw up..Kasey was right there wanting to help so I got up in the tree and dropped a line..That little girl secured the line to my saw perfectly..She stood way back while I did my trimming when I lowered my saw and came down..She was one tough kid..The baby girl actually helped me break four donkey's to ride..They were cute but harder to break than any horse I've ever worked with..There was one gelded jack (He forgave me) that was so well trained he would ride in the back of my pick up truck..My experience with equine is geldings are better for kids..Then the girls grew up and I started raising my grandsons. Here on the property I had built a private camp grounds and the children learned how to build small boats.. I loved being self employed because I could take a kid with me or we could change schedules..Everyone is gone now even the donkey's but I still work my self silly keeping up..Mooka the 24 year old is stationed in a combat zone at the moment but I had a huge tree damaged and I'm saving it for him to drop. It's good practice for him and he will appreciate the opportunity..Normally if the tree is difficult I'll make a new wooden wedge and let him date it and keep it when the tree is down..I make some pretty wooden wedges for the ones I give away..

 

[Wow]

Interesting observation.
While I have never dismembered one, I would expect most battery saws to have a mechanical chain brake & also low current switches on all the safety features (chain brake, handle, trigger, etc). The switches would go back to the controller which would switch/modulate current to the motor with a switching FET or something similar.
What's interesting about that is as a tech, I see plenty of these devices (FET's, Triac's, etc) that have failed... & a decent proportion of them fail shorted

I wish that were the case,, I would have expected the same thing..being as I have a degree in electronics..BUT my WORX only has a trigger switch with a mechanical device which has a chain brake and is supposed to open the trigger switch and HOLD it open..the way they fool you is if the chain brake is forward the saw will not run when the trigger switch is manually pulled..BUT if the trigger switch fails to OPEN the mechanical Chain stop WILL stop the MOTOR and LOAD the line and BURN up the motor.. Somewhere I have photos..This is UNACCEPTABLE as a design and I see it as a flaw..I was HIGHLY pizzed when I saw that this is WHY my saw burned up while I could NOT get it disconnected fast enough..JUST having that OTHER MISSING switch would have saved my saw.. I'm still pizzed..I'm easy going but crap like that is TRASHY..I dislike a liar a thief and a man who does sorry azz work..I prefer a rattle snake on my land..BTW, I still have the small Limbing WORX the 50 dollar one at walmart does NOT self oil the bar and I hate those things..I grew up with those ole PUSH the deal with your thumb to oil a bar and THAT is crappy.. I grew up with antique everything..IF a saw don't oil the bar while I'm cutting (and I still have a couple of those) I'm not real anxious to use that saw..WORX can build a better saw IF they wanted TO...I'll keep what I have until they die or I die then my grandsons can burn the dam things or love them. At 74 I'm still climbing one in a while and I do like a LIGHT electric. This fall (hope I don't fall) I'll probably use my climbing deer stand to trim some lower limbs. Some of these oaks grow low limbs that hang down so low they make it difficult to bush hog around the trees..I can climb and cut as I go up with my light 9 amp WORX limbing saw.Short bar and hope I don't have an accident..That model has auto bar oiling..Wish I could top a few trees (before they get to tall) but I'm not sure iF I want to take the chance at my age......

 

[Wow]

Interesting observation.
While I have never dismembered one, I would expect most battery saws to have a mechanical chain brake & also low current switches on all the safety features (chain brake, handle, trigger, etc). The switches would go back to the controller which would switch/modulate current to the motor with a switching FET or something similar.
What's interesting about that is as a tech, I see plenty of these devices (FET's, Triac's, etc) that have failed... & a decent proportion of them fail shorted

Here is a photo of the side opened on the Big WORX. There is ONLY one electric switch as you see..The band brake is there and the white metal device is what is stopping the main Switch from CLOSING when the safety brake is ON..BUT if the main switch has stuck in the ON position the safety lock only tightens the band brake and the POWER is STILL applied to the motor..I've taken lots of photos can make more if need be..The saw is still here..Zoom in and it's better. I BELIEVE there should be TWO off switches built into this system..you can clearly see that is NOT the case..It's clearly a design flaw..ANYONE who knows electricity would expect a better arrangement..

 

[J D]

To be honest that's about what I would expect for a budget line mains saw. It would have to have a mechanical chain brake & a single electrical switch with a mechanical connection to the chain brake would be the cheapest way to achieve the minimum necessary cutouts. Not the best way to do it for obvious reasons but the most cost effective. The motor will likely have a thermal fuse that should have blown... If it's not buried to deep in there you might be able to replace it.
With battery saws it's a bit different as they need a controller circuit board anyway & it's cheaper & more reliable to switch the higher current DC with solid state chips than mechanical contacts.
Manufacturers must have that part of the control circuits fairly sorted though as you don't really hear of run away battery drills or sabre saws & the fundamental design would be comparable

 

[Wow]

To be honest that's about what I would expect for a budget line mains saw. It would have to have a mechanical chain brake & a single electrical switch with a mechanical connection to the chain brake would be the cheapest way to achieve the minimum necessary cutouts. Not the best way to do it for obvious reasons but the most cost effective. The motor will likely have a thermal fuse that should have blown... If it's not buried to deep in there you might be able to replace it.
With battery saws it's a bit different as they need a controller circuit board anyway & it's cheaper & more reliable to switch the higher current DC with solid state chips than mechanical contacts.
Manufacturers must have that part of the control circuits fairly sorted though as you don't really hear of run away battery drills or sabre saws & the fundamental design would be comparable

 

[Wow]

View attachment 914307

Here is a photo. That big white plastic part acts like a bearing. The shaft was so hot it stuck firmly. It's such a piece of crap it's NOT worth MY TIME messing with it. Im aware of 3 Worx saws. The big one 14 or 16 inch bar. It sells for about 80 bucks. The crap one that doesn't oil it's own bar sold for around 50 bucks at Wallyworld and the limb and trim sells at WW for under 100. The limb and trim is ok. I use it with an inverter and deep cycle battery or a 1500 watt generator. It's heavy when filly extended and a counter weight is added. I've got sick of cleaning carbs and I thought just for those times a saw and 30 minutes of work for a small job, the Electric saw might be a good idea. I'm very familiar with battery tools and l hate batteries. Replacing batteries cost and the margin between what you saved on gas and oil shrinks as the batteries age. A corded chainsaw just for 75 feet of a service is handy. The ONLY REASON I bought WORX was based upon reviews by Duh and Duh someone. That site ( don't look for it that's not the real name) was shall we say, BRAVE enough to recommend Poulan and Remington gas saws as well, I've decided that most of those, " The 10 best saws for 2021 are" just idiots rewriting reviews from other sites. When I read, "The chain gets hot and loose so it gets 2* ". I think HOMEOWNER who has no clue. We ALL know WHY bar gets hot chain gets loose. I love reading on line. Some guy gave a bad review on an Echo 490 because HE BROKE the side plate putting the bar on the saw without lining up the tension pin in the tension hole of the bar. Bad flaw in the saw! REALLY!
I'm amazed. If we believed 1/4 of the lies, idiots, and decietful and unskilled beings speak on line and on Fake News we'd surely vote Biden. One Hum depo review said the Echo cs490 cranked right up after he pumped the primer bulb. WHAT! WHEN did a cs490 grow a primer bulb! I'm not making plans to buy another Electric saw and I think the Echo cs310 is a wast of good money when a few bucks more the cs352 will go home with you. Please understand that at 74 my patience with idiots, liars and confused does get a little frayed around the edges. Blessings

 

[Oldtoolsnewproblems]

If I were a gambling man I'd say that worx had a internal fuse that was speccd wrong and it has been drawing extra current for a while until that switch welded itself on. Then there was nothing to cut it out when it locked on, which is impressive because it must have been drawing gobs of current

 

[softdown]

Risk of shock and goes through chaps. But lighter. Toss up.

 

[Philbert]

Risk of shock and goes through chaps.

See if you can find a YouTube video showing a corded or battery-powered chainsaw cutting through chaps, and please post a link here?

Philbert