Attachment knot question

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Redbull

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This is basically a hangmans knoose with only 2-3 wraps. I was wondering if this was a safe way to attach a carabiner/snap. I've gone over all the possibilities in my head as far as why it would/wouldn't work, I would like some second opinions though. It seems safe to me and maybe others already use it so please chime in if you have.
Thanks, Brandon
 
I need more pics.
big_cigar.gif
 
Looks interesting.

Although before I put my life on it, Id bounce a pretty good piece of wood on one to make sure it was going to hold if I were to take a fall.
 
Nice looking seat, any chance of a view of the rest of the chair?

Oh the knot, silly me, looks fine and ought to lock down tight. Could it be a bit of a bounder to untie?
 
As far as a stopper goes, I was going to tape the tail to the working side of the rope. Untying isn't bad either. Although I haven't loaded it with my body weight yet.
 
body weight?

Redbull said:
As far as a stopper goes, I was going to tape the tail to the working side of the rope. Untying isn't bad either. Although I haven't loaded it with my body weight yet.
Don't use your body weight to test it. Tie one end of the rope to a tree or solid object and attach your hangmans setup with the carabiner to the back of your truck. Have one of the guys drive the truck away. What just happened to your knot? Did your stopper, the taped up end, just pull through the wraps and you lost the knot? Your test needs to be severe, your life depends on whether or not this holds under load. I know an anchor hitch will hold till the rope breaks, will your knot do the same or slip through the wraps and be lost? I know you're going to say you'll never put that kind of a load on it but your life depends on will it hold or unwind. So before you try it in a tree try it on the truck.
 
One of the most severe tests of knot stability is intermittent pulls of different ranges, from different angles that flirt the rope from it's mount (din't mean it like that; but i like how ya think!). Like for a boat tied to dock, and the tides and waves testing continuously at different angles, strengths and directions etc. Tensile tests always, but especially in the varied dynamics, angles, loading etc. of climbing i think the considerations of the boat test lesson should be viewed.

i think that it would seem that this would pass; but i don't think that the lacing puts as an immediate, intense pressure on the bitter end for most positive trap. The bowline is inline trap at full load before carabiner. Fisherperson's has force reduced as line laces carabiner before trap on bitter end. But then the 2 coils trap immediately on it, and the standing line pull direction would pull the bitter end towards tighter too.

This noose, reduces force around the carabiner, then traps bitter end with 1 trap loop pressure, not 2. But before that trap pressure is reduced more as has to drag thru the way these rings are placed too, before trapping bitter end. The bitter end then sits trapped by only that pressure, from 1 ring, sticks out from the line where it could get bumped and has no stopper. In sitting across standing line and not inline, it wouldn't seem the standing part would try to walk the bitter end out (like clove, tautline); but then nor would take advantage of the fisherperson's (or cow type lacing) that the standing pull would pull track into the bitter end and pull it tighter (if anything); so is neutral in that respect.

i would opt for the more tried and true, accepted forms as a rule of thumb; especially with these considerations.


edit: Sorry! The spill checker says that i miss-spilt: carabiner, tautline, towards, inline, wouldn't, fisherperson and thru(kernmantle and tarbuck in other post too)! Mebbe i will get them write next time with the Sanborniski add-on dictionary i jest downloaded!
 
Must ask, what advantages does this knot have over other knots that are used for similar purpose?

If you're gonna reinvent the wheel, might as well make it rounder!

love
nick
 
I was just looking for an alternative to a Bowline and since I've posted this thread I found the scaffold knot on "another site" that seems reliable. I will prolly stick with it since it's been proven.
 
Th Scaffold is very strong and reliable but it is not always easily untied after loading. The Buntline or Anchor hitchs are better in that respect. I use Scaffolds on my Tress cords that stay tied permanently but the Buntline on the end of my climbing line.
 
NickfromWI said:
Must ask, what advantages does this knot have over other knots that are used for similar purpose?

If you're gonna reinvent the wheel, might as well make it rounder!

love
nick
LuvNik's hit the nail on the head!
As one might find in some other thread (hear, or buzzing elsewhere, I forget),
I suggest using the Fisherman's Bend aka "Anchor Bend/Hitch", which is with
the rope making 2-3 turns around the mainline then tucking the end (which
is now away from the 'biner/ring) up through the turns from the 'biner end
awaywards--it will lie parallel with the mainline.
Now, "rounder"? --it should be more easily untied than the Scaffold Knot
(or Dbl.Overhand/Strangle noose), and maybe stronger, though there seems
little room to go, in that, given one test (cited by Tom D elsewhere).

The Buntline puts so much force on the initial turn of the knot, and without
much else to work; the Anchor H. noose has more material on the mainline
to hold it snug w/o great pressure, and the awaymost turn won't be so greatly
loaded to render it jammed.
Play around with it, and see for yourself!

*knudeNoggin*
 
Safety wise, we can only speculate right now. We'd have to test it to know for sure.

Honestly, I would climb on the mini-noose knot. It'll hold. It's a tried and true knot!

And, the mini-noose has got to be suuuuper easy to untie. Just pull on the barrels and untie like the famous hangman's noose (assuming there's no neck in it !)

love
nick
 

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