Are you a Root Abuser?

[jamied]

Do you try and grow grass right up to your tree? Never bought a bag of mulch? Pile tons of dirt around your tree for a flower bed? Read more, you may be a root abuser.

Grass sucks up water and nutrients and prevents them from getting to your tree. Also putting excess soil around your tree helps to smother you tree. Trees need to be able to exchange oxygen with their roots. Many people also spray chemicals on their lawns that don't help the trees at all. It's amazing just how many trees tolerate this abuse for long periods of time, but sooner or later it catches up to the tree and one spring it just doesn't leaf out.

Mulch is similar to what is found in nature, such as in forests. It helps retain moisture while allowing the roots to get access to oxygen. So go ahead and make that mulch ring as large as you can tolerate. Dig out the grass, use your hose close to the tree to clear away soil, it's messy, but needs to be done.

Many trees are also planted too deep either at the time of planting or because soil was piled on later, either way this often leads to the trees demise.

If your having problems with your tree and your tree is looking like any of these photos, it is very likely the first issue you need to address.

I Will update this as I gather more photos.

What happens to your tree when you abuse the roots:

Root Abuse Corrected (it can be corrected and many times the tree can be saved by excavating the root collar to the proper level and replacing grass and excess dirt with the proper amount of mulch):

Proper planting:

 

[ChrisWNY]

Most of the 20+ trees on my 2-acre lot have mulch beds surrounding them, none were planted too deep as to cause girdling root issues at the base of the trunk. All of my trees were planted above grade by at least a few inches. However, I have since allowed my turf to grow right up around the trunks of my hybrid Poplars which have grown some 20' in about 3 years (they started off as twigs). The hybrids don't seem to mind and are growing as vigorously now as they were a year or two ago when they had some mulch around them to help them get established. Turf does not root as deeply as most trees (most turf only roots 3-4" into the topsoil) so many tree species do just fine with turf growing around them. Have plenty of friends and family that have amazingly enormous, healthy, majestic Oaks where the turf grows right up to the base of the trunk. Turf is more of a concern with young seedlings as the two will compete for water and nutrients until the seedling grows more roots and becomes established, at that point the turf and the seedling will no longer be in the same heated competition.

Trees that are planted too deeply will suffer the same die-back and root girdling problems whether planted deeply in a mulch bed or on turf grass. In those photos above, the problem with dieback/decline was likely related to planting depth and not turf grass.

Other factors that can cause similar problems - soil compaction from heavy foot traffic or construction machinery driven over the root zone, adding too much fill or topsoil right up to the base of the trunk, flooding/over-watering, etc.

 

[jamied]

Most of the 20+ trees on my 2-acre lot have mulch beds surrounding them, none were planted too deep as to cause girdling root issues at the base of the trunk.

Great!

All of my trees were planted above grade by at least a few inches.

That is something most people don't do that while isn't necessary, likely helped you avoid issues.

However, I have since allowed my turf to grow right up around the trunks of my hybrid Poplars which have grown some 20' in about 3 years (they started off as twigs). The hybrids don't seem to mind and are growing as vigorously now as they were a year or two ago when they had some mulch around them to help them get established.

A hybrid poplar isn't probably the tree I would have chosen to use as an example, It's about the fastest growing non-weed tree within it's range and will aggressively compete for resources. I'm on the edge of zone 4/5 and I've seen more like 10 to 15 feet a year from my hybrid poplars.

Turf does not root as deeply as most trees (most turf only roots 3-4" into the topsoil) so many tree species do just fine with turf growing around them. Have plenty of friends and family that have amazingly enormous, healthy, majestic Oaks where the turf grows right up to the base of the trunk. Turf is more of a concern with young seedlings as the two will compete for water and nutrients until the seedling grows more roots and becomes established, at that point the turf and the seedling will no longer be in the same heated competition.

True, when a tree is young it is most vulnerable, and it is lesser so as it gets older. However in order to get grass to grow up to many trees, they need to have extra soil put on top of the roots and the tree ends up being buried too deep.

Also putting grass up to a tree subjects it to mower and weed wacker damage.

Mulch it's self also benefits the tree by breaking down and supply nutrients as well as holding moisture around the root zone while allowing air to get to the roots. Something that the combination of grass and the soil required to support it are not very good at.

Your correct there any many old trees that appear to tolerate the grass and perhaps many do just fine. I still stay it is an extra stressor that there is no reason to subject the tree to, even though it is less stress to an older tree than a younger one.

Trees that are planted too deeply will suffer the same die-back and root girdling problems whether planted deeply in a mulch bed or on turf grass. In those photos above, the problem with dieback/decline was likely related to planting depth and not turf grass.

Being planted too deep and having grass around the tree are often one in the same. How do you plant grass up tight to many tree species that have surface roots if your not putting soil on top of them?

I believe it is much more difficult for someone to damage a tree with mulch than it is with an arsenal of soil, grass seed, a mower, and a weed wacker. (not to mention the chemicals that often get dumped on the grass.)

Other factors that can cause similar problems - soil compaction from heavy foot traffic or construction machinery driven over the root zone, adding too much fill or topsoil right up to the base of the trunk, flooding/over-watering, etc.

Of course there are other factors, I wasn't trying to imply that this was the one and only cause of tree death and decline. I called this root abuse, though I did single out the grass issue, you do point out some other common forms of root abuse.

I see the adding of too much fill and planting of grass to be virtually one in the same; most people add extra fill so they can plant grass.

The other items you mention are important and should be considered when looking at a tree in ill health.

Using mulch properly is an easy way that the average person can avoid a number of issues that commonly lead to decline. While you pointed out and we all know it is possible to grow grass up to a tree, it is far from ideal for the tree.

If you or anyone else wants to grow grass up to their trees, that's fine, they are your trees, I'm not trying to berate anyone for how they care for their trees. I put this here to help educate people about a common reason for tree decline in a residential setting.

Jamie

 

[ChrisWNY]

Being planted too deep and having grass around the tree are often one in the same. How do you plant grass up tight to many tree species that have surface roots if your not putting soil on top of them?

No soil necessary - an established lawn will grow into mulch beds and gardens unless root barriers are used. Root barriers around a mulch bed used for trees is not a good idea for a number of reasons. Kentucky Blue grass and creeping red fescue spread via rhizomes (which is why bluegrass is great for a self-repairing lawn) so the grass will aggressively expand into a nice, moist mulch bed without thinking twice. I often find myself ripping out bluegrass from nearly all of my mulch beds on a weekly basis.

I believe it is much more difficult for someone to damage a tree with mulch than it is with an arsenal of soil, grass seed, a mower, and a weed wacker. (not to mention the chemicals that often get dumped on the grass.)\

The plastic trunk guards work great to protect from weedwhacker damage, I have a large riding mower so I can't get anywhere near the trunks with that. I've never used pesticides or chemicals on my lawn, I use organic fertilizers twice per year to keep the lawn growing strong in Spring and Fall.

Of course there are other factors, I wasn't trying to imply that this was the one and only cause of tree death and decline. I called this root abuse, though I did single out the grass issue, you do point out some other common forms of root abuse.

I see the adding of too much fill and planting of grass to be virtually one in the same; most people add extra fill so they can plant grass.

It's tough to keep a mulch bed or mound free of grass that spreads via rhizomes, most turf grasses will creep their way in and take over on their own, I wasn't about to waste any more time pulling bluegrass from around my hybrid poplars, saved myself a lot of time and hassle just allowing it to grow in. Put trunk guards on the hybrids to keep them from being damaged by the weedwhacker. Pre-emergents such as Preen do nothing to stop plants that spread via rhizomes.

I wasn't trying to contradict anything you stated, most of it is true, but the key is to avoid soil compaction and planting too deeply. I'd say the next most common cause of tree decline is over or under watering. The third cause would be insect and fungal invasion. Lawns are often fertilized regularly and watered to keep them in decent shape, trees both young and old benefit from that. Turf grass, IMO, is the least of the problems.

 

[grilling24x7]

You say dig out the grass around the tree to extend the mulch ring. Any concern for digging up surface roots? I have two Yoshino cherry trees that I'd like to extend the mulch ring a bit but i'm afraid dig a shovel a couple inches to get the grass up.

 

[jamied]

You say dig out the grass around the tree to extend the mulch ring. Any concern for digging up surface roots? I have two Yoshino cherry trees that I'd like to extend the mulch ring a bit but i'm afraid dig a shovel a couple inches to get the grass up.

On an existing trees the safest way to remove grass is to use the hose to saturate the area then just pull out as much grass as you can get. You will need to establish an outer edge to the circle, normally by gently digging a couple inches, then you pull out all grass inside that. Note: It's a bit messy, but is really pretty easy once the area is wet enough.

Then lay down a couple sheets of newspaper or cardboard on top of the soil before you mulch, it will help kill off any grass you missed by blocking light, but won't harm the tree.

Jamie
Neenah, WI

 

[ChrisWNY]

You say dig out the grass around the tree to extend the mulch ring. Any concern for digging up surface roots? I have two Yoshino cherry trees that I'd like to extend the mulch ring a bit but i'm afraid dig a shovel a couple inches to get the grass up.

Chances are you won't dig up enough roots to cause long-term harm to the Cherry tree, but there is a better (no pulling grass necessary) way of removing grass from around your Cherry - use a weed whacker to scalp the grass then cover up the scalped area with cardboard and throw some mulch over it. Avoid using the weed whacker in close proximity to the trunk as you don't want to damage the bark. Grass doesn't like to be scalped, the scalping alone will often kill it, the cardboard will keep the Sun from getting at anything that survived.

Wet everything down with a hose when you're done, give it a good soaking. Don't mulch all the way up to the trunk, you may have to pull grass that is touching or near the base of the tree trunk. Throw some Preen or another preemergent on the mulch to prevent weeds from growing. No worries about digging up any roots and causing harm to your tree; the grass will likely not grow through the cardboard, yet the cardboard will break down and return to the soil. I did this when I expanded the mulch bed underneath my River Birch last year, worked like a charm.

 

[user 6919]

Root Guards - Leave in or Take out?

This thread is timely for me, as I'm trying to improve the health of my trees. I have 4 Liquidambar trees that have been planted about 6 years ago. All had root guards inserted along with deep watering pipes. I just had an Arborist out to evaluate and trim the trees. He suggested removing the root guards or at least the top 6-8 inches so that surface roots could spread out and collect water and nutrients. I already had the sod removed in circles, but he had me expand them since the trees are now larger.

The question is this; the root guards are so tightly buried that I can't possibly remove them on my own and they're a super thick plastic that I cannot cut. There are also roots growing over the tops of them and presumably through them, so I don't want to damage existing roots. I appreciate anyone's thoughts on what to do. I would like to leave them be if possible, but am I jeopardizing the health of my tree? Would taking them out hurt it worse than leaving them in?

Thank you very much, Christina

PS: If a photo would help, I'd be happy to take one.

 

[derwoodii]

Leave them roots be, to be sure a picture would help .

Wondering why root guards were installed 1st up, often the reason is to avoid roots vs infrastructure impact path pipes etc and Liquid A notorious for this.

 

[user 6919]

View attachment 190835View attachment 190836

I'm attempting to attach two photos. The root guards were installed because we had extensive hardsurface replaced due to the surface roots of a previous tree. The Landscape Architect at the time, suggested it. It seems as this is frowned upon now.

Thanks for responding! I really appreciate any and all advice!

 

[derwoodii]

View attachment 190835View attachment 190836

I'm attempting to attach two photos. The root guards were installed because we had extensive hardsurface replaced due to the surface roots of a previous tree. The Landscape Architect at the time, suggested it. It seems as this is frowned upon now.

Thanks for responding! I really appreciate any and all advice!

Cut away what root barrier you can without harming / impacting the trees roots.

Them Liquid A's are just baby's, wait 20 years see what damage they may do to the kerb path especially the one near to the road. But until then enjoy the shade they bring from your hot San Diego sun.

:msp_confused:Thats just weird to replace a site with previous infrastructure damage with Liquid A

One seems to have lost it top, nay to worry much they fix em selfs fairly well.

 

[derwoodii]

In reference to the thread OP thread. Yup sadly my job can find me being very hard on tree roots. The decision is not taken lightly, often I refuse and seek alternative (costly) measures but sometimes its cut some root or loose the tree.

Oh thats a tungsten carbide saw chain and a typical liquid A

 

[user 6919]

Cut away what root barrier you can without harming / impacting the trees roots.

Them Liquid A's are just baby's, wait 20 years see what damage they may do to the kerb path especially the one near to the road. But until then enjoy the shade they bring from your hot San Diego sun.

:msp_confused:Thats just weird to replace a site with previous infrastructure damage with Liquid A

One seems to have lost it top, nay to worry much they fix em selfs fairly well.

Ok, sounds good. I may try to slice them from top to bottom as at least the roots can get out.

The top you mentioned died, so most of it was cut away and the healthy branches were reshaped to hopefully become the new top. I'm glad to hear that they'll fix themselves as this is what the Arborist said as well: "it will pick a new top". :msp_smile: