Bad Back Log Splitter

[blades]

Fan - electric - as i believe he has electric start so battery available- eng run recharges battery fan draw very small

 

[Kevin in Ohio]

At the point you are currently at, I'd suggest to use a temp meter and see what you actually have for fluid temps when operating once you get it operational. If you have access to a hand held temp meter that would maybe tell you what your course of action should be.

Another thing that has not been mentioned. Make sure you have a large line going back for the return into the tank. The bigger the better as you don't want foaming issues. Any baffle or dispersion tube in there? Your inlet/outlet holes can make a difference in both locations and sizes. Bottom line, avoid neck downs.

 

[GM_Grimmy]

Fan - electric - as i believe he has electric start so battery available- eng run recharges battery fan draw very small

There are a lot of different versions of that motor, anywhere from 3A, 5A, 10A and 17A recharge rates. That would greatly limit what fan you can put on (Jegs is a great source for a fans). My AKG cooler came with a fan, rated at 17A, which is exactly what my GX630 will output. Of course I had this all planned out before fab work was even started. There are several different ways one can go. I always bring my generator with me as well, with some fans to stay cool and keep bugs away. One could have an AC fan installed to run off a generator. If you do put a fan on, and your engine's recharge is close or maybe just under rated, be sure to get a good size battery. I am using a deep cell, just in case I don't recharge the full 17A and the fan requires it, that way once the fan shut off (temp is cool enough) the engine will recharge the battery and should be fully charged by the time the temp rises.

All good ideas, just takes a little bit more to implement and things quickly can get complicated.

 

[sam-tip]

You could use a digital electric fan controller like I use on my kit car. It is a Spal. The new ones are programable for turn on temp and full speed temp. At turn on temp they run the fan at 50% I think. It uses pulse modulation to run the fan at variable speeds. Keeps the fan quite too. Plus they are very small. Only 2 x 3 inches in size. It should reduce your amp draw and keep down the noise while keeping the oil at a nice temp.

 

[Oldman47]

Dup post

 

[Oldman47]

what are you going to use for airflow through the cooler? I guess you could mount a fan but what will power the fan?

Mount the cooler so that vertical air flow will pass through it. By heating the air, the air will move and remove tons of heat for you. How do you get the needed air flow without a cooler?

 

[GM_Grimmy]

How do you get the needed air flow without a cooler?

A properly designed baffled tank to draw the oil long as possible, so the oil has time to dissipate heat.

 

[aokpops]

Really nice craftsmanship . The only thing I see is a weak 4 way .I use to rip my wedge off about every year or two . The first time or 2 I took to a welding shop ! I called the third time an would not weld it . I got lucky an found a old Lincoln buzz box pull out the stove to plug it in .I know nothing about welding I used 7016 rods by 1/8 just watching youtube videos made it work for 3 years .I rip it off this year I did a lot of bevel grinding bigger rod an more heat .

 

[Bighat]

At the point you are currently at, I'd suggest to use a temp meter and see what you actually have for fluid temps when operating once you get it operational. If you have access to a hand held temp meter that would maybe tell you what your course of action should be.

Another thing that has not been mentioned. Make sure you have a large line going back for the return into the tank. The bigger the better as you don't want foaming issues. Any baffle or dispersion tube in there? Your inlet/outlet holes can make a difference in both locations and sizes. Bottom line, avoid neck downs.

Plan on using the temp gauge and I even may order the dump valve. I just had to have surgery the other day so my plans for completing the splitter will be about a month behind schedule.

 

[Bighat]

Really nice craftsmanship . The only thing I see is a weak 4 way .I use to rip my wedge off about every year or two . The first time or 2 I took to a welding shop ! I called the third time an would not weld it . I got lucky an found a old Lincoln buzz box pull out the stove to plug it in .I know nothing about welding I used 7016 rods by 1/8 just watching youtube videos made it work for 3 years .I rip it off this year I did a lot of bevel grinding bigger rod an more heat .

Anything can break, we V'd the wedges and welded them with a big welder and 7018 rod. The guy welding is good, he's a retired boiler maker and he burnt it in as good as he could. Not saying I won't break it off, but I hope not. If I do break it off I have another idea for mounting the the device which would make it more like a slide on unit.

 

[Bighat]

At the point you are currently at, I'd suggest to use a temp meter and see what you actually have for fluid temps when operating once you get it operational. If you have access to a hand held temp meter that would maybe tell you what your course of action should be.

Another thing that has not been mentioned. Make sure you have a large line going back for the return into the tank. The bigger the better as you don't want foaming issues. Any baffle or dispersion tube in there? Your inlet/outlet holes can make a difference in both locations and sizes. Bottom line, avoid neck downs.

I'm going to add a temp gauge and use 1 1/4" line to the return on the tank. No baffle system in the tank. I thought about it but but I think I'm going to try it out first and see how it does.

 

[Bighat]

You will be over loading the crap out of your valve which creates heat. For what it's worth, I would just get the dump valve to start out with, and plumb it in. You could always cap the pilot and run some tests, see how things go, and then hook it up. My splitter was just finished being built and tested, and I have to run one, as I have up to 64 GPM on the return stroke (5" bore, 3.75" rod, 24" stroke). It helps keep the oil cooler as well. I have an oil cooler on mine to help with oil temps though. I'm sure pics will be posted soon.

Anyways, I would suggest the dump valve. With that rod diameter, it's a must. Heck on a lot of 22 gpm units, a dump valve should be used, according to the math and ratings of the valves.

Well, you guys talked me into it, I ordered the dump valve the other day. When the dump valve arrives, we're going to plumb this thing.

 

[Bighat]

I have to agree with the above suggestions given. It will get hot with 1/2" lines and the flow you will have on the return it will really be fast. I'm running a 28 GPM pump with all 3/4 ports on valves and cylinder, bypass valve and long sweep 90 where I had to put a few and it gets pretty warm. It does not take long either as that fluid is moving. Compound that with smaller ports and 90's and you make it worse. I'm assuming the port on your valve is 1/2" as well? With my set up it is a little over 8 seconds on push and 6 seconds on return with a 24" stroke. That is a 5" bore, 2 1/2" rod Prince cylinder. I'm running a 30 gallon tank too. You're moving a lot of fluid through smaller orifices so what I'm saying is be aware of it.

Watch your back mount on the cylinder too, I'm overkill but a little more weld surface goes a long way back there. I'd suggest some gussets but you have it painted now. With just a 2 way you'd be normally okay. The 4 way will put a lot of stress back there.

I took a look at that truck you built, I want it. I seen a 1948 powerwagon in a magazine when I was young and never got it out of my mind. It was all redone, orange and black with a 427 chevy and blower on it. You've got a nice truck.

 

[Kevin in Ohio]

I'm going to add a temp gauge and use 1 1/4" line to the return on the tank. No baffle system in the tank. I thought about it but but I think I'm going to try it out first and see how it does.

You might be okay depending on where the inlet and return are pointing. If they are at each other it may become a problem. There is a fine line to diverting flow and not restricting it which will just increase heat/foam issues.

I love old Dodge 4x4's have another 1/2 ton military like the one pictured that I will do stock. Have a '61 WM300 ,(same basic cab and look) that I will do basically stock too. Haven't started yet but they are here at least. I remember agent orange and it was a '41 like mine. it had a 396 with dual 4's. It was in Four Wheeler years ago.

I took my truck to the Iowa rally last year and here is a video of all the trucks that were there. good times.

 

[Bighat]

Just got this thing plumbed. What a job. Nothing's easy. Still got some tie up of hoses and and some support bracing to install. Added some pictures of the plumbing job. It looks like a mess right now but we'll pretty it some. I added the dump valve. Everything moves as suppose too. Can't wait till I heal up a little bit and I'll try this thing out.

 

[GM_Grimmy]

Good job! That dump valve will help tremendously!! It can get a little wonky to plumb, but it's function is something that can't really be seen......but your temps will be a lot different, by using the dump valve. Be sure to get a video of how thins work and post!

 

[dave_dj1]

Very nice splitter!

 

[Bighat]

I'm sorry it took so long for me to get back on the forum but I had some health problems I had to take care of. I haven't got a video yet, but I will as soon as possible. I did get all my wood split and I can tell you it works GREAT. I loaned it to a friend of mine which doesn't burn as much as I do. He the logs cut up and ready and he and his son split all the wood for one winter in 3 1/2 hours. Not bad.