Bar & Chain selection for Husqvarna 550 XP

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sbeckwith

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I have a question on the proper bar/chain setup for what I am doing with my chainsaw.

- I have a Husqvarna 550 XP saw
- I cut mostly hardwood firewood that has been delivered by the tri-axle load, so there is some dirt in the bark from the logging operation.
- I have become interested in the faster potential cutting speeds of the Narrow Kerf saw chains and have ordered WOODLANDPRO 18" N-KERF COMBO (.325 X .050)


* I purchased this bar/chain set-up due to the potential increase in speed of cut and the narrow radius potentially holding up longer with the wood I am cutting.


- Is this thinking correct or should I be looking at the 3/8 95VPX chain for the 550 XP?

- What Pin size should I be looking at for the .325
- What Pin size should I be looking at if I move to the .375?


* Also – really looking hard at doing the muffler mod found here on the forms. Love the saw and do not want to screw it up though.


Thanks for all of the advice in advance
 
The 95vpx is the same pitch as your woodland pro nk chain and will work on the same bar. I use the standard kerf .325 chain on my 550 and usually run chisel chain. You could also run 20bpx or 23rm3 or the carlton version if you want to run semi-chisel chain. The semi-chisel won't cut as fast, but shouldn't dull as fast either. I would run 7 pin myself.
 
Now that you have a .325 bar and chain, you are going to need to change the drive sprocket over to a .325 pitch from the original 3/8 pitch. If you expect the saw to always be lightly loaded, you could probably get away with an 8 pin sprocket.
 
I have a question on the proper bar/chain setup for what I am doing with my chainsaw.

- I have a Husqvarna 550 XP saw
- I cut mostly hardwood firewood that has been delivered by the tri-axle load, so there is some dirt in the bark from the logging operation.
- I have become interested in the faster potential cutting speeds of the Narrow Kerf saw chains and have ordered WOODLANDPRO 18" N-KERF COMBO (.325 X .050)


* I purchased this bar/chain set-up due to the potential increase in speed of cut and the narrow radius potentially holding up longer with the wood I am cutting.


- Is this thinking correct or should I be looking at the 3/8 95VPX chain for the 550 XP?

- What Pin size should I be looking at for the .325
- What Pin size should I be looking at if I move to the .375?


* Also – really looking hard at doing the muffler mod found here on the forms. Love the saw and do not want to screw it up though.


Thanks for all of the advice in advance

3/8 95VPX chain is doesn't exist.
95VPX chain is .325.
 
Best I can say is try it and see what you think. Sometimes the .325NK seems to work well making good chips when not even real sharp and sometimes it stretches or wears at the pins so frequent adjustment is needed and it kind of digs in too much and gets stuck. I think I like the Oregon version better.

As for the dirt in the bark of you log truck of wood. The most important thing is not to cut it when the dirt is frozen, that is essentially a rock. Try and cut so the chain is leaving the work so the dirt is not pulled through just pulled off. Make your own decision as to the plunge cutting properties of the NK chain in order to maximize this technique in the dirtiest wood you have. It seems there is a bit less metal in a tooth than regular 0.325 hence less strokes with a file (if that is how you sharpen) seem to be needled for comparable dullness. Contrary to the instructions the NK chain worked well on a "medium" size hard nose bar.
 
Woodland pro semi chisel is good holds a nice edge in trashy conditions for what you do I'd avoid full chisel I think your setup will be good as stated get the correct rim sprocket for your chain and go cut I have a 346 which the 550 replaced I run standard .325 50 18" works for me
 
Honestly I'd say you are overthinking it but since you already purchased the new bar and chain I'm interested to see the comparison.

I personally would suggest Stihl semi chisel on your standard setup. Their chain costs more but you will get over double the mileage compared to the other major brands if you stay out of the rocks.
 
I showed a guy how much slower that narrow kerf stuff was on a 346 compared to 3/8. The saw left with full 3/8. As did my 550 545. ;)
At what point, in your opinion, is 3/8 "too much" for lower hp saws?

I was planning to run .325 on my 350 when I get it running but it sure would be nice to run 3/8 so I could swap between the rest of my saws.
 
At what point, in your opinion, is 3/8 "too much" for lower hp saws?

I was planning to run .325 on my 350 when I get it running but it sure would be nice to run 3/8 so I could swap between the rest of my saws.

You and the saw will know ;). No formula to it. I had a stock 490 that didnt have the balls to pull 3/8. So it was a 325 saw. ;) Then there was stock 490 5000 saws that was better with 3/8.
Just like the stock OE 46cc 346 is much happier with 325. But ported right it loved the 3/8. The NE 346 loves 3/8 as did the 545 550 over 325.
Now I am talking bucking cuts. Smoother for limbing etc 325.
 
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