Attachment to bar at Front end of Chainsaw Mill

[Raptor57]

Is your brake handle removed? On my husqys, I generally took the brake handles off to avoid hitting the post and lose even a few grams of weight.

No, I have not removed the brake handle. Will take a look at that tomorrow but the rear clamp is already pretty close to the powerhead. Likely going to do some milling tomorrow so will see how it all works as is for now.

 

[Coralillo Lo Pro]

Are all bars sprockets the same, in that, no matter the manufacturer, the center of the sprocket can be safely drilled without fear of damaging the sprocket/bar? I have Husqvarna and Forrester long bars. I am tempted to drill but fear damaging the bar. Also, what size bolt is recommended?

I've never seen the inside of a nose sprocket but I think they're like this, though this is a harvester bar. That means you want to pretty much match the hole size of the hole in the center of the toothed sprocket, would guess it's somewhere in the 1/4" range. Don't know if toothed sprockets on normal 3/8 or .404 sprockets have that hole in the center or not though. If so, you're just drilling though the exterior plates over the toothed sprocket on either side, shouldn't be all that difficult. And worst case scenario, nose sprockets are replaceable so all you can do is ruin a nose sprocket, you're not going to do any damage to the main bar. I may do one on one of my bars, I'll let you know how it goes.

 

[GeneralKayoss]

I've never seen the inside of a nose sprocket but I think they're like this, though this is a harvester bar. That means you want to pretty much match the hole size of the hole in the center of the toothed sprocket, would guess it's somewhere in the 1/4" range. Don't know if toothed sprockets on normal 3/8 or .404 sprockets have that hole in the center or not though. If so, you're just drilling though the exterior plates over the toothed sprocket on either side, shouldn't be all that difficult. And worst case scenario, nose sprockets are replaceable so all you can do is ruin a nose sprocket, you're not going to do any damage to the main bar. I may do one on one of my bars, I'll let you know how it goes.

View attachment 1186347

Me just realizing there are "oil grooves" in the bar sprocket

 

[Coralillo Lo Pro]

Me just realizing there are "oil grooves" in the bar sprocket

Only on those GB Harvester bars apparently lol, not a normal thing. Couldn't find a single diagram of what the interior of a standard 3/8" nose sprocket looks like.

 

[GeneralKayoss]

Only on those GB Harvester bars apparently lol, not a normal thing. Couldn't find a single diagram of what the interior of a standard 3/8" nose sprocket looks like.

Ah ok, so I haven't been greasing it for no reason

Great design feature though.

 

[thenne1713]

So it sounds like i really need to move it bac toward the powerhead? Lose a lot of cutting length that way. I really don't want to drill the bar but sounds like my options are pretty limited huh?

When you look at Granberg Small Log Mill or Logosol chainsaw jig products, you can easily do 24-30" without the end clamp, maybe lose (some?) accuracy? BUT, depends on your needs and YOUR PLANS? I.e. lumber to use as-is, planed, or what? I recall the CS sawyer who stated his custoner wanted her lumber "Rougher" than what she was seeing, not smoother...

 

[Raptor57]

When you look at Granberg Small Log Mill or Logosol chainsaw jig products, you can easily do 24-30" without the end clamp, maybe lose (some?) accuracy? BUT, depends on your needs and YOUR PLANS? I.e. lumber to use as-is, planed, or what? I recall the CS sawyer who stated his custoner wanted her lumber "Rougher" than what she was seeing, not smoother...

Yea, I've run a 24" mill without the end clamp but usually wouldn't get an even cut. Lumber was useable but i would have to fun it through a thickness planer and/or drum sander. Just too much work to get flat boards. At least that has been my experience.

 

[U&A]

That looks perfect. The farthest I go is bridging the outer part of the joint where the nose sprocket joins on to the main bar, just as you seem to have done there. You can see that it's far enough back you won't be pinching the teeth of the rotating nose sprocket. You just don't ever want the clamp entirely on the nose sprocket steel.

I agree with this. Make sure your clamping at least some of the bar steel with the nose sprocket steel.

 

[muddy42]

I would say your original photo was pushing the limit. See below a bar that I clamped too close and cooked the nose sprocket, you can see by the discolouration, its worse on the other side. I clamped on the marks and I now clamp where the pen is. Its better to be safe than sorry, replacing bars and tips is expensive. I managed to free up this bar, but its been permanently damaged. It requires priming with oil every time I use it.

Have you removed or shortened the felling dogs? Of use a vertical mill to remove branches / sapwood.