Back at it, this time with 84cc Dolkita

[mtngun]

I know Cannon will make a 36" in 0.050 for the Stihl large mount according to their website. But I'm not ready to spend that kind of cash. Does Stihl make an ES bar in the 36" 0.050 for the large mount?

I've never run across a 0.050" bar for the 120cc Stihls. Bear in mind that the bar needs to be fairly thin to work with low pro. I've heard Cannon bars are thicker than normal ? The bars I use with lo-pro are about 0.185" thick.

I ran my 32" low-pro setup this weekend on a cedar log with the 394 and it overpowered the chain. I was having to push really hard or run partial throttle to keep the saw from over-reving. I have a 5/50/0 grind with file-o-plate rakers. So Mntgun, do I go with more hook or take down the rakers?

Sounds like it. FOP is only 5 - 6 degrees, I rarely run less than 6.5 degrees, seems to need more as the chain wears.

I am running 7 pins on all my saws. Tried an 8, but it seemed to make the engine lug. Of course, that too, depends on the rakers.

 

[srcarr52]

I've never run across a 0.050" bar for the 120cc Stihls. Bear in mind that the bar needs to be fairly thin to work with low pro. I've heard Cannon bars are thicker than normal ? The bars I use with lo-pro are about 0.185" thick.

I'll have a few Cannon bars I'll have to take some measurements.

Sounds like it. FOP is only 5 - 6 degrees, I rarely run less than 6.5 degrees, seems to need more as the chain wears.

How do you measure raker degree? Did you make a new gauge?

I am running 7 pins on all my saws. Tried an 8, but it seemed to make the engine lug. Of course, that too, depends on the rakers.

I was running an 8 pin without issue on the 394, the 288 would have a hard time in larger wood.

 

[mtngun]

How do you measure raker degree? Did you make a new gauge?

DAF, though mostly I do it by trial and error, and merely use the DAF to measure it afterwards.

 

[BobL]

I also thought of using a rail squeezer to make one of my long stihl bars 050, but that probably is not a good idea.

Don't do it. A bar rail closer cannot compress the region of the groove near the bottom of the groove which then still allows the chain to tilt over. The chain will then cut crooked and jam the bar. Any attempt to reopen the bar groove is likely to snap off pieces off an ruin the bar.

 

[john taliaferro]

srcarr52 , Dans milling PINE he's gonna be able to pull a bit more raker than us in mid west sawing white oak . So get your daf { grizzles 27.00 } and start by setting all the cutters to 5 degrees . Its amazing how much smoother chain runs when their all doing the same work , go easey on the rakers and some where before 6 degrees or so it will start to cut oak

 

[srcarr52]

srcarr52 , Dans milling PINE he's gonna be able to pull a bit more raker than us in mid west sawing white oak . So get your daf { grizzles 27.00 } and start by setting all the cutters to 5 degrees . Its amazing how much smoother chain runs when their all doing the same work , go easey on the rakers and some where before 6 degrees or so it will start to cut oak

I already use a file-o-plate to set one raker and then I usually setup the grinder to just hit it and do all the rest, so they should be spot on. My chains cut pretty smoothly already.

I'll probably modify a file-o-plate by cutting a little out of the part that contacts the chain so I can get a little more angle... but not too much.

 

[mtngun]

Dans milling PINE he's gonna be able to pull a bit more raker than us in mid west sawing white oak . So get your daf { grizzles 27.00 } and start by setting all the cutters to 5 degrees . Its amazing how much smoother chain runs when their all doing the same work , go easey on the rakers and some where before 6 degrees or so it will start to cut oak

John, I mill douglas fir. I have no other species to compare it to, but I've heard sawyers who mill both doug and oak say that oak is easier to mill, even though oak is harder.

If you take too much off the rakers, the chain will be VERY grabby and will be more apt to leave a washboard finish, but even so, once you adapt your milling style to the grabby chain, it cuts well enough.

 

[redoakneck]

Don't do it. A bar rail closer cannot compress the region of the groove near the bottom of the groove which then still allows the chain to tilt over. The chain will then cut crooked and jam the bar. Any attempt to reopen the bar groove is likely to snap off pieces off an ruin the bar.

Thanks Bob,


The directions on the rail closer said do not over squeeze!!! I was wondering how you could open up a rail a little if you went too far but sounds like deciding not to jump off a cliff after you already jumped .

Was thinking of gettind a few strips of metal in 050 and 063 to put in the rail groove so I don't over close them. Would the closer still work??

Pete

 

[john taliaferro]

Huh ,Douglas fir i never have milled it . Oak does clear the chips better than the bit of pine i have milled. Is Douglas fir similar to pine ?
srcarr 52 Your file o plate is for cross cutting ,your gonna need a touch more for ripping

 

[redoakneck]

Oak does mill very nicely, like walnut. Ash is a little harder to me. Did a smaller red cedar which is like pine and was very soft. The ash I milled was dead so that be why it seemed harder. Still trying to find that killer cherry tree!!!