Gypo Logger
Timber Baron
I'm pretty sure a legal payload for that truck and pup is 70 tons.I'm always amazed how heavy you guys can run. Our loads are literally half that.
I'm pretty sure a legal payload for that truck and pup is 70 tons.I'm always amazed how heavy you guys can run. Our loads are literally half that.
Its hard to tell from the picture what grade or size the log is, but it looks worth setting aside. Yes, those deer stands can really mess up a good tree and chain.Gypo, I took a look at my pics because I thought the log might be in one of the pics. It's just at the right edge in this pic 2nd log in. I'm guessing 16" dia maybe, I'll get a few better pics next time I'm in that section. There is a couple of nice straight beauties back there but not mine to cut. Well until they fall on the ground that is. Last bush I logged in had a bunch of cherry that the loggers refused to take. Some idiot hunter years ago decided that 14" cherry trees are great trees to deer hunt out of. He did at least 10 trees that we found. He used lag bolts and 3" lengths of angle iron for tree climbing steps. Only inch or 2 of the steel sticking out. He even went up 30' for some stupid reason. I cut them up for firewood and ruining a couple of chains. View attachment 550610
My guess is that the tree had vertical fractures in the trunk, possibly due to lightning.
Was just wondering how things may have been different if he had sawn in his cuts at 90 degrees from any seams in the trunk as opposed to parallel to them? Regardless, I'd never go near that one, as it looked like a den tree for critters and good loggers always leave den trees for wildlife. LolI would have cut the low side about halfway from hinge back and then got on the high side instead of walking it around. From the high side of the hinge cut and walk it back leaving a tab in the back to keep it on the stump. Get rid of as much compression wood as possible before releasing.
I don't think he had a Dutchman in there. Just the bark marked. Right around 1:07 the tree pops. He should have stopped then and cut from the hinge back on the high side. If it was already moving too fast then he should have bailed sooner because it was already a lost cause.
View attachment 551120 We haven't heard from Cantoo in almost 24 hrs. I hope he didn't chair a cherry.
Just waxing philosophical for a bit, I don't think most people understand the dynamics of a dutchman or what really causes a tree to chair.
So I have drawn two diagrams to try to explain the most common mistake that is made that adds to the chances of a tree chairing.
When we cut in our undercut, it is best to cut the angular cut first, as any overcut (kerf) will be left in the stump causing little or no effect. This makes it easier to cut an accurate horizontal cut without leaving a dutchman ( unintentional kerf) as shown in figure A.
In figure B an overcut is shown (unintentional). When the backcut is sawn in, that overcut closes first , causing tremendous tension and the possibility of a chair or in the least, difficult or impossible wedging.
Hope my diagram is self explanatory.
Any thoughts or additional explanations?
Very true!I agree with the fact that the Dutchman on the under cut is bad. On the angular it's better. Still not what we strive for. The whole point of your notch is for everything to line up. The angular Dutchman is more forgiving but still not textbook.
Its good to know that our discussion here may save life and limb as well as some wood fibre.
Lol, join the club, no two stumps of mine are the same and most of my trees have some sort of dutchman, but I make up for some of my stupid mistakes with a fast saw, fast reflexes, nerves of steel, and a well defined escape route. LolMy knowledge has increased about 1000% since I joined AS but I still cannot make a straight vertical or horizontal cut to save my soul! Proved it again today bucking a red elm. Will I get laughed at if I take a framing square and a level to the woods with me? LOL