Bar and Chain Oil!

[RandyMac]

what are you a school teacher lol as a complete unit not a hole in the ground but you knew that

Nope, never taught school, I have given out a few lessons to culls.

 

[Bwildered]

The holy grail of B&C oil is the % of "Tackifier " the purpose to make it stick like the proverbial S**te to the blanket the more it clings the better job it does Our tame oil supply guys supply extra "Tacifier for us to mix as required dependent on the job requirement we've found with the mechanical handling machine the use of extra goo up to around an extra 3% the lower wear rate on bar & chain is quite marked

You blokes have been sucked in by the marketing hype, using any oil makes vertually no difference to chain wear , as in the chain will outlast its sharpening life easily, secondly the rails on the bar will out last the sprocket tips, they wear down quicker than the rails & when that happens the whole bar & if it has a replaceable tip has to be scrapped as by the time it happens the rails have been dressed down & there will be a step up to the new tip because of the difference from the worn bar to the new tip.
Thanski

 

[Bobby Kirbos]

 

[RandyMac]

 

[Beetlejuice]

I don't think this qualifys as drain oil anymore. And I started this whole (hole) debacle.

 

[Little Al]

Little AL, I believe everything you've said to be true. And I do notice a difference in chain performance. Not so much on the bar. I take care of my bar, but abuse the hell out of the chain. What I'm trying" unsuccessfully " to get across is $30 for bar oil. An earlier post ran cheap quarts of motor oil. This I did after giving up the $15 bar oil. That knocked it down to $11-$14.. My local maker sells loops for my 24 inch bar at just about $30.. Discounted if I'm nice.. Have yet to get the discount price.. Go figure.. It's a trade-off to me. Free oil, new chain.,,$10-$15 gal., oil-new chain after what? Say, 10 gallons? I all depends.. I really like to see if I can saw through iron for some reason. Basketball hoops, horse shoes, railroad spikes, fencing, and the like...my next experiment is seeing if I can barrel through a metal detector. So, what works for me is totally taboo for other people.. Other people being the PROs. I am not a pro by a long shot, and will not become a pro.. I hope to just keep getting better and leave nothing behind when I go, as in, fingers, toes, arms and legs. Only legacy I will.leave I hope is a bad memory and rotten taste in everybody's mouth.

You don't leave a nasty taste in my mouth It's your kit & your call & your cash when requirements are needed we cut wood to try to make a living/money so if we /me can help with info & performance of various brand partsthat is the aim if guys have a different take & wish to put forward their thoughts it's good all knowledge is good some you can use some is not correct to your thinking then it can be discounted solong as the different views don't get rude or nasty long may it contiue

 

[Little Al]

I don't think this qualifys as drain oil anymore. And I started this whole (hole) debacle.View attachment 649668

Ah' a failed Rumanian taxi

 

[Canyon Angler]

I don't think this qualifys as drain oil anymore. And I started this whole (hole) debacle.View attachment 649668

Good thing you had a scattershield on that bellhousing when things started to go sideways!

I guess this kinda goes for the whole thread...

 

[windthrown]

WE are a Stihl Dealer, we sell the good Stihl Bar & chain oil in the silver jug for $18.95 a gal, If you are paying $28 your Dealer is way too high

To me, $18.95 is stilhl WAY TOO HIGH. Canola all the way for me baby. Great for making french fries as well. No slinging toxic oil around either.

 

[windthrown]

Dear Mr 2dogs ****ing.. You sir, are an idiot!!. If you believe for just a fraction of a second that drain oil causes cancer, or is even a cousin of a carcinogen then idiot is way too kind. We would be lubricating all our machinery with Wesson's veggie oil, or a reasonable facsimile and there wouldn't be a fossil product on any shelves, ANYWHERE!!!!. Put your HOLLIER THAN THOU attitude in your pocket and think about the **** ya write before putting pen to paper, and foot in mouth. I would have thunk that at our ages we knew better than to argue over the net, and at long distance. Will old fools never learn

So says Mr. Toxic. BJ, in your holier than thou state what you are doing is ILLEGAL as all **** using drain oil in a chainsaw for bar oil. What part of "dangerous waste regulations" do you not comprehend? Don't let your state know what you are doing... oops, looks like you already have.

From the Washington State Department of Ecology:

We have different requirements for managing used oil and waste oil. While used oil is a recyclable commodity, waste oil must be handled by a permitted treatment, storage, and disposal facility in accordance with the dangerous waste regulations.

 

[Ted Jenkins]

I remember many years ago in Washington and Idaho contractors spreading thousands upon thousands of gallons of oil on dirt roads during the summer to keep the dust from choking the life out of every body. The lakes and surrounding areas effected are still nice places today. It does not matter in any shape or form what kind of oil is used to lubricate ones chain saw chain. The fact is if the forested areas are not keep thinned out from extra fuel loads the fuel will decompose causing plenty of extra CO2 being spewed out in the atmosphere. With that in mind the amount of machinery that will be required to chip log or burn said fuels will out way any small amount of contamination that some puny amount of chain lubricate. Thanks

 

[grizz55chev]

How do you eat an elephant? One bite at a time.

 

[KiwiBro]

To me, $18.95 is stilhl WAY TOO HIGH. Canola all the way for me baby. Great for making french fries as well. No slinging toxic oil around either.

There's a nearby clearance outlet flicking off close or passed best-by/use by date products. Sometimes they have canola oil at US$6.60 a gallon. I've a nice stockpile in the shed now.

 

[dmb2613]

I like the Stihl bar oil. But I do get it at cost , but I would use any cheap bar oil before I would use canola oil.
WE have a few people that have moved down here that use canola, they buy a lot of bars and chains

 

[KiwiBro]

I like the Stihl bar oil. But I do get it at cost , but I would use any cheap bar oil before I would use canola oil.
WE have a few people that have moved down here that use canola, they buy a lot of bars and chains

Do you know how much cutting they are doing, in what conditions? I've not seen any increase in wear I could attribute to canola oil. I also checked bar temps with a heat gun. Bars stayed the same or cooler with canola. Also cooler sans paint.

That said, there was a study I read recently (but can't put my mouse on it - perhaps someone else can find it online?) and I don't think they found any statistically significant difference in bar temps between the oils they chose to test. One was what they called vegetable oil but I've no idea if it was canola or if they tested straight canola.

 

[Huskybill]

My local Husqvarna dealer has a 55 gallon drum of bar oil with a hand pump he sells it by the gallon. It’s the cheaper so far unless I use drain oil. Never a problem with drain oil but the chain and bar will wear quicker. But I’m running new oil. I have many gallons of Mobil delvac 15/40wt. It’s $10 a gallon. If I was still in the business I’d go for a 55 gallon drum of bar oil.

 

[Bwildered]

Do you know how much cutting they are doing, in what conditions? I've not seen any increase in wear I could attribute to canola oil. I also checked bar temps with a heat gun. Bars stayed the same or cooler with canola. Also cooler sans paint.

That said, there was a study I read recently (but can't put my mouse on it - perhaps someone else can find it online?) and I don't think they found any statistically significant difference in bar temps between the oils they chose to test. One was what they called vegetable oil but I've no idea if it was canola or if they tested straight canola.

The main thing is that it is oil of some sort, as far as bar wear I can't comment between bar oil & plain engine oil because I've never bought or used bar oil, saying that I've got a bar that would have at least 500hrs on it using new engine oil & it's nowhere near worn out yet.
I'd be happy to use anything but definitely not used engine oil as that is a proven carcinogen, there was thousands apon thousands of litres of oil buried in the bush from when oil changes on machinery in logging operations were dropped into a trench dozed in the ground & then covered up, soil microbes quickly digest oil as found out in the Exxon Valdez oil spill , not to say everyone should be spraying oil everywhere but the environment can cope with microscopic amounts such as bar lube absorbed into sawdust very easily,

 

[Huskybill]

The last bar oil I purchased was from NAPA it was cheap.

For cutting in the winter I was thinning the bar oil with kerosene.

Is there a green friendly bar oil?

 

[Skeans]

I’m sure there’s a green version but most European machines are now running a grease system I’d be interested to see how that would do for wear.


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[pferdfiler]

Save-a-Chain is the best up here in NY