Asplundh Chipper Help - Manuals

[Ed Roland]

Don't bother making modifications to it. even killing the engine will allow the blades to coast for a long time, and still have plenty of power while coasting to chip a body.
respect is the key, not modifications. treat it with kid gloves and act like its a rabid dog that will bite you if given the chance. because it will.
fear is a good thing, let it turn into respect, and never lose that.
-Ralph.

Thats a mighty fine posting. I'll be giving some rep, shortly.
I didn't know that about the self-feeds, but it makes a lot of sense.

 

[begleytree]

http://www.tskgrinding.com/wood_chipper_safety.asp

 

[Warteetee]

Thanks for the link - The one thing I am stil missing is the manual for this beast. I am coming at this from a bad point of view - this is the first chipper I have ever used - little or small - and I don't know anything about the machine. I have left several messages for Altec to obtain a manual but that has gone knowhere.

What is the smallest "log" you would insert into the hopper? I have a pile of pine that I went all the way and cut into logs - I assume if is very unsafe to throw them in to chip.

 

[ropensaddle]

The machines like you have are awesome chippers
When you get wedges and blades out you will find they
rest on adjustable bolts! These are to set blades out from
rotor at proper distance. There is a margin guide on the outer
case; lay the blades in and adjust them to around the margin
or just hair below, by sliding blade from one side to the other
and adjusting holder to push blade to position. This step is
sometimes missed by people and will make chipper not perform
as it is designed to as it sets blade. Then you set cutter bar to
the blades and turn rotor backwards while getting it set and set
clearance as close as possible without them making contact.
Also after torquing turn backwards a few turns to make sure
blades do not contact bar and you have one bad chipper.
I have used these over twenty years and they are safe if proper
used, but beware of wire in your work area anything that could get
hung in rotor and pull you in, rope ,barbwire etc.

 

[ropensaddle]

Don't bother making modifications to it. even killing the engine will allow the blades to coast for a long time, and still have plenty of power while coasting to chip a body.
respect is the key, not modifications. treat it with kid gloves and act like its a rabid dog that will bite you if given the chance. because it will.
fear is a good thing, let it turn into respect, and never lose that.
-Ralph

edit: if its any consolation, of all the chipper deaths in the US, none are from 'chuck and duck' chippers like yours. they all involve self feeders. those can cause a man to get complacent due to the illusion of total control of the feeding and chipping process.

Yeah my thoughts too why do the drums
get the bad rep they last and last that is what is important to me and
safety is mostly operator.

 

[Warteetee]

Blades

Is it true that all of the blades must be exactly/very close to the same weight or the machine will be out of whack? Guess the question comes down to if I get these sharpened - do they have to weight them and make sure they are spot on in weight? Is there a point where the blades (which started out at 3" wide) should not be sharpened again - 2.5, 2.75, 2.0?

Thanks for the information on how to set the blades in. I took out the top bolts to one of the blades last night. Now I am going to use the long one in the short hole to get that out. Guestion about that - Does the long bolt make contact with the drum through the wedge - is that the method of pushing it up through direct pressure of the bolt/drum?
Thanks

 

[ropensaddle]

Is it true that all of the blades must be exactly/very close to the same weight or the machine will be out of whack? Guess the question comes down to if I get these sharpened - do they have to weight them and make sure they are spot on in weight? Is there a point where the blades (which started out at 3" wide) should not be sharpened again - 2.5, 2.75, 2.0?

Thanks for the information on how to set the blades in. I took out the top bolts to one of the blades last night. Now I am going to use the long one in the short hole to get that out. Guestion about that - Does the long bolt make contact with the drum through the wedge - is that the method of pushing it up through direct pressure of the bolt/drum?
Thanks

I'm not sure about weight but width of blades can reach replacement. They also need to be sharpened at the proper angle and I would recommend selecting a pro that has a lappit machine and experience in their sharpening. Yes the long bolt does push through to rotor to remove wedge then take a pic and clean all bolt access holes out sap and wood will compact in these areas. The adjuster bolts I mentioned have access holes in rotor so you can adjust blades from bottom! I have never paid too much attention to torque and tighten wedges as tight as I can with a break over you don't want them to come out. Also go back over them start middle go back to check they often meed to be tightened twice!
I use air to get out but tighten final by hand so I know they are tight. If allen bolt even appears to be wore replace bolt these are a bitty to get out the next time and if strip a torch will become necessity. Cutter bar adjusts under the unit in case you have not figured that out.

 

[begleytree]

the 4 long bolts when in position pass thru the wedge and bolt into the drum. the short one is threaded into the wedge to block debris out of the hole. the long bolt will thread into the wedge and make contact with the drum, forcing the wedge up and out. this usually takes a few hits with an impact, or a lot of turning with a breakerbar. there are easier brands of drum chippers to change the blades in and setting the hiegth is easier on other brands too, but the asplundh whisper chipper is a good solid chipper that you will use for many years to come.
-Ralph

 

[Warteetee]

Chipper Blades - Stuck Bolt

Ralph,

I got out 15 of the 16 bolts with a little elbow grease. The 16th does not have square edges and the wrench just turns. Do you have any tricks to get a turned bolt out?
Thanks again ofr all of the advice.

 

[ropensaddle]

allen head stripped out? If so I know of two ways to get
out try tack welding a allen wrench to bolt and if that don't
work carefully torch the bolt without cutting wedge. Is it
one of the long bolts?

 

[ropensaddle]

If it is a long bolt after cutting bolt head with torch
screw in long bolt to push wedge enough to loosen it
and wiggle wedge off of remaining bolt. Once you have
wedge out channel locks will usually get the rest of bolt
out!

 

[ropensaddle]

If it is the short bolt try to beat wedge to loosen it
wd 40 and a blunt drift tap on wedge to get it out once you
have loose it and have out take it to machine shop and pay
them to extract it!

 

[Warteetee]

Turned Bolt

It is one of the long bolts on the far end. There is just a little left to hold onto, I will try tacking the wrench on and getting it out that way. Where is a good spot to buy replacement bolts for the wedge - the 4 long bolts?
Thanks

 

[begleytree]

Rope has it on the stuck bolts. usually the heat from the tack weld combined with a good grip on it brings it out. try to cut off a piece of 3/8 allen shank and weld that into the bolthead, then take a 3/8 socket and break it loose.
yeah, it makes a difference if its a short or long bolt. in a way. they all still have to come out as it were.

I get my replacements at the machine shop myself. they have grade 8 allen heads here that are an exact match. surely yours does too.
-Ralph

 

[Warteetee]

Bolt Ain't Coming Out

Welded on the shank m- nice and tight. One turn of the allen and it snapped in half (guess a pretty good weld). Now I got a welded on allens to a bolt which I can't get out. What next?

I also found a place to do my blades which does the blades for the rental places and the printing presses - 12$ for the 16" blade - sounds like a good deal if they do a solid job.

 

[Warteetee]

Forget the last post

This forum is to learn about chippers, wood and the such - not for me to ask about getting out a stupid stuck bolt.

Sorry for the misplaced post about my machine issus. I will keep future postes to those dealing with arbo-issues.

 

[begleytree]

everythings cool War. I moved the thread yesterday. putting subjects in the correct forums keeps this place looking like it has some semblance of order, and nets a topic better answers and views by responders who can help you with your issues.
by all means continue to post your chipper experiences here. this is where they should be, and perhaps between the users we can help you, and maybe someone else in your postition as well.


RE: stuck bolt. all I know of now is you need to use the heat wrench. put a deflector of some sort behind the bolt to keep most of the heat off the bearings. imo, you won't hurt them, but the rubber seals on the bearings can't take much heat, and will cause you to lose grease leading to a bearing failure. the drum is a big solid chuck of metal, so it can take a lot of heat, just keep the flame from going down between the machine and drum onto the spindle and you'll be fine. heat usually cures all with these I've found.
-Ralph

 

[Warteetee]

I think I will call in my neighbor for I do not want to mess this machine up. I will keep you posted as to if I get this bolt out.

By the way, is $12 to sharpen these 16" blades a good deal?

Thanks again

 

[begleytree]

My guy charges $1 an inch. my blades are double sided so thats 60 total inches. at $12 per set, your guys is charging 0.18 per inch, or if its $12 per blade, thats still cheaper at 0.75 per inch than I'm paying.
yeah, either way you're doing ok.
heres where most of us get our replacement blades, BTW. http://www.zenithcutter.com/product...parts.cfm?machineName=ASPLUNDH&model=16" DRUM
-Ralph

 

[Warteetee]

Thanks for the post, given this is my first chipper, I am going to buy a new set from your post and just keep my olds ones for later honing - thanks for the link