Barberchairing Hard Maple

[JustplainDave]

Hey all. I've had two different limbs, in two different hard maple trees, barberchair/split on me in the past month or so. The one I can understand, small notch, trying to pull it opposite lean, cut it slow to let it swing, etc etc. But, I was still surprised it split as badly, and as quickly as it did. It was a garbage branch, on a garbage job I didn't care about, nothing to damage underneath it, just wanted it to hinge over to a better spot to come down.

Second one was a fairly heavy leaner, that was leaning into a spruce/cedar, big notch, cut it slow to let it hinge over, in the direction it was leaning. Barberchaired fast, and got hung up.

Is this "usual"? I realize that's a pretty blanket question to ask, but I've cut a LOT of hard maple as a logger, and wouldn't be TOO wary of a hard maple barberchairing. Ash or hickory, cold weather, sure. We usually cut hard maple off the stump so it doesn't pull the heart, maybe that's why I'm not aware of hard maple tending to split.

Just trying to learn. Two close calls with the same type of tree is telling me I need to change how I approach that type of tree.

Thanks!!

 

[B Harrison]

The guy I call with questions explained things to me very well in regards to subjects such as this. Terry said, always plan and take precautions hoping for the best result, but never stop expecting the worst result. Trees, especially diseased or dead trees are a unpredictable thing sometimes, its why we try to learn from each other and constantly examine new techniques and equipment. To learn and get more efficient and safer in our fields.

 

[BuckmasterStumpGrinding]

It sounds like you have the recipe for a barber chair figured out.
1. Heavy leaner
2. Too much holding wood.

If you cut heavy leaners slow enough, and stop at the first sign of movement, you should be able to get them to chair on a regular basis.
Try cutting a T-shaped hinge so the back cut can go faster.

 

[TC262]

It sounds like you have the recipe for a barber chair figured out.
1. Heavy leaner
2. Too much holding wood.

If you cut heavy leaners slow enough, and stop at the first sign of movement, you should be able to get them to chair on a regular basis.
Try cutting a T-shaped hinge so the back cut can go faster.

Or I prefer to plunge cut. You can take your time setting up your holding wood then go back and quickly take off the back strap.

 

[BC WetCoast]

I think your problem was cutting it slow. Many species will do this, especially if they are heavily tip weighted.

If it is a branch, then it may not be large enough to allow for a plunge cut.

Do a search on this site (or the Commercial forum) for the Coos Bay cut.

 

[BuckmasterStumpGrinding]

I searched the coos bay cut and didn't come up with much. The pictures and videos were broken. The one youtube video I saw was some guy shaving something like a face cut until the tree fell. The comments said that it was not a coos bay cut though.

 

[BC WetCoast]

Daniel Murphy talked about it. Essentially you make two cuts from the side perpendicular to the lean leaving a strip of wood in line with the lean down the middle. You then cut from the back. The way I remember it described, you don't use a face cut as the branch already knows where it is going. I've also seen variations where a face cut was made, then the 'back corners were removed' then the backcut made. All methods are to speed up the cut to prevent the barberchair.

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/used-a-coos-bay-in-a-tree-today.81863/#post-1241652

 

[BuckmasterStumpGrinding]

I just realized you were talking about branches and not the whole tree. If you are roping them over or around your guys might be pulling too hard. Let the branch set back on the saw until it bogs down a little and have your guys ease into the pull to open the kerf.

 

[TC262]

I just realized you were talking about branches and not the whole tree. If you are roping them over or around your guys might be pulling too hard. Let the branch set back on the saw until it bogs down a little and have your guys ease into the pull to open the kerf.

Yeah I completely missed the branch part too

 

[old_soul]

Hey all. I've had two different limbs, in two different hard maple trees, barberchair/split on me in the past month or so. The one I can understand, small notch, trying to pull it opposite lean, cut it slow to let it swing, etc etc. But, I was still surprised it split as badly, and as quickly as it did. It was a garbage branch, on a garbage job I didn't care about, nothing to damage underneath it, just wanted it to hinge over to a better spot to come down.

Second one was a fairly heavy leaner, that was leaning into a spruce/cedar, big notch, cut it slow to let it hinge over, in the direction it was leaning. Barberchaired fast, and got hung up.

Is this "usual"? I realize that's a pretty blanket question to ask, but I've cut a LOT of hard maple as a logger, and wouldn't be TOO wary of a hard maple barberchairing. Ash or hickory, cold weather, sure. We usually cut hard maple off the stump so it doesn't pull the heart, maybe that's why I'm not aware of hard maple tending to split.

Just trying to learn. Two close calls with the same type of tree is telling me I need to change how I approach that type of tree.

Thanks!!

You talking sugar maples? Norways? I have noticed the same thing with the straight grained trees. Also there is always so much weight hanging off the ends of these type trees. Makes it hard to get it to swing and hold the hinge.

 

[TheJollyLogger]

Limbs. Horizontal? Leaders? Totally different cuts up in the tree. More info needed.

 

[beastmaster]

Try undercutting them first then blast throu the top cut, above or right behind the undercut. Maybe taking them in two cuts, first one out further, then finish the cut closer to the tree. If its a real long and heavy branch on hard wood, it'll want to split, just be ready for it and don't let it hit you. After it splits cut the whole thing off behind the split.